Barack Obama linked 2nd gen. SAS

[IZwack]

Don't you lose your speed-o then? I plan to just run right through it and pull the fuse..

The speedometer's reading is normally taken from the RABS (for future readers, this only applies to 98 and up Explorers) - but the GM 14-bolt didnt come with a tone ring so per say, I've already lost my speedo by switching to the 14-bolt.

The current solution in mind is to fab a tone ring and put it at the transfer case's rear output shaft, integrated along with the tranfser case E-brake.

 

[Stic-o]

The speedometer's reading is normally taken from the RABS (for future readers, this only applies to 98 and up Explorers) - but the GM 14-bolt didnt come with a tone ring so per say, I've already lost my speedo by switching to the 14-bolt.

The current solution in mind is to fab a tone ring and put it at the transfer case's rear output shaft, integrated along with the tranfser case E-brake.

Yeah I know abnout the tone ring, That's why I went to a full width 8.8.. I guess if you get the rotation speed right, it would work.

The reason why I said that, was I know Jefe went through this, I remember him saying something about the ABS box also being active in the speedometer system. That' why he left his in.

 

[Turdle]

deeewd

 

[IZwack]

The reason why I said that, was I know Jefe went through this, I remember him saying something about the ABS box also being active in the speedometer system. That' why he left his in.

Oh really? Thats interesting - thanks for the insight.
I may have to keep it at hand then We'll see though

 

[expo5.0]

what special tools do you need to run new lines to bypass that abs unit then?

what i'm hearing is that on a pre-98 there are no other issues? i researched this for like a month about 2 yrs ago and basically gave up.

thanks again

-drew

 

[IZwack]

what special tools do you need to run new lines to bypass that abs unit then?-drew

Typically you just need a flare tool and optionally a small bender to bend the brake lines. The flare tool is of course used to flare your new brake lines. The bender is optional as some people prefer to just carefully bend the new lines with their hands. However I'd say its required if your doing tight bends as doing tight bends by hand causes kinks.

Harbor Freight has the flare tool for a little under $15.00 and the bender is typically around $8.00

Bender: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=3755

Flare Tool: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=40878

 

[expo5.0]

will i have to replace a lot of fluid?

 

[IZwack]

will i have to replace a lot of fluid?

Should be a moderate amount cauz your opening the lines way upstream and away from the bleed screws so potentially you have to flush all the fluid since the ABS controller is just a few inches away from the master cylinder - so any air bubbles near the ABS controller must be removed.

 

[Kirby N.]

I ran into some issues when running my new front lines with my sas. Where they come out of the block on the frame rail it had a inverted type of flare. I went with my old line to the local vato zone and got some parts to adapt the line. I also remember something about them mixing metric and standard or something.

 

[IZwack]

Passenger side shock tower. The shock is turned in towards the engine at an aggressive angle to eliminate the tire from rubbing against the shock body at full stuff.

Panhard mount (axle side) along with the shock mount (the shock bolts to the small 1/2 inch hole on the upper left):

Right now I'm in the process of building the driver's side shock tower and cross brace.

 

[zainyD]

I'm impressed by your fab work so far, keep it up!

 

[IZwack]

I'm impressed by your fab work so far, keep it up!

Thanks much

 

[section525]

Passenger side shock tower. The shock is turned in towards the engine at an aggressive angle to eliminate the tire from rubbing against the shock body at full stuff.

What's going to happen at full droop?

 

[IZwack]

What's going to happen at full droop?

LOL well those shocks are at full droop/extention, they arent mounted at the top yet - so they stick up way past where the top should be.

I think I need to order more steel tomorrow - I'm running out of 0.25" plate!!!

 

[Turdle]

Then the axle is actually going to be lower, in relation to the frame at full droop?

 

[IZwack]

Then the axle is actually going to be lower, in relation to the frame at full droop?

Neh - the axle will be where it is now relative to the chassis.
There is no weight compressing those shocks so they are at full extension.

And Kartek charged them with an unknown pressure of nitrogen (and unknown volume of oil) so I have no idea what the spring rate is. I'll have to let it down slowly with the jack after its ready to sit on its own and see how much it compresses - I can then calculate the spring rate from that. I did use the Excell file from the tech bay section of Pirate to calcualte how much volume of nitrogen (and oil) I need to support each corner - so I do have a general idea of where to start as far as volumes goes.

 

[Turdle]

OK
I am seriously admiring the fab work, so excuse me for butting in,
I know nothing about this.
From the picture though, it seems the front axle will hit the frame , before the shock travel is even nearly maxed??? like the travel could be greater?
Im not looking right at it though,


but I am looking, and dreaming of someday

 

[IZwack]

OK
I am seriously admiring the fab work, so excuse me for butting in,
I know nothing about this.
From the picture though, it seems the front axle will hit the frame , before the shock travel is even nearly maxed??? like the travel could be greater?
Im not looking right at it though,


but I am looking, and dreaming of someday

Please do butt in This whole thread is about chit-chat .... kind of like girl talk time.

But as for the shock and maxing out -- dont forget that the shock body (the larger upper half) will slide down about 9 inches once weight (and proper nitrogen and oil volume) is set on it. That gives the suspension about 9 inches of down travel

 

[Blee1099]

I think I need to order more steel tomorrow - I'm running out of 0.25" plate!!!

How much do you need?

 

[IZwack]

How much do you need?

Not much - maybe 6" wide by 16" long - that should be about enough to finish the project. I have a little bit more of 3/16" plate so I'll revert to 3/16" for things like the transmission mount.

I have to drive down to Arlington tomorrow (for work) so I'm going to try to stop by Potomac Steel in Springfield. If not, I'll go to the shop thats about 10 mins from my house (its just their stock isnt as clean and fresh as Potomac Steel's stock)