cage building party

[Stic-o]

I already have a bunch of the pre-punched plates from IMS. They're about 4"x4" with four bolt holes punched in the corners. I imagine I grabbed 16 to bolt an 8 point cage in through the floor.

Yeah That's the ones I was thinking of.

 

[R.J.]

i wanna cage

 

[Jefe]

Yeah That's the ones I was thinking of.

I grabbed them just before steel prices shot up. Unfortunately I didn't grab all the tube then.

Anyone have an idea of what a 20' stick goes for these days?

 

[RockRanger]

Matt, what was you'r thoughts on floor plates? Pre-made or making our own? Also our we welding or bolting through the floor? I know IMS had premade floor plates I think, but can't remember how much there are. BTF has some too, but at $8 bucks each!

I was thinking the pre made plates from like IMS. I was thinking that we should concentrate mostly on doing the interior parts when we get together. Frame tie ins can be done at another time and are easier to do individually. Trying to bend a 20ft tube by your self sucks. Especally when you get into doing complex bends. I plan on bolting mine in then come back later and do the frame tie ins.

How complex is everyone thinking of getting? I wasnt plannig on getting as crazy as the one that chris posted pics of. I am thinking something like what fakrwee has. If people are wanting seat tie ins and everything else we would be spending a full weekend on just one person. I am thinking just doing the pillers and a few braces from hoop to hoop. Maybe a diagnal behind the seats and thats about it. Anything more complex then that needs to be done by a shop or individually later on.

My idea was that because we all have rangers and explorers building the first one will take the most time. Once we have that one nailed down the next few will go fast as we will have the measurments and dimensions figured out. As long as everyone agrees on wanting the same design then it will go fast. If everyone wants a custom cage built differently then it wont work.

I am willing to bring my tools and help. Another thing is that I think each person should be responsable to weld their own cage up. I am not a pro welder and dont want the risk of welding other peoples cages. Each person has to be incharge of there design make the final call on what they do.

 

[RockRanger]

Anyone have an idea of what a 20' stick goes for these days?

About a month ago I got a 20ft stick of 1.75 .120 HREW for under $40 out the door. I didnt price anything else.

 

[Stic-o]

My idea was just 4 hoops at the A-D pilers tied together along the roof line, then a cross bracing in about the middle on A-C. Pretty simple. You can always add to it...just ask Rick! :

Another thing is that I think each person should be responsable to weld their own cage up.

I'm gonna Die!

 

[FAKRWEE]

Simple works. Here's a couple of shots of mine being installed.

 

[FAT CAT]

FYI

There is 104' of 1.75 .120 DOM tubing for sale on dezertrangers...

$365, don't know if it a good deal or not, but if it is;go get it!

http://dezertrangers.com/cgi-bin/ib/ikonboard.cgi?;act=ST;f=16;t=51957

 

[DB_1]

I have a basic idea of what I want but I'm still debating on how I want to do the dash area. If I could just get the 2 big hoops done then I can take it from there. I'm thinking B and C pillar hoops and then coming off the B pillar hoop into or around the dash somehow. I need to start measuring for the tube I'll need.

 

[JoshC]

I'm gonna Die!

ahahahahaha that's good!

 

[JoshC]

I know i have a different application with no cab but if i could help with any pictures i will.

 

[RockRanger]

I am thinking something like tom has. Do you have any more pictures of the a pillar?

 

[RockRanger]

I know i have a different application with no cab but if i could help with any pictures i will.

Your just a step ahead of me. Once the cab is ruined then it will get cut off. Then my inerior cage will become my roof.

 

[DB_1]

Found these universal mounting plates on the A&A mfg. site...4"x3"-3/16" thick with (4) 3/8" holes $2.45 ea.
http://www.aa-mfg.com/pdshop/shop/item.asp?itemid=995

I may end up making my own depending where the legs land. I know the space is pretty narrow where the C-pillar legs go on my truck.

 

[Jefe]

I don't need or want a jungle gym. Just a simple cage here. Much like Toms, but for 4 door.
B-pillar hoop, C-pillar hoop, pass and driver side A pillars, cross bar at top of windshield (and bottom if it can be out of the way?), angles from C-pillar to rear, roof ties between B and C hoops, and a couple of diagonals (1 behind front seats, 1 behind rear seats going opposite direction, 1 across roof) I'd draw it up, but I can't free-hand worth crap, and the only other way I know how is a full 3D CAD model. :

Gut interior except drivers seat and dash before hand, and all the hoops and pillars should go very quickly once one is done, all the straight tube even faster. I agree with the welding part too, perhaps we just tack everything together and let everyone weld another time on their own, or let them hire someone.

Now where are we going to do this? I'm positive that if we did it at John's his neighbor would go postal , so thats out. Sorry.

I'm gonna Die!

ROFL

Oh wait. . .thats not funny, 'cause its probably true. :

Are you and your dad still stuck on stick? I'm sure you could get some decent welds with a MIG and a little practice. However, welding tube is still difficult even in uncrowded conditions.

Found these universal mounting plates on the A&A mfg. site...4"x3"-3/16" thick with (4) 3/8" holes $2.45 ea.
http://www.aa-mfg.com/pdshop/shop/item.asp?itemid=995

Thats almost exactly what the IMS plates are, except square, and cheaper i believe. As for weld-in or bolt in, and whether to tie into the frame. . . I was opposed to the weld-in w/o frame tie-in on Toms, but i didn't see any deflection of the body and that was a couple of HARD hits and the cage obviously saved the A-pillar from crushing in. My original design was for bolt-through with no frame tie in. but I'm thinking I'll just weld the base plate in like Toms.

 

[Stic-o]

My thought was to bolt through the body and the frame tie in coming up to bolt to it. Weld to frame. The only reason I' would go with something with rounder corner for the floor plate vs. the sqaure ones, is I have heard of "can opener sydrome" in a roll the corners rip into the sheet metal like a can opener.

We still have a MIG, I have used it a few times, and actually I feel it's easier with it. I just haven't done much welding yet.

Jefe, we're you going to remove the headliner too? I'm guessing yes.

The other thing that worries me is the drivers A piller. I don't want the tube to get in the way of the headlight swich, or preventing me getting to the insterment cluster. My thought was to run down the side of the dash, but then the fuse boxs is in the way. Thoughts?


Maybe we can do a live web feed too like Colin's engine swap

 

[410Fortune]

toms cage tied into the floor only with no drops to the frame???????????????? just calrifying.
My cage will be built for a light roll, not for nascar but for the type of wheeling we do.....

I was pretty much planning on going through the floor directly to teh cage and also plating the BII cab to the frame and running solid mounts, but maybe this is overkill for my trucks use?

 

[tdavis]

Here's my 2cents on it..

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=136119

 

[FAKRWEE]

I've been searching my pics and here's a couple of more. We decided to weld it done versus bolting and reenforcing cause we figured in rock crawling rolls are slower and less violent.Exactly what happen to me. Brian has some close up fotos of the damage to the top. Hope's he post them, he's working this week.

First one is the spare mount tied into the cage.

 

[Burns]

Man I really want a cage bad. I like the one with the top cut all the way down the center and then caged all the way.