The Black Hole

[410Fortune]

6 quarts is enough usually takes 4.5-5 so 6 is perfect.

 

[gmanpaint]

Well, looky here! New server, new host, and we're back to bizz as normal! Considering what had to be done, that was pretty quick! Thanks to the Admins for taking care of us, once again! Will get some pictures uploaded once we're back to full swing, and the new server can handle it.

So, in the last week or so, I have been busy on this rig, trying to rectify the lack of power steering issue. Not the most fun of jobs on these rigs, so not much enjoyment was had. Wait, make that ZERO joy! lol

Last weekend, I pulled the recently installed Reman rack I purchased from Orielly auto in Colby KS, while on my way to CO. Stripped it of the mount bushings, and found the restriction valve in the correct port. I let the mechanic in KS know that too. He was sweating it a little I think, as he was relieved to here it. lol

I ordered that steering gear assembly I posted earlier last week, from my local Ford Dealership. They found it in Milwaukee, and had it shipped in. I picked it up yesterday. After opening up the giant plastic bag it was packed in, I found a shiny silver sticker on the body that said "ReManufactured" . Talk about being disgusted seeing that. I asked the parts guy at Ford, 3 separate times on 2 diff calls, and in person..... Why do they want a $200 core charge, on a brand new part? He simply said that's just how they do it. Yeah, OK buddy, now I know why. You sold me a reman as a new part. I really wanted to return that rack to Orielly, and get my $175 back. Well, not to fight it and add to my grief, I figured a reman by Ford using all Motorcraft parts is better than the remans I have been getting from the auto stores. I mean, it looked brand new, and 1000% better than those do. so I handed the rack over for the core charge.

So onto the install. I was told the engine needs lifted on the 5.0 to change this rack by a couple of people. I'm here to tell you, you don't have too, if you have a steel oil pan. After all the lines and cooler are removed, you can get to the rest. Remove the inner TRE's, then remove the oil filter, then the filter adapter to the block. Now you have a clear shot at the steering shaft bolt, and you now have room to lift the rack, and turn it forward 90*, to get the shaft output facing the front of the vehicle. Once in that position, simply push the entire rack out the passenger side hole above the LCA, enough to clear the dr side cross member. Pull the dr side forward to clear the cross member, and pull the entire rack out the dr side. I did this with my big skid plate in the way, and would have been easier without it there, but that opens a whole nother can of worms, so I left it alone. Reverse the process for the install.

Ok, so after an oil change, and the pump bottle filled with Mercon V, the engine is started and to see what we got. No leaks! So far so good.

Bled it by going lock to lock about 20 times, w/o the wheels on. Felt a bit rough, and not a smooth lock to lock. Bled it some more.

With the wheels back on, and still on stands, it felt a little rougher going lock to lock. Bled it some more.

With the rig back on the ground fully, it was about the same stiffness while turning the wheel, as it was before I did this rack swap. Pump was clicking away as soon as the steering wheel was moved, and had to really get some elbow grease involved to turn the wheels at all. Frustrated with it, I shut it down for the day.

Went back at it today, after thinking the steering system through last night. Thinking that 2 racks acting the same way, and with a new working pump, clear lines and clear cooler, what else could be the issue?

The CV axles, Ball joints, and the TRE's all have movement when the wheels are turned. Time to see if any of these are binding by some tests.

Jacked up the rig again, and left the tires on. Try the steering wheel with tires up, and yes, much easier, but still rough to turn. Ok, process of elimination!

Wheels turned fully to dr side, and removed the inner TRE. (Mine is easy with the Camburg units, as it's just a bolt thru a Heim at the racks ram. ) Turned the wheels again, and nothing changed. Same resistance. Everything on this side is fine. Put the TRE back on.

Wheels turned fully to Pass side, and removed the inner TRE. Turned the wheels again, and nothing changed. Same resistance. Everything on this side is fine.

Hmm!?!?! Ok, what gives here that I'm not seeing? I'm not the only one either. The mechanic in KS, and MrBoyle in CO, wasn't sure either.

So while the rig still up in the air, I bled it a bunch more. Must have gone lock to lock another 50 times. Arms are sore! Set it back down, and wheels turned a bit easier, and wasn't until about half way turned thru the cycle, that I got the hard resistance, and pump noise. Stopped right when that happened, as not to push it too hard.

Took it for a ride, and is much easier to turn while moving. I would say on a scale of 1-10, it's about a 7. Now here is something interesting... There is hardly any return to center on it. From a hard tight turn, it will return about halfway, then the wheel has to be turned by hand to get it centered. On a slight turn, nothing, no return at all. Weird sh*t man.

Ok, I explained this as best I could, and if anybody actually read all of this post, and understands what has been done, and has a good idea of something we're overlooking, please mention it! Thank you!

 

[410Fortune]

WHAT THE HECK
No pinched lines right? Fluid is flowing smoothly?
Is your steering column locking up?
Thinking out loud here......something MUST be binding

 

[vroomzoomboom]

body lift right? is the steering shaft rubbing the manifold?

 

[gmanpaint]

I know right? This rig gives me fits, and fights things, like no other rig does. It has an attitude for sure.

Fluids are flowing. With resi cap removed, I can see the pump working well. When in CO, Mike removed the high pressure line, ran the engine for a second, and the pump dumped the tank in an instant. I have no idea what kind of pressure the aftermarket pump builds when operating, and if it compares to stock line pressure or not.

Weird fact with the pump: When the rack blew the seals on the road, we had to drive it 14 miles from the truck stop to the mechanics shop. Power steering still worked fine, and wheel turned as it should. Nice & easy. The stiff resistance at the wheel, didn't happen until the new reman rack was installed. After the pump was replaced, it was the same, unless the rpm's was raised to 3k, and then the assist was at 50% or so. That only lasted about an hour, then had 0% assist the rest of the way to our destination. Something gave way on a trail, and assist returned to about 50%. Took it home like that. Now with the Ford rack installed, assist is a bit better, but not as it should be.

Steering column spins free as it should. With it disconnected from the rack, I tested it. No interference anywhere. It has the BL extension on it.

The resistance is in the system itself I think. The pump clicks away when the resistance is too much for it. This is why I tested the CV, TRE's, BJ's.

One thought is the belt might be spinning on the pulley, but I can't see that by myself. I need a helper to turn the wheel as I look. Pulley was swapped onto the new pump, but since I didn't replace the pump myself, I have no idea if there is any adjustment on it or not. Need to inspect this train of thought.

Another thought is the return hose wasn't tested, but the pump clearly shows it is cycling in the resi. Don't know if it is worth the effort to remove/replace the lines or not, but I just might anyways to rule them out.

 

[410Fortune]

there is no adjustment, the belt tensioner does all of the adjustment

Without a belt on the PS pump does the system turn back and forth with no resistance? or how does it steer without the engine running and front tires off the ground?? Wheel go lock to lock without much effort?

 

[gmanpaint]

Wheels turn easier off the ground, than on, but still fights it.

Belt was removed to see if the pump spun free or not, and it did. That's the extent of the belt off testing tho.

The perplexing thing is the resistance all began directly after the rack was replaced in KS. Nothing done since then has corrected it. The only things not replaced was the lines, and cooler. Cooler was blown out with air pressure, but I don't think anything was done to the lines. At least not that I can remember.

 

[traveler]

I was just thinking as I was reading the posts, "Any idea if the lines are flowing freely?". Could be some debris stuck in there. Can the lines be replaced?

 

[gmanpaint]

Just tried napa for new lines. No dice, they cant get them.

Will check rock auto next, but am currently on a roof, waiting on an insurance adjuster. Lol

 

[traveler]

If you can't get them, you may just have to remove them and blow them out, check for obstructions, and reinstall them. Or have a place that makes hydraulic lines create a set.

 

[gmanpaint]

Did the trans filter swap today. Barely spilled any doing it too. Reclaimed 4 quarts. After warming it up, it took 5 quarts to get it level on the HOT mark on the stick. No leaks. followed the Chilton instructions just to make sure, as this was the first pan drop for me on this model trans.

I found a guy selling Mercon V by the case (12 qts) for $68.65. $5.72/qt was too good a price to pass up on. I used 1 quart for the power steering work, and have 6 qts left. I will do another pan drop in the spring with it.

Amazon.com: Motorcraft XT5QMC Mercon V Automatic Transmission Fluid - Case of 12 Quarts: Automotive

Tomorrow is the Atlas, & rear axle fluids.

 

[CDW6212R]

That's very good, to not spill any is rare.

I've gotten used to dropping the pan without making a mess, but a drain plug would be nice. I don't like the kits to add a drain, the pans with a nice one in it are best.

The deep pan I got for my mail truck, ... it took 16 quarts to fill that one. I had the VB off for a day, and I drained the TC and my external filter, plus cooler. Try doing that once a year(I like the Amsoil to last much longer than that).

 

[vroomzoomboom]

Did the trans filter swap today. Barely spilled any doing it too. Reclaimed 4 quarts. After warming it up, it took 5 quarts to get it level on the HOT mark on the stick. No leaks. followed the Chilton instructions just to make sure, as this was the first pan drop for me on this model trans.

I found a guy selling Mercon V by the case (12 qts) for $68.65. $5.72/qt was too good a price to pass up on. I used 1 quart for the power steering work, and have 6 qts left. I will do another pan drop in the spring with it.

Amazon.com: Motorcraft XT5QMC Mercon V Automatic Transmission Fluid - Case of 12 Quarts: Automotive

Tomorrow is the Atlas, & rear axle fluids.

you didnt re use your old oil did you?

 

[gmanpaint]

Umm, nope.

Had 12 new qts.

Used 5 new qts in the trans.

Used 1 new qt for the steering.

Have 6 qts left for the 2nd pan drop in the future.

Have 4 old qts to be recycled at the station.

 

[gmanpaint]

Was going to order the new pump/rack lines this morning when I discovered my card was locked up.

Right before midnight, last night, the Ford dealership hit my debit card multiple times, at $368/ea. Put that account over.

Of course it's a weekend, and nobody there to talk to about it. Filed an online dispute as there is nobody available to talk to until Monday. Bad enough they sold me a reman, saying it was new, but to charge me multiple times for it too?

Someone is not going to like Gman, come Monday.

 

[410Fortune]

oh man I hate that crap!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Stupid bank cards.......... hang in there.
I love to wake up and see late fees for stuff that never happened, on a Sunday....................... ugh

 

[gmanpaint]

Atlas fluid change done today. Fluid wasn't bad really, but it wasn't that great either. Had about 4000 miles on it and been in there since fall of 2017, so it was time regardless. All I can say is one of the best shop tools I ever bought, was a good size transfer pump. 1 pint per plunge made fast, easy, & clean work for this job. Tube end fits snug, and stays put while working it.

So while I was working on this case, I decided to tackle one job I have been putting off forever. The shifter's.

Skid & front drive shaft came out to make room to reach the shift rod linkage. The little circlip retainers on these rods are a frigging nightmare for me to work with. Small tiny things, that disappear into the void if dropped, or they shoot off while removing. Only enough room to get one hand up there to them, and arm is all contorted, and can't see what your doing, makes this a pita to do. Well, for me at least.

With them off, and secured in a ziplock (so they don't run away), the linkage rods can be removed from the ends of the shifter's. 19mm nut holds the shifter tower on the threaded rod to the case. Tower separates from the tube spacer, by prying them apart, and the tower with shifters are free.

Ok, what am I doing here?

The front shifter (outboard) hits the back of my calf where it is located. Thought about this setup long and hard for a long time, and had an idea. I decided to give a try at changing it up.

The shift tower that holds both of these shifter's is set up that each bolt to the sides of it. A bolt goes thru the tower for each, and are offset from each other by about 2" or so.

The case is clocked with the dr side dropped for the front shaft. The shifting rods coming out of the case are stationary, and with the case at an angle, so are they, with one higher than the other. The shift tower is also offset where the shifters are bolted, but the shifter's are of equal length, with bolt holes located exactly in the same spot. To remedy this, AA puts a hard angle bend in one shifter, that is supposed to make them closer to the same height at the knobs after case clocking. But.... The end where that 19mm nut is allows the entire assembly to twist about 1/2", which translates to about 2" of movement at the tip of the shifter's.

Confused yet? Yeah, lots to wrap your head around when staring at these things in an disassembled state. I think only those that have worked on these, would truly understand these things, and even then, might have to take 2-3 whacks at it.



I had them mocked up to how AA showed them in the manual, but my console was in the way, for them to come up close to where a manual trans shifter would be ( to the left).
The shift tower had to be clocked outboard as far as it would go, to miss the console. That also reversed the shifter direction 180*. This put the front shifter into the back of my leg. They was even in height afterwards, but stuck out too far. I was thinking of just bending them, but wanted to try something first.

I removed the shifters from the tower, flipped the tower 180* around horizontally, and put the shifters back on. Remember I said the bolts was offset? So what this did was lower the front shifter, and raise the rear shifter. How? Because the case is clocked, and after clocking the tower, they are no longer compensating for that drop. So now, the front shifter is 2" lowered than before. Clears my leg...... almost.

I had some room for the inboard shifter to get closer to the console. Easy fix, just re-clock the tower, and moves them both inwards. Well, I still had room between the two shifter's. Lot's of room. Put the front shifter in the vise, and massaged it with a 4 ft pipe. Yep, ended up bending one of them anyways. LOL
I have about 3/8" between the knobs now. Tight as I want them together. Close enough that a finger won't get pinched, but far enough apart to work them without interference.

The end result is a go, I think. Still have to put the front shaft back on, and run it thru the gears to make sure it all works as should. (Cross the fingers everybody!)

Only bad thing that happened is the shift boot is all scrunched up, but it's a trade off I can live with.

Before

After

Of course this would only apply to those that have a center console, and I have a 3" body lift, but I found jackall on the webs about this, so maybe this helps someone, someday.

Ok, so now that this mod is almost done, I can now start thinking of how I can lower the Corbeau seat brackets 2", and get them back in this rig. Driving me crazy to see them bagged up in the basement.

 

[gmanpaint]

Today the Rear diff got the fluid changed. ARB break in period is completed. Got to see it in there for the first time. Meh, just a bunch of stuffs.

Ran a magnet in the valley. Fished out 2 tiny flakes of metal, about a pin head size. Was to be expected. Gear oil was dark gray from break in. New is green. Cleaned the re-useable gasket, and buttoned it back up. Refilled with the gear oil I purchased, from the shop that installed the ARB.

Had to adjust the rear Atlas shifter linkage rod. Wasn't engaging into low range all the way. 2 full turns out (longer throw) on the rod, did the trick. Skid plate was cleaned and installed.



For personal record: OD 182,055 miles on 9/21/2020

5.0L, Mobil 1 Filter & 5 qts Mobil 1 5w-30
Power steering rack swap. 1 qt Motorcraft Merc V
Napa Premium Trans filter/reuseable gasket, and 5 qts Motorcraft Merc V
Atlas II, 2 qts Redline MT-90
8.8, 2.5 qts Schaffer 214S / 80-140

D35 was topped off in KS at the repair shop on 9/24/2020 due to some boil over out the vent.
Power steering pump was replaced same date.


Ford Dealership says only one charge went thru as far as they can tell. Their bank says they might have an automatic "Pending" status still in effect, and to wait a couple of days for it to drop off. Bunch of BS if you ask me. Lesson learned, always pay cash at that stealership! Meanwhile auto payments are getting denied. Looks like I have to sit on hold for a few hours trying to talk to a human with the bank. Ok, slight exaggeration, but still, I shouldn't have too.

Not going to let it ruin my day, and just going to look at all the positives in my life, instead of dwelling on the negatives. Y'all have a great day!

 

[Brian1]

I can now start thinking of how I can lower the Corbeau seat brackets 2", and get them back in this rig. Driving me crazy to see them bagged up in the basement.

I had the same problem with my Corbeau brackets so I did a little chop cut and weld to them. Fairly straight-forward job, pretty sure I tacked them back together with them bolted in place and fully welded on the bench. These are the BII/91-Only brackets so yours will be a little different.

 

[gmanpaint]

Thanks Brian. Those are def different, but I see what you did. Same principle should apply.

Hope you pulled the carpet back before tacking them in place.