5.0 2to4wd 4406 and tons

[allmyEXes]

I just did a quick scan of your most recent 3 pages. Is that the F-150 4x4 leaf springs for the front? Looking good!

 

[Scotts96sploder]

@allmyEXes yes f150 springs up front with the large 18mm front eyes for some reason.
@97Sandbox the execution is going quickly because I spent years planning and collecting parts, reading and asking questions.
I’m about to cut and flip that pitman arm.

 

[allmyEXes]

@Scotts96sploder Look to see what is available for tractors as far as pitman arms go. Would it be weaker or stronger to have someone heat the pitman arm and use a press to change the shape a little instead of cutting and flipping? My next door to the shop farm/heavy truck neighbor has used the nickel welding rods alot. I made the mistake of using a nickel rod welding up an exhaust manifold mounting hole in a cylinder head to shift a hole a 1/4". I couldn't drill back into the nickel.
I've looked a little for a jeep type pitman arm that has a 3 to 4" drop 1-11/8" shaft to make up a 3"4" lift kit for a '67 Mustang convertible to build a "beach" Shelby vert. Much like Richard on "Fast and Loud" had in his collection.

 

[97Sandbox]

Would it be weaker or stronger to have someone heat the pitman arm and use a press to change the shape a little instead of cutting and flipping?

I bet it'd end up about the same. Whether from the torch or from welding, you'd end up with a hard spot in the bar. But as overbuilt as everything is, I wouldn't be too concerned about anything fatiguing/breaking more easily. I'd go with whatever seems easiest given available tools.

 

[allmyEXes]

I came across these stock straight CJ Jeep Pittman arms when I was looking for lift swap Pittman arms.
CJ Jeep stock Pittman arm

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Well I already did it. Cut, flip, grind way back, tack it in, check clearance, pre-heat, weld, back grind, weld that side. It’s slow cooling now, going to grind it smooth and tig weld some plates on the outside just to be safe, probably 3/16 with a bunch of rosettes.
The drag link is rubbing the rad hose at full stuff passenger lock. I still need to ream out the TRE hole a bit so that will make more room, and if it still rubs I’ll add a plate to protect it a bit.
Getting about 12” under each tire when flexed on opposite sides, and it’s contacting body, not on the bumps yet. Still slowly cutting away body. Pretty ok for a beach cruising mall crawler.

 

[DintDobbs]

That is one beautiful beast! Nice progress!

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Update and question:

So I didn’t notice till this morning but the TRE was hitting the lower rad hose and the link was contacting the passenger spring fairly hard, so I said Fugit and cut up the arm again. This time I gave it a 22.5° twist towards passenger and added a few more degrees of down. Got the reinforcement plates made and I’ll tig weld them on at work. Still getting a slight rub on the spring at full bump hard passenger and the TRE nut hit the driver spring at full bump slightly driver. I’m going to ignore it for now because I’m behind schedule.

Question:
I’m trying to cobble together some temporary power steering hoses. Plan is to make them with just barb fittings to get the length and fitting which I can then pull back out and take to the hydraulic hose shop. I probably don’t need to have a return one made but definitely the pressure side. The spec sheet says the box has 1/2x20 and 5/8x18, and the pump says it’s 16mm probably 1.0. Anyway, I tried a few random fittings that looked the same as the plugs and they don’t work. What type of fitting am I looking for?

 

[allmyEXes]

Purchase this 1979 F150 power steering pressure hose and have a hose shop splice the box half to you current high-pressure hose.
I have done this before. RockAuto hose info $10.11 + tax and $6.99 shipping.

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Purchase this 1979 F150 power steering pressure hose and have a hose shop splice the box half to you current high-pressure hose.
I have done this before. RockAuto hose info $10.11 + tax and $6.99 shipping.
View attachment 453895

That’s slick! I might even be able to just move the fitting over with a flair tool. I’m going to look into this. Great idea!

 

[allmyEXes]

Before you cut the pump end off, try it in the Explorer pump. My 1979 F100/150 has the "metric" C2 pump. Wouldn't it be nice if it happened to fit?
If it fits, you might be able to reshape the pump end metal line to make it fit whatever engine that you are using.
The $22 Edelmann 91956 has different length metal tubes. One of thse 4 or 5 listed ones might be better than the others.

 

[410Fortune]

I know some ford pitman arms are flat, no t sure about any that leave the box and go skyward

Put shackle at back of spring instead of front? Maybe help w spring interference. Trucks with shackle at back of spring handle the road better

Nevermind you already chopped and welded lol

 

[Scotts96sploder]

I know some ford pitman arms are flat, no t sure about any that leave the box and go skyward

Put shackle at back of spring instead of front? Maybe help w spring interference. Trucks with shackle at back of spring handle the road better

Nevermind you already chopped and welded lol

Yup, twice lol. Still not perfect, and I don’t care. Time to move on, “don’t get it right, get it running”. If I rebuild this again I’m doing a heim joint custom arm, which means I would need to rebuild the link. Maybe later, for now ima get this thing moving under its own power.

 

[allmyEXes]

It looks like your power steering box is as high as it will go.
Maybe later a 3 link?

 

[Scotts96sploder]

It looks like your power steering box is as high as it will go.
Maybe later a 3 link?

Yeah I’ve got a half ****ed plan for a cradle and double triangulated 4links front and rear with a pair of Dana60s on bags or ORIs. But for now, make this run. I probably won’t ever need anything more than what I’m already building because really it’s just a very capable mall crawler that’s gonna go to the beach and Ocala national forest here and there. It will probably see more hurricane flood water than trails if I’m completely honest lol

 

[410Fortune]

Whatever its purpose, she’s ready! I like it

 

[Scotts96sploder]

lol there’s that! It’s normal for it to curve a little, right? RIGHT?!?! lol

 

[allmyEXes]

Looking good. I like your table that you're using.
I see that you're in Jacksonville FL. I haven't been there since the early 1970's I have a great aunt there.
Most people don't realize how uniquely "southern" that the "big town", (almost a million people) of Jacksonville is. It's definitely NOT Miami. Lynyrd Skynyrd band is/was from there. Tom Petty. in the Mustang circles, everyone knows of "Mustang Masters".
Jacksonville FL all the way across to Mobile AL could have been part of Georgia and Alabama and everyone would have been ok with that. lol.

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Not-bushings for the engine crossmember. Going to use the factory front diff frame brackets and connect these with some kind of compound bent tube. Need somewhere to hang the hardline from so I’ll be getting this figured out soon.

 

[allmyEXes]

Here is a picture and link to an item to retrofit a Ford small block engine in to 1948 to 1956 Ford F100's. It might give you some ideas. The design goes back so many decades that the 1966 to 1968 Mustang small block rubber/steel engine mounts, (motor mounts) are used with it, and they are readily available. Mid fifties F-100s 302 cross-member kit.