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2003 Lariat Super Crew "Husker Larry"




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I have the crankshaft locating tool on the pin and key
IMG_20230626_195131302_BURST001.jpg


Cams at close to 11 o'clock right (passenger side)
IMG_20230626_193429758.jpg



and 12 o'clock on left side
IMG_20230626_193404144_HDR.jpg


So, I locked the cams in
IMG_20230626_193344131_HDR.jpg


I think I can start taking the tensioners and chains apart now correct?
 












good lord. i have done 2 timing chains on 4L sohc's on the stand and that was no fun. your doing this in the engine bay thats just as stuff'd in there or even worse. i bow down to you
 






Looking good. Tbh I don't use any timing tools on the 5.4 myself anymore. If you have the keyway on the crank at 12:00, usually you can take the chains off without the cams flopping. Since you have the tools you don't have to worry though. Make sure you replace the oil filter housing gasket if you haven't already, major common leak point. Make sure you lay out the guides as they come off. The tensioner guides look the same but they arnt, they are side specific. I also hit the timing marks with paint marker, makes it easier to see then lining things up.

Engine does look really good on the inside, no sludge / barely any tarnish. I'm sure you'll find the tensioner gaskets blown but the chain guides are all there. Honestly I'd skip doing the oil pump(since you have to remove oil pan on the ground). Main reason you pull the pan is because the plastic debris will clog up the pickup tube. Your's looks all there, probably just blown out tensioners is all your hearing.
 






Looking good. Tbh I don't use any timing tools on the 5.4 myself anymore. If you have the keyway on the crank at 12:00, usually you can take the chains off without the cams flopping. Since you have the tools you don't have to worry though. Make sure you replace the oil filter housing gasket if you haven't already, major common leak point. Make sure you lay out the guides as they come off. The tensioner guides look the same but they arnt, they are side specific. I also hit the timing marks with paint marker, makes it easier to see then lining things up.

Engine does look really good on the inside, no sludge / barely any tarnish. I'm sure you'll find the tensioner gaskets blown but the chain guides are all there. Honestly I'd skip doing the oil pump(since you have to remove oil pan on the ground). Main reason you pull the pan is because the plastic debris will clog up the pickup tube. Your's looks all there, probably just blown out tensioners is all your hearing.
Good stuff, thanks! I really appreciate the advice and encouragement.

I have the Timing components out,
IMG_20230627_112114533_HDR.jpg


all good except the expected blown tensioners gaskets.
IMG_20230627_112155342_HDR.jpg
IMG_20230627_112149692_HDR.jpg
 






Ford is bad at timing components lol:)
 






Welp, I. Admit it. I bit off too much, gonna spit a bite back out. Valve seals are not gonna happen. On a stand maybe but not me, not under this hood.


Ok, pictures for your view. I think it's safe to pull the pins.

Additional picture of factory reluctor wheel. Although I purchased a new one there is no need.

IMG_20230627_181019929_HDR.jpg
IMG_20230627_181109405_HDR.jpg
IMG_20230627_181141551_HDR.jpg
IMG_20230627_181150493_HDR.jpg
IMG_20230627_181157767_HDR.jpg
IMG_20230627_181241048.jpg
 






Looks all right to me. Pull the pins, rtv the corners and where the head and block meet.
 






Well, the valve covers cleaned up good but the timing cover looked bad after power wash.

IMG_20230627_220634498_HDR.jpg
IMG_20230628_091054357.jpg


Could not put it on like that so, it got coated. Casting is very rough, but it will wash off easier now when it does get dirty
IMG_20230628_134557156_HDR.jpg


Still waiting on the oil filter housing gasket as suggested above. Also went to dealership for a water pump and thermostat which they got in today.This truck still has factory water pump, 20 years and 143 k miles.
 












Pre lube that sucker
 






The 4.6/5.4 water pump is one of the stoutest factory water pumps
 












Half of the engine is behind the windshield also, the firewall steps way back.
Took me a while to get back. Looks like you've got it under control. Not a lot has changed since the 97 4.6 I worked on. The 97's still had steel tensioners and I think it had two gears for the timing chains on the crankshaft. (Newer ones were one piece) But still the same design. The Tbird was pretty cramped to work on in the bay as well. I did it both ways. The first time I was just installing new PI heads, the second time I was installing a replacement short-block so I was able to do a lot of the work on an engine stand.
 






Was 105 degrees today.


Got the pesky gasket changed, water pump and timing cover installed, removed thermostat and block plug for a good flush.

Also got the new valve cover bushings installed , and the help it's seated under the gaskets. 27 valve cover bolts

IMG_20230629_202632681_HDR.jpg
IMG_20230629_220636217_HDR.jpg
IMG_20230629_220643807_HDR.jpg
 






Ok, because of this picture

IMG_20230626_152654641_HDR.jpg
I lost all sleep last night and over an hour of wtf. Time wasted. Valve covers are still off, I cranked engine over by hand at least 10 times while mlb held her finger against cam lobes feeling for a chip.

That picture shows the front cam lobe with a chip out of the side.

It's a weird flash reflection from what I can tell. There is no chip. The line is fine?

Reflection, or, divine intervention? This is wierd
 






Looks weird in that picture for sure. I've probably got one lying around for comparison
 






Looks weird in that picture for sure. I've probably got one lying around for comparison
It perfectly smooth, according to wife's finger, while rotating. It not even there
 



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