410Fortune - 96 5.0L XLT refurbish (making 1 great Ex from 2)

[rynstvy]

You likey that one then you will lovey this one:

Those pictures are directly from Fiberwerx

Also I am a regular on this forum, desert Explorer's are popular over there:
dezertrangers.com

i cant seem to find the pictures on fiberwerx, where on the site are they, and are they white expo's pics on there too?

 

[410Fortune]

Right click on the photo and choose properties.
Here is the picture URL:http://www.fiberwerx.com/images/x-treme_clip/IMG_9050.jpg

Fiberwerx has like 3 or 4 websites I think, hahaha they have been building a new one for a long time now.
Fiberwerx is also a part of Perry's fab n fiber which is also Mcneil, its a family thing I believe

 

[rynstvy]

Right click on the photo and choose properties.
Here is the picture URL:http://www.fiberwerx.com/images/x-treme_clip/IMG_9050.jpg

Fiberwerx has like 3 or 4 websites I think, hahaha they have been building a new one for a long time now.
Fiberwerx is also a part of Perry's fab n fiber which is also Mcneil, its a family thing I believe

cool thanks, do you remember where you got the white expo's pics from?

 

[410Fortune]

Dezertrangers.com

 

[Positive Vibes]

How did I miss this thread??? Signing up.

 

[410Fortune]

Time has come!

Okay my camshaft position sensor alignment tool will be here today.
I have measured and measured and I am ready to weld the new radiator support on, all paint has been stripped where the beads will be run, all metal has been straghtened, and the rad support is held in place right now with clamps. Welding will come tonight!

So basically I can mount the radiator, fan & clutch, plumb the hoses and fill the drivetrain with fluids.
I should be starting this sucker tomorrow.
Still alot of work to do before shes a daily driver but the next step is to break in the camshaft.

Anyone have more advice then this on breaking in the cam?:

truck got new cam, roller rockers, springs and retainers. The pushrods and hydraulic lifters stayed (80K miles).

Here is my plan, please add to it or tell me if I missed something.

1. on initial startup, run engine to 1500 RPM and hold it there for 10-15 minutes.
2. change oil and filter


Is it really that simple?
hahaha I am guessing no.

 

[410Fortune]

Okay thanks to JTSmith I realized that I needed to adjust my camshaft position sensor to factory specs before I run this engine.

I ordered the necessary alignment tool and did the procedure this evening:

First I removed the serpentine belt, then the AC line from the canister and compressor (to get access to sensor).
Next I pulled 7 spark plugs, leaving the #1 cyl plug in place.
Then I removed the cam sensor by loosening the retainer and bolt.

Alignment tool & top of cam body with sensor removed:

To bring the engine to #1 Cylinder TDC I rotated the crankshaft pulley using a 15/16" socket and 1/2" drive (the engine rotates clockwise from drivers seat)
I felt for the only remaining compression stroke (with 7 plugs removed), this is when the #1 cylinder has both valves closed and the piston is traveling up.
I then removed the #1 plug.
I watched the piston in #1 go up to the top and then back down one more time, back up to the top and this is top dead center.

I did it this way because it is far more work to remove the valve cover at this stage.

Once I found TDC I installed the alignment tool into the top of the cam sensor and carefully installed the sensor.

The stator in the cam sensor is driven off the oil pump shaft gear, the stator shaft must mesh (just like installing a distributor)
Once the gears mesh the sensor body will slide down into the block, but it will rotate as it drops.
I moved it once or twice in order to match the mark I had made before removal on the block and sensor body when it is fully seated .(only part during this re-assembly I didn't clean!)

Here it is in final position with alignment tool removed:

Put everything back together and we are golden.
I removed the NGK Irridium plugs I had installed in this block when I was still driving the donor truck in favor of some Autolite double plat's:

Thanks to EF & JTSmith I likely avoided some catastrophic engine failure.....oh and always second guessing the procedure for each stage of the build helps!!!

HEY JT did I do it right? hahaha

 

[Turdle]

You are perfect

Man tht is a cool ride!!!!
I'm going to want to play in that
I'm blown away by that machine!

I had no idea, why didn't you show me this earlier???

 

[410Fortune]

where do you think those pictures in the other threads were coming from?
hahahaha I was sure you had seen this......

 

[Turdle]

You did the e-cam correct?

I don't worry about breaking in a roller cam. They shouldn't wear.
You know I did the x cam right?

 

[410Fortune]

yes and yes
E-303 I kept the lifters and rods, in my experience they do not show much sign of wear after 83K miles, this truck is a daily driver and tow vehicle for the boat.
Mild cam is perfect.

 

[Turdle]

Sending positive energy to help you today.
Got ir running yet?

 

[410Fortune]

CLOSE!!

I bought all the fluids this AM
16 quarts of Mercon III
two bottles of Lube Guard addative (to make it Mercon V compatible)
5 quarts of cheapo 10W-30
2 Motocraft oil filters
Microfelt trans filter
2 gallons coolant

primer & paint to cover my welds.....

 

[rynstvy]

i was just wonderin what it all is your doing to your expo, did you rebuild your engine? and can you keep your ac fan box with those headers?

 

[410Fortune]

In this thread on the first page, in my first post you can read what I am doing here to this truck and why.
I did not rebuild the engine as it only has 83K miles on it and ran like a top before I rolled the truck.

I did add some "power adders" the long block during the -re-installation however

Yes the Torque Monster headers clear all stock equipement, hoses, etc in the 96-2001 Explorer 5.0L or in a Ranger 5.0L conversion.
There are several complete Torque Monster Header install write-ups and reviews on this forum.

I am doing some body work right now on the new rad support....vroom vroom! So close!

 

[rynstvy]

In this thread on the first page, in my first post you can read what I am doing here to this truck and why.
I did not rebuild the engine as it only has 83K miles on it and ran like a top before I rolled the truck.

I did add some "power adders" the long block during the -re-installation however

Yes the Torque Monster headers clear all stock equipement, hoses, etc in the 96-2001 Explorer 5.0L or in a Ranger 5.0L conversion.
There are several complete Torque Monster Header install write-ups and reviews on this forum.

I am doing some body work right now on the new rad support....vroom vroom! So close!

kool thanks, apollogy for the paine in the ass so good uck for sure those headers will make your beast sound even more beastly

 

[Cali' Explorer]

410-
Sorry for the cross post, but after seeing your post, it looks like I may have gotten the CMP Sensor 180* of where it needs to be.

Is there anyway you can get a good shot of the bottom of the CMP tool? I just need to see if I set the half moon shapes edges in line with the motor or not. I looked into getting the tool locally, but the only place that has it is Ford and they want $80 for it, plus it'll take a week+ to get here.

From every picture I've seen of the tool, it looks like the arrow on the top sits dead inline with the edges of the half moon shape... and according to all the documentation I have (Haynes Manual and AllData), you are supposed to set the arrow on the top of the tool inline with the motor center, irregardless of how it was setup before.

 

[Turdle]

Steven, here is a link for the tool
http://tools.batauto.com/index.php?...il&PHPSESSID=0c56fed5f99d3b4246d4b0c45b9ca3dd

also, to eyeball it in close, the stator, or rotating flag, rotates counterclockwise looks like this, ( , when viewed from top.

just getting ready to cross the gap in the senor, at #1TDC compression stroke, if the plug is pointed almost straihgt forward. (6 o'clock), actually it is slightly before 6 o'clock on mine the plug is a little to right
does this help?

If the flag is pointed like this ) it is 180 out

 

[Cali' Explorer]

JTSmith-
Thanks for that. With that part number I was able call up Autozone and they can order the part for the same $26 price. Much better then $80 - $100 from Ford, haha.

I'll have to compile all this data from all these sources into a master "5.0 Engine - Everything You Need to know" Thread.

 

[410Fortune]

Geesh okay my arrow is not inline with the center of the engine, it points at the crankshaft pulley yes but its slightly to an angle, this matches the position of the sensor body as it was before I pulled it from the block.
So you are saying I should ignore the mark and the way the sensor was in there from Ford when it ran and make sure the arrow goes straight front to back????

Dont make me take this thing to Ford