5.0 2to4wd 4406 and tons

[allmyEXes]

I wouldn't think that fuel wouldn't strip any special coating but lacquer thinner just might. Maybe remove the TPS then scrub the throttle body in a strong mix of Purple power and water or what is the kitchen dish soap that they wash birds in after an oil spill? Dawn?
Was that the shortest of the 2 bolts? I'm glad that worked.
Since I already took a pic anyway, here is a pic of my 1997 Mountaineer throttle body installed.

 

[SuperGordo]

My '97mm 90 Degree piece doesn't even have the places made into it for the pre-heater? lines to attach. Maybe the '96 Explorers only had that.
I'm not well versed on the year to year 5.0 variances that have occurred. I remember when I didn't know anything about the EEC-V 5.0s which only came in the Explorer/Mountaineers.
I'm not sure about EEC-V Obd2 pcms, but the Fox body EEC-IV OBD1 guys had made up a triangulated resistor circuit on the 3 EGR wires that fooled the pcm into thinking that the EGR valve is plugged in.
If I had a spare 90, I would send it to you. I just thought of who might have one. @SuperGordo recently had to buy a replacement used 5.0 and it is possible that he might have one in his extra leftover pieces. Maybe Gordon will see this post since I @ ed him. Keep us up to date on how the bolt extraction is going and enjoy the higher temperatures that us southerners or more used too.

I haven't had time to read this thread, But I do have 5.0 parts laying about the garage. What piece are we looking for?

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Oh interesting @allmyEXes mine was 90° clockwise from that. The cable runs under from the back with the blow by tube on the top.
I’ve actually got the body torn apart on my table about to just soak it down in carb cleaner.

 

[allmyEXes]

@Scotts96sploder @410Fortune @SuperGordo That cable routing is interesting. I noticed that your cable is running from under it. The cable bracket must be different. I'm sure that Jamie has seen it configured this way that yours is.
Gordon, I was anticipating that Scott might need the 90-degree shaped piece of detachable plenum for his project, but I see that the bolt extraction is working out. Following.

 

[410Fortune]

Nice sandals! I might have to try some of those out, I wore out my crocs

There is a special coating on the throttle body blade they say don’t clean it… I’ve always ignored it and clean them anyways and lube up all linkage

There are at least 3’dofferent lower and upper intakes between 96-01 5.0 depending on the egr setup.


Someone has been messing with your setup
All
Of the 96-01 explorer 5.0 use the same throttle and cruise control brackets and none Of them have the cable coming from underneath

It’s a 5.0 so there are plenty of things that can be modded, the whole intake is semetrical and can be run reversed… elbow, no elbow, egr internal or external, (96-97.5 are gt40 internal egr) 98-01 gt40p 3 bar heads, external egr. You never know what you will get until you open the hood, the 90s was a long time ago, many hands in the pie

 

[Scotts96sploder]

For anyone curious, the water exits out the back into that heater hose. I bypassed it, but I’m going to seal up the throttle like it will be getting water because the hose I removed says EGR on it. Not sure if temperature affects the EGR so if it throws a code I can swap it back.
@410Fortune you know I’ve always thought this routing was kinda silly, the cable rubs on the plenum, but it has an extra thick section right there so I just assumed it was factory. One day this whole engine will have to come out so I’ll be putting things back in a more sensible fashion.
I think I’m gonna run 4 studs with blue loctite. I was even considering stainless and anti-seize but that might rattle loose. Not sure the plan, depends on what I can find today.

 

[410Fortune]

That is early intake setup found on 96-97.5 gt40 engines (non p heads)
The egr is internal through the intake lower and upper manifold and through the elbow all the way to that egr diaphragm valve. Your valve is missing its vacuum feed which I believe should be coming from a dpfe sensor and vacuum switch (been a long time since I had a 96 setup)

Bypass the water to intake lines we simply make a loop and clamp it

Good job
So far! That elbow will come out of there usually even though it is tight to the hvac box,, of course that is assuming the bolts will loosen lol lol
There should be gaskets in there not orange silicon

 

[Scotts96sploder]

It’s back together, that was a lot for a sticking throttle lol, and I didn’t even make the new cover for the filter box.
Couldn’t find studs other than crops of all thread so the little bracket got deleted. The heater thing is bypassed with 5/16 fuel line because I had some laying around, and it leaked up front. Tossed some form-a-gasket on there and a screw type clamp and it seems to be holding. Test drive later after that cures a bit.

 

[410Fortune]

Where the hell is the throttle cable? Hahahahaha the iac is supposed to be on the top of the throttle Body

Whatever works! I would make sure that full throttle of the skinney pedal actually has the throttle blade butterfly fully open

 

[allmyEXes]

@Scotts96sploder Do you have factory cruise control? (I see your cruise module now) Also, can you get a camera in
behind the curved part of the upper plenum to get a picture of the throttle bracket? I'm curious if it looks like a stock arrangement. My curved piece never had ports for the small heater lines.
Yours is a 1996. Mine is a 1996.5 manufactured March 1996 and called a 1997. It has internal EGR and non "P", 3-bar heads too.

 

[410Fortune]

I have two 96 trucks outside right now built couple months apart
One has the round airbox and one has the square
Crazy

The throttle cable never came from behind
It must be some mustang or f159 bracket on his engine

 

[Scotts96sploder]

So it looks pretty factory to me. There’s a bracket for the cable on the plenum, plastic is broken. There’s a 2 bolt bracket that fits cast holes on the 90. The little bracket I got rid of used to hold some cover but also held the TPS connection in it’s current orientation, and the cruise cable fits that length very nice other than the module being moved back to make room for my filter housing. Sep 95, idk how to decode the vin, but there it is if you’re curious.
Now I will say I have found a bunch of shady things done under here. The idler pulley bolt has been replaced with a standard bolt and a drilled bolt to act as a spacer. I couldn’t buy the correct replacement so it’s still that way. It wouldn’t surprise me a bit to find out these intake parts are off a mustang or something.

 

[allmyEXes]

Good pics. Last night, I was looking at '95 Mustang to see if it was configured that way, and it wasn't. I was Curious of Scott's build date and what I see is what I'm expecting that his is a very early '96. September 1995 in fact. It is the first iteration of a 5.0 in an Explorer. The pre-heater is made into it. Jamie. Have you ever seen a 90 degree piece that had small heater lines attached? My '97 doesn't have provision for the heater tube and in fact, the throttle cable bracket almost looks like it uses the same casting boss for a bolt that was a heater line port. My '97 Mountaineer has a build date of March 1996, 6 months early for a 1997 vehicle that usually doesn't start getting manufactured around September. Jamie, is it possible you haven't ever seen this very early, first version of the 5.0 in the Gen 2 Explorer?

 

[allmyEXes]

I the throttle cable bracket bolted to the throttle body or the curved piece? If so, it would move with the throttle body clocking
changed 90 degrees.
ADDED: It could only go 90 one way and it would make the IAC go all the way under.

 

[410Fortune]

Nope I’ve never seen this before! If I have it was so long ago I forgot bahahahahHaha

Crazy!!

I’m gonna pop the hoods on my 96 5.0 donors outside and have a look see I’m pretty sure something like that would catch my eye but I’m also like a whirlwind tornado at times with so many projects pulling me around

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Gave the rig a once over, going wheeling in the morning. I assumed my slight driveline vibration was from me screwing up the angle, it’s not. So the yolk has play on the output from the 4406.

I’m basically going to ignore it for now because it only vibrates at high speed at neutral throttle, mostly downhill. I can just let all the way off or get in it to make it go away. I guess it vibrates a little under hard acceleration.

So that means I need to rebuild the case, and if I’m doing that I’m going to find or have a slip yolk eliminator made. Anyone know where I can find one?

 

[410Fortune]

I’ve never seen a sye
For the 4406
Would have to drill and bolt and shaft to it and add a slip to the shaft
Or complete custom job

Your rig would be sick with a 1356/56 doubler or any combo of doubler for behind the 31 Spline ford 6 bolt case

Doublers and adapters avail
Dana 20, np205, 203, 1356, 4406 or an atlas

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1356-ford np205 doubler

--Warning, tech ahead-- I already posted this in the IH forum (where else can you find real tech), but I thought I'd organize I bit and get it checked for proper triangulation in GEN. Starting out with a Borg Warner 1356 t-case from a 1-ton ford, slip yoke, manual shift, PTO. I will be mating...

www.pirate4x4.com

Rear end yoke excessive end play is pretty common the the 4406 not too difficult to rebuild and get new parts can even use parts from the more available electric or control trac versions of the 4406 (same output)

Could it be a worn yoke on the d shaft side of things?

 

[Scotts96sploder]

@410Fortune after today I’m going to pack it full of some thick grease and see what happens. I don’t really need double low but I have considered a billet case and doubler.
I’m looking at the yolk, I could weld a flange on one of if I can keep it true, and drilling the shaft isn’t too bad, I’ll just send a brand new one to the machine shop. That’s probably what I’ll do is just have it all made and mated.
But whatever, time to go try to get stuck

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Ok well I’ll call that the final test run, rig did all the things I wanted, even got to crawl on some baby rocks. They are considered a “historic monument” so it’s a $500 fine if you get caught lol.

Anyway mostly to just tried to get stuck and it just won’t, not in the marsh or the sugar sand anyway. I didn’t even air down, left these at 26psi which is ironically what’s written on the door.

Washed this thing down with degreaser and a pressure washer three times over to get all the sand and salt off. Didn’t work very well so I’ve got some salt neutralizer and different attachments on the way. But I think the salt caused some kind of a short.

Found the rig with the fog lights on and rhe headlights dimly lit with no marker lights, no key, nothing other than the fog light switch light on. It all turned off after turning off the fog light switch. So I’m assuming there is something going on with the high beam relay that switches off the fogs. I’m gonna go pick up a couple cans of WD40 and maybe some electronics cleaner and dig in later. First I’m going to try just driving and see if it fixes itself

 

[410Fortune]

Do you have the autolamp mirror?