Barack Obama linked 2nd gen. SAS

[Positive Vibes]

subscribing

 

[Stic-o]

Just finally found this thread,

Hey IZwack, maybe we should start our own thread lik Jefe and RockRanger, but with Pepsi I know there are Pepsi cans everywhere in my pictures

 

[section525]

I'd be all up in that thread too.

 

[IZwack]

LOL it was the first thing i grabbed out of the fridge

But I prefer lemonade over anything else

 

[RockRanger]

check out http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=146475

He used an upper link on the passanger side and it works well.

Also when you get rims with a deep offset the flip the rim which can make it a pain to mount and dismount tires.

 

[IZwack]

check out http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=146475

He used an upper link on the passanger side and it works well.

Thanks -- I've read Michael's SAS thread a few times but KirbyN does have a very good point on the upper link's position.

 

[IZwack]

Few things came in this week:

1-inch heim -- this one is going on the axle end of panhard bar:

Link tabs for axle -- 0.25" thick - 0.625" hole

Rubber bushing -- used for chassis end of panhard bar and two bottom links.

Tubing - top one is 1.875" OD x .1875" wall for panhard bar - bottom two are 1.5" OD x 0.25" wall for drag link and link between the two knuckles. There is one tube missing in the image - the upper link tube - which is much like the two bottom ones except its tapped for the adjustable bushing below.

Adjustable bushing for upper link to allow proper pinion angle - 1.125" thread

Knuckles painted with SkyManufacturing arms

Fox shocks are on the way and should be here on Monday (the 26th of June).
The 14-bolt axle has been purchased and I will pick it up on the Thursday after the shocks arrive (the 29th of June). I have no idea how I'm going to man-handle that 14-bolt -- I had a hard enough time moving a complete Dana44 around.

 

[FROADER]

 

[IZwack]

weirdo

You know who I havent seen online in a while - that freaking section guy

Oh well, going to sleep, work tomorrow - cyas

 

[zainyD]

Looks like good progress, now get to work!

 

[JoshC]

Where are you getting all of your links?

 

[IZwack]

I'm building my links.

I didnt post a pic of the tubing I'm using for my lower links but I have them sitting in the back of my Explorer. They are 2"x2"-0.25" wall square tubing <-- very delicious

Along with other steel pieces, the steel for the square tubing links were purchased from Potomac Steel & Supply (http://potomacsteel.com) located in Springfield, Virginia . Great guys to work with there at the Potomac Steel's counter -- with huge warehouse you can browse (just dont take your kids to the warehouse - a few of the guys that work there have nudy pics around their work station).

The RE Large Joint were purchased from Performance Off Road Center (PORC on Pirate). The rubber bushings can be purchased from most off road places like Mountain Off Road (MORE).

Dewalt hole saws to cut the radius at the end of the links were purchased from Amazon.com -- they qualified for Free Shipping so it was cheaper to buy 'em from Amazon than buying them locally -- Yes even Amazon.com can help you with your special vehicle modification needs

 

[section525]

Knuckles painted with SkyManufacturing arms

You painted your knuckles? How much more stuff are you going to paint before you build? Gawd. Dead Link Removed

 

[IZwack]

You painted your knuckles? How much more stuff are you going to paint before you build? Gawd. Dead Link Removed

LOL chill babe - chill . At least these painted items aren't going to be welded to

I'm not "building" until I get the 14-bolt so I have another week and a half or so before the actual build. The D44 front internals and "outers" are done - I just need to weld the tabs for the links and the shocks - which won't happen until I test fit the axle under the vehicular mansluaghter device.

I'm trying to build and finish the axles BEFORE they go under the vehicle - SECTION525 from Chico, California


EDIT: Ford 8.8 ABS ring gear came in today - thanks to kbabiak .

So in order for the speedometer to work, somehow the ABS ring gear above needs to go into this thing - whatever the hell this is:

(photo credit to JeepHorizons)

Of course the speedo will have an offset but I at least want a working speedo - even if the reading is off by a certain percentage

 

[zhanx]

second photo no worky

 

[IZwack]

second photo no worky

Oh really? Dang - anyways its a picture of a 14-bolt's center section.

EDIT: ok I changed it to another image

 

[zhanx]

works now

 

[Kirby N.]

check out http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=146475

He used an upper link on the passanger side and it works well.

Also when you get rims with a deep offset the flip the rim which can make it a pain to mount and dismount tires.

I am not saying it won't work, I am saying it is not how I would do it. Leaf spring fronts with the shackle in the front have simular characteristics, and some stock rigs came that way. If you watch something with a shackle in the front flex, when the passenger side is stuffed, the drooped drivers side will start to point the diff down. This can cause some issues with the driveline angle. I am not saying it can't be done. It would make more sense in my mind not to build it that way though.

 

[lifeguard379]

subscribing

 

[IZwack]

Link Calculations

Okay did some more link calculations tonight just to to over it again after the design change (switched the upper link to the driver's side) and I found an interesting result:

In order for the front pinion to be pointing at the transfer case throughout the entire suspension travel (and have decent anti-dive characteristics), the upper link needs to be longer than the lower link by about 5-inches Can anyone verify this concept?

It just seems mind-blowing to have the upper link longer than the lower link but there just is no way of getting the pinion to point at the transfer case throughout the entire suspension travel.

I guess this all boils down to the question, how important is it to have the pinion pointing directly at the transfer case all the time? -- keeping in mind that the front driveshaft is a double-cardan ? Because there are many that have ran linked designs with shorter uppers -- but my assumption is that these designs must not have the pinion pointing towards the transfer case at full droop because the links just don't seem to allow that. So perhaps its not important to have the two inline.

I guess I'm thinking that if the pinion is directly in-line with the transfer case- there is a smaller chance of breaking driveshaft u-joints.

EDIT: maybe I'm just being paranoid about the pinion angle at full droop -- Rick's and Michael's link setup dont appear to point directly at the pinion at full droop: