Barack Obama linked 2nd gen. SAS

[IZwack]

Its fine up to about 40 mph and then it shakes violently.

Its not the driveshaft and its not the wheels not being balanced, so I'm thinking its the alignment (toe in/out), which when combined with the huge tire lugs, results in the violent shake. So later on t his week or early next week, Im going to have it aligned.

 

[bmxking5]

Why not just align it yourself? Doesn't take long at all.

 

[tune-a-fish]

IZwack, I spent my whole day getting through this thread, it's nice to see someone willing to spend the time to document such a task, this will make lifting my sons ex seem very simple. Thank you.

 

[sn0border88]

tune-a your name is AWSOME, send a pm to SPAS, just for kicks will ya? Tell her I asked you too.

theres alot more threads on here that are MUCH simplier and easier to follow, look around in the offroad section.

 

[IZwack]

Why not just align it yourself? Doesn't take long at all.

Care to enlighten me on self-alignment?

But I kind of want to get it done at a shop with a computer so I can be 100% sure.

 

[RockRanger]

Park truck on level ground with the wheels strait
Block rear tires
Dissconnect battery
Jack truck up
Remove front tires
Clamp some strait ege of metal to roters Angle iron works well here.
Make said angle iron level to each other
Use tape measure and adjust TREs on the tierod till the front number is 1/16-1/8" Max smaller then number in the rear. Make sure you measure from the same distance from the center of the wheel bearings front and rear.
Retighten jam nuts and reinstall tires hook up battery and you toe is set

For caster set an angle guage on the top ball joint nut. It should read 4-7degres with the back lower then the front. Adjust links to get it within 4 to 7. Probably around 5 would be best. Caster is set now.

Camber- if you have problems here your axle is bent or your ball joints wheelbearings or knuckle is jacked. Cant adjust it on a solid axle.

 

[IZwack]

Hey those are some smashing ideas RockRanger -- thanks !!! I'll try that in a few days.

 

[Stic-o]

another way to do the Toe is mark a spot on the rear of your front tires in the center of the tread, mesure the distance between. (a assistant helps) then roll the truck forward so you have that same center spot spun 180* now mesure again. Should be about 1/8" However I was told when running 35" or bigger tires, it can be up to a 1/4", which is what mine is. Mine seem to be fine, tracks straight, and dosn't squeal around corners.

for Camber they do make inserts for the ball joints to adjust this.

Matt's right on the Caster, I need to order new c-wedges for mine, 7* ones are to much, I need 4* I think.

 

[IZwack]

Last week I was working on the rear shock things so here are two pics of my outboard mounted rear shocks :

Top side - driver's side:

Bottom side - passenger's side:

As some of you may notice, I re-used the GM axle bracket except rotated it so that it points forward.


And for anyone following this thread for his/her own SAS: I had to plug in the ABS controller in order for the speedometer to show a reading. But obviously I didn't actually need the entire ABS controller, just the circuitry. So below is kind of an 'exploded' diagram of the ABS controller. The only part I needed is of course the black box on the right with the yellow dot and the other two parts were left out to save some space .

 

[Stic-o]

Last week I was working on the rear shock things so here are two pics of my outboard mounted rear shocks :

Top side - driver's side:

Look's like mine

 

[RockRanger]

another way to do the Toe is mark a spot on the rear of your front tires in the center of the tread, mesure the distance between. (a assistant helps) then roll the truck forward so you have that same center spot spun 180* now mesure again. Should be about 1/8" However I was told when running 35" or bigger tires, it can be up to a 1/4", which is what mine is. Mine seem to be fine, tracks straight, and dosn't squeal around corners.

The way I mentioned the 1/16 to 1/8" is measured closer to piviot point. A 1/16 close to the roter is probably about a 1/4" out at a 35" tire. A shop teacher I had said as the tire gets bigger the closer to zero you want you measurements to get. It make sence to me that that is the case as well.

 

[Burns]

You are making one nice rig. Nice.

 

[IZwack]

You are making one nice rig. Nice.

Well we'll see in 1.5 weeks up in Paragon

 

[Burns]

Well we'll see in 1.5 weeks up in Paragon

ill be wanting to see some pics

 

[FROADER]

Hey IZ, I like your garden hose brake lines!

 

[IZwack]

Hehe thanks - I got them from.. CALIFORNIA!

I could have picked other colors, but my fav is green so had to go with it

 

[Burns]

i do not know if i just missed this or not but what made u go with a air shock setup like u have. i just have never thouht about it

 

[IZwack]

i do not know if i just missed this or not but what made u go with a air shock setup like u have. i just have never thouht about it

Main reason:
An air shock has a very strange spring rate curve. It is nothing like a normal coil spring. This weird curve is what makes it great for crawling over rocks as it allows the axle to flex more without having much twisting force on the chassis - whch helps prevent the vehicle from rolling over.

The downside is that, without an anti-sway bar, the vehicle becomes a boat on the road - swaying left and right on normal turns <-- which is fun and dangerous

 

[Burns]

good. i have been trying to follow your build up because of the air shock setup. i am now thinking of doing that if i can come up with a good set of anti-sway bars.

 

[Stic-o]

Sway bars! You don't need no stinking sway bars!

Sway bars are for sissys! :