Fix4Dirt '98 XLT

[Fix4Dirt]

Yes Joe Dirt, oh ..., I mean Waterboy, "what an idiot!"

Were both of the metal ones good? I bought one but I don't know if I'll find it before I get to my SOHC timing stuff again.

I was considering a Simmonz one, but never actually bought one. Had a closeout plastic one on hand already, so no point in buying another one haha. Anyways woth the mileage this one has, knock on wood, but I figure if I get 5 years out of it thats fine.

 

[CDW6212R]

My 99 I didn't disturb the sensors when I did the front tensioner etc, and it never leaked. The problem of the T'stat housing was unknown then, this time I might change it when I pull the front apart again.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

My 99 I didn't disturb the sensors when I did the font tensioner etc, and it never leaked. The problem of the T'stat housing was unknown then, this time I might change it when I pull the front apart again.

Ahhhh got it. Probbaly the mud caked in the valkey and on it didnt help it dissapate heat any. It would puddle so figured it was about time to change it.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Curious new issue- coolant temp is fine on normal driving bht going up hills especially when its warm out=216 coolant temp. On flat and normal driving its 190-194. Suspecting either WP or rad.

 

[timtimtimajim]

Water pump and radiator are a good place to start. Hopefully that’s all it is.

At one time I was having the same issue with mine. Ended up being the transmission was getting too hot and the radiator couldn’t keep up with cooling both the engine and transmission. 5 speed swap solved the problem! Figured I’d throw this out here just as something else to look at.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Water pump and radiator are a good place to start. Hopefully that’s all it is.

At one time I was having the same issue with mine. Ended up being the transmission was getting too hot and the radiator couldn’t keep up with cooling both the engine and transmission. 5 speed swap solved the problem! Figured I’d throw this out here just as something else to look at.

Trans is running about 150-160, so Im doubtful. But Ill check it just to be sure!

Ill try rad first, since dont have to take the fan clutch off (last time found out it wouldnt budge... for reasons unknown)... Although curiously checked a little while ago and the rad was slightly low, but theres plenty in the reservoir. Topped it off, so we will see if that was the cause. If it was, man Im dumb for not noticing earlier. Leave it to me to think of complex solutions to simple problems!

 

[410Fortune]

Did you check to see if the overflow tube is clear? Maybe time for a new radiator cap

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Did you check to see if the overflow tube is clear? Maybe time for a new radiator cap

Flow tube is clear. Possibly, will have to see! I refilled it so well see, maybe itll hold just fine. If it does then why didnt it suck up from the resevoir? Probably cap haha

 

[Turdle]

Any dirt in reservoir will block the tiny outlet nipple at bottom. It'll allow coolant in, but get sucked back into nipple, and block coolant from going back to radiator.

And a new cap as suggested.

 

[410Fortune]

The overflow tank can be cleaned with flushing and a long soft brush
However the best method is to remove it completely, fill it with pea gravel warm water and soap and shake the crap out of it

 

[Fix4Dirt]

New rad cap and a refill of the system seems to have done the trick, the temp runs about 190 normally, pulling up hil with AC it hits 194. However, how long does it take your trucks to warm up? Using the dash gauge, yesterday when it was 55, took 5 or 6 minutes of idling to hit operating temp. But what's odd is it stays there, it doesnt go any higher, so it's not overheating any, just warms up really fast. Maybe if it was an alluminum engine I'd believe it, but seems abnormally fast for these engines. Before at 5 minutes it'd be maybe 1/4 of the way to the middle.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Frazier Mtn. The picture makes the trail look easy

 

[Fix4Dirt]

New rad cap and a refill of the system seems to have done the trick, the temp runs about 190 normally, pulling up hil with AC it hits 194. However, how long does it take your trucks to warm up? Using the dash gauge, yesterday when it was 55, took 5 or 6 minutes of idling to hit operating temp. But what's odd is it stays there, it doesnt go any higher, so it's not overheating any, just warms up really fast. Maybe if it was an alluminum engine I'd believe it, but seems abnormally fast for these engines. Before at 5 minutes it'd be maybe 1/4 of the way to the middle.

Nevermind, took it to get to 100 degrees and it gets to 212 on any hill... back to the drawing board. Took the stat out and it seems fine, nothing odd there. Next thing to test is fan clutch I guess.

 

[donalds]

It's time to install electric fan and controller and you will gain a little horsepower too

 

[Fix4Dirt]

It's time to install electric fan and controller and you will gain a little horsepower too

Im planning to zip tie the fan clutch and make it a 1-1 to rule it out. If the problem persists its not the clutch, if it goes away... then E fan it is

Question for you though. At idle, how fast does your Explorer warm up? At idle it took 1.5 Devil Went Down to Georgias (so less than 5 minutes) Its 70 outside.

 

[donalds]

From stone cold it idles down in about 3-4 min
But I'm running a 180 t stat and no fan at all till 186
Then the fan ramps up from 50% power to 100% power if the temps rise
So at 186 is 50% at 196 its at 100%

 

[Fix4Dirt]

From stone cold it idles down in about 3-4 min
But I'm running a 180 t stat and no fan at all till 186

Maybe I'm on track then. It took about that a hair longer than that to idle down. It seems it hit operating temp (confirmed because heater blows hot) then idled down 30-45 seconds leter. Maybe my old thermostat was stuck open a bit, since from 50 I'd let it idle 5 minutes, then Id have to drive a few miles for it to get up to operating temp. As long as Ive driven it it's been like that, so I never bat an eye haha

 

[Fix4Dirt]

At wits end- have swapped known good: extra tstat, fan clutch, new WP, radiator, rad cap... and still no avail! It doesnt overheat at idle but when you pull up a hill it goes up. The next things I have to check are the hoses (anything collapsing), then test the head gasket- no smoke or smell, but I dont know what else to check after this..... Ill also trying taking the stat out and see if that helps any (then I can narrow down cause of low flow) Also I noticed of the 2 stats I have, one has a little pin, the other doesnt- does it matter & is there anything orientation wise for it?

Not too sure what else to check after those... pretty much its got all known good cooling parts.......... and it still isnt happy! It never used to overheat at all even under higher load. Trans temp also rises too FWIW, gets to around 190 just moving jtself up the hill. I have a Hayden cooler in it so not sure whats up. All this started when I changed the tstat housing for a leak... then it hit the fan for some reason... not sure why!!!!

 

[Turdle]

Pin goes on top to let air bubbles escape.

Double check for maybe a shop towel or rag got slipped in between radiator and condenser somehow. It could happen. All your symptoms combined point to blocked airflow thru radiator, slowing airflow on the the trans cooler in the process.
Edit
If the trans lines still go to radiator, and radiator overheats, trans fluid will rise to that temp.

Good idea to check lower radiator hose. If it feels at all flimsy when squeezed, it's fired!!!

In other words, the high trans temp might be a by product if overheated coolant.

Edit edit. Do you have a factory fan?
How does the shroud look?

 

[BKennedy]

Check what you changed before the symptoms occurred. An easy way to check a thermostat is to put it in a pot of water on the stove with a thermometer. See if it opens when it's supposed to open.

Check the new housing, it's possible it's blocked?

Stop throwing parts at it. It's something to do with the thermostat or housing.