Front end suspension parts

[Theodoremartinez]

98 5.0 awd xlt. What parts would I need for a front end suspension rebuild? I’ve already done the sway bar end links and shock absorbers all around. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[wollimann]

A complete rebuild with no compromise or only a repair?
Depends on what you must change and what you like to spend in money/time.

I would not buy such a "cheap complete set", buy good parts seperately.
Upper and lower controlarms with balljoints

https://www.rockauto.com/de/catalog/ford,1998,explorer,5.0l+v8,1304435,suspension,control+arm,10401

Maybe you need swaybar bushings

https://www.rockauto.com/de/catalog/ford,1998,explorer,5.0l+v8,1304435,suspension,sway+bar+bushing,7624

and new camber/caster bolts

https://www.rockauto.com/de/catalog/ford,1998,explorer,5.0l+v8,1304435,suspension,alignment+bolt+/+camber+plate,13516

If you don't need new lower controlarms, they are not rusty and rubber bushings are in good conditions,
then you have to press out the lower ball joints.

https://www.rockauto.com/de/catalog/ford,1998,explorer,5.0l+v8,1304435,suspension,ball+joint,10070

What about steering, inner and outer tie rods?

https://www.rockauto.com/de/catalog/ford,1998,explorer,5.0l+v8,1304435,steering,tie+rod+end,7428

Front wheel hubs, no play?

https://www.rockauto.com/de/catalog/ford,1998,explorer,5.0l+v8,1304435,brake+&+wheel+hub,wheel+bearing+&+hub,1636

Some information about steering and suspension

Repair and Diagnosis — 1998 Ford Explorer 4WD V8-302 5.0L VIN P EFI Service Manual | Operation CHARM

Detailed repair manual for the 1998 Ford Explorer 4WD V8-302 5.0L VIN P EFI.

charm.li

Good luck!

 

[410Fortune]

Lower ball joints
Upper control arms with new ball joints
Inner and outer tie rod ends
Wheel bearing / hub bearings
Brake rotors calipers pads
Cv axles or cv axle seals at the differential
Front driveshaft u joint and possibly cv cup

That would be a semi complete rebuild
Which parts does your truck need?

 

[Theodoremartinez]

Looks like everything is good except my sway bar bushings and my front passenger axel and a differential seal I believe

 

[410Fortune]

What’s wrong with the passenger cv axle shaft? Boot torn and grease flung?

Which seal is leaking?

 

[Theodoremartinez]

What’s wrong with the passenger cv axle shaft? Boot torn and grease flung?

Which seal is leaking?

Yep the boots shredded and the diff housing gasket is leaking

 

[DintDobbs]

I don't have any thing to add to this conversation that hasn't been said already, but +1 to the other fellas - they've already said what needs to be said.

Personally, I support the use of MOOG parts. I use exclusively MOOG ball joints and tie rods. (Yes, I have bent them, but I doubt you'll be jumping your Explorer.)

 

[wollimann]

Yep the boots shredded and the diff housing gasket is leaking

Diff housing cover has no seal, only rtv,
but i think the housing shaft seal is leaking.
So i would recommend to change both sides and use SKF seal rings,
different seals.
Left

More Information for SKF 13757

Right

More Information for SKF 17521

So the cv-axle shafts has to come out, on the passenger side the shaft extension will come out too,
doesn't matter. Hope for the best, that differential bearings and cv axle shafts are not worn out!

While cv axle shafts are out, change the ripped boots.

1998 FORD EXPLORER 5.0L V8 CV Joint Boot | Shop Now at RockAuto

Drivetrain Parts and More for Your 1998 FORD EXPLORER at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.

www.rockauto.com

Maybe time for a differential oil change, not so lucky cause there's no drain plug.
Cover bolts are hard to reach with the differential installed.
Sucking out most of the old oil over the fill plug is possible.

 

[Blandy]

Have a competent alignment shop do an inspection. Have them show you what is wrong with what needs replacement. Should be free to .5 hrs labor. Some jobs are bears and might want to pay for those along with the alignment. Be completely upfront with them. Ball joints are notoriously weak in these. I'm running 255/70-18's and 275/65-18's F & R with RWD and no lift but had to tie back the LH brake cable. I will tweak my torsion bars after I install my NOS factory air shocks. I would replace rubber with polly where possible. Had to replace my end-link bushings twice.
Does anyone know how to eliminate wheel hop when in sand?

 

[wollimann]

Does anyone know how to eliminate wheel hop when in sand?

I would say first thing is to reduce tire pressure, obtaining more contact surface.
Try to drive carefully slow, but not too slow.
With RWD your may have an open differential, a locker would be an option for more traction.
AT tires with a good profile helps, but i think wheel hopping could not be totally eliminated.
A stiff suspension could not absorb the bumps (caused by loosing/regaining traction) very well.

 

[410Fortune]

96-01 5.0 explorers have rear traction bars those will help keep wheel hop under control as well as a good set of shocks and leaf springs that are not 200k miles and worn out

 

[Blandy]

I would say first thing is to reduce tire pressure, obtaining more contact surface.
Try to drive carefully slow, but not too slow.
With RWD your may have an open differential, a locker would be an option for more traction.
AT tires with a good profile helps, but i think wheel hopping could not be totally eliminated.
A stiff suspension could not absorb the bumps (caused by loosing/regaining traction) very well.

I have a LSD, but not sure how good it is. I think my tires are too worn out to be very effective regardless of the wheel hop, Believe it or not I usually ride with 50 psi in them. Once, when I was stuck, I lowered them down to about 10 psi and it still didn't help much. When it starts hopping it'll be a perfectly smooth dirt trail, it just gets deeper and softer and then their rear end starts bouncing around.

 

[Blandy]

96-01 5.0 explorers have rear traction bars those will help keep wheel hop under control as well as a good set of shocks and leaf springs that are not 200k miles and worn out

Are they regular looking traction bars? Wouldn't they catch trash? I did replace the horizontal shock back there but it made no difference.

 

[wollimann]

The
Explorer/Mountaineer
anti-windup bar on a V8 are OEM (if equipped) and should reduce axle wrap, so it will/could reduce wheel hop too.

https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/attachments/picture-177-jpg.23584/

But it looks like the brackets are welded on the axle tube.

The horizontal shock has nothing to do with wheel hop.

I have a LSD, but not sure how good it is.

If the LSD clutch plates are in good conditions or updated to carbon disks, it will help to gain a little more traction.
In 50% the lock bolt will brake while disassembling, very annoying!
The OEM clutch/steel setup is not optimal, there is a optimized setup out there.

Best and the most expensive way is a 8.8 EATON true trac differential.

 

[410Fortune]

Or arb locker

Nice how the v8 traction bars are above the spring

The 3rd shock is blah I remove that sucker asap the replacements are cheap garbage anyways

The traction bars and 3rd shock are limiting your flex while providing traction.
The rangers and bronco2 have fore and aft shocks setup to help fight axle wrap. The explorer didn’t get that setup, which is why i
Figured they came with the 3rd shock??hahaha fight axle wrap? No?

Lots of time to think about this stuff when your underneath them wrenching on them for 30+ years!!!

 

[Blandy]

The
Explorer/Mountaineer
anti-windup bar on a V8 are OEM (if equipped) and should reduce axle wrap, so it will/could reduce wheel hop too.
View attachment 466813View attachment 466814View attachment 466815View attachment 466816
View attachment 466818

https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/attachments/picture-177-jpg.23584/

But it looks like the brackets are welded on the axle tube.
View attachment 466819
View attachment 466820


The horizontal shock has nothing to do with wheel hop.


If the LSD clutch plates are in good conditions or updated to carbon disks, it will help to gain a little more traction.
In 50% the lock bolt will brake while disassembling, very annoying!
The OEM clutch/steel setup is not optimal, there is a optimized setup out there.View attachment 466817

Best and the most expensive way is a 8.8 EATON true trac differential.

 

[Turdle]

3rd shock won't limit flex as it's mounted to the center diff. It will eliminate resonant road vibrations.
Traction bars will inhibit full drop or tuck though, and force the axle forward, rearward due to the arc of travel

 

[Blandy]

Wow, I bought a pair of standard chrome 28" traction bars from TEMU for about $65. Hopefully they won't catch much debris. I like the V8 setup, but I'm happy with the 4.0 OHV. Guess they didn't realize with the LSD there's enough axle wrap to cause issues.

 

[wollimann]

standard chrome 28" traction bars

I think they are not intend for off road use

Amazon.com: Chrome Traction Bars - 28 Inch - Premium Construction 55020470 : Automotive

Buy Chrome Traction Bars - 28 Inch - Premium Construction 55020470: Rear Traction Bars - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

I am pretty sure they will not fit correctly, won't give any benefit and rust out in a year.

 

[Turdle]

They still make those?