Justin is going twin turbo...

Well, I just ordered two Borg Warner S200 turbochargers for my Explorer. With the new install, I will be moving everything towards the front- so it will be a mid mount setup. I am also changing my air/air intercooler with an air/water intercooler and adding water injection. I am not adding the water injection to add more power with timing- it will just be a safety precaution for hot days.

Changing from the single to the twins will allow me to keep my quick spool, but support more power. It came down to either a single T70 or these twins, and I chose the twins. It will probably be a little while before I start fabrication because I am remodeling my house. But I hope to have it running and retuned by the end of the year.

 

[justin146]

sweet man go for it! Why not get really into the fabrication and hook those suckers under the hood and then you could ditch the scavenge pump for some $$$$ and no oil drainback problems?

Because there is absolutely no room under the hood to put one, much less two. The 5.0 is so shoehorned in there that they had to come up with these crappy exhaust manifolds to make it fit between the frame rails. Troll fit a large frame turbo under the hood of his 5.0 Explorer, but he didnt have AC and used a Mustang accessory setup.

 

[justin146]

Couldn't find my camera, but I snapped a picture with my phone. These are currently painted John Deere engine tan/brown. I will probably get the compressors powdercoated and the turbines ceramic coated...

 

[Jakee]

Looking good. Keep em coming!

 

[turboexplorer]

Any more progress on the twins?

 

[CDW6212R]

Justin, do you also have AN 4 lines for the turbo oiling system?

 

[rocket 5979]

Justin, do you also have AN 4 lines for the turbo oiling system?

Pshh, bottle of Crisco epoxied to the top of each turbo!.... Whats all this oil return line stuff?!? :

 

[justin146]

Progress has been slow because I bought and remodeled a house right after this thread was made. I am currently in the process of building a shop so I can really tear into it. I have been measuring, and I may put these up front in a low mount config. I wont be able to tell where they will fit until I actually get it up on the lift.

I did have some CNC 1/2" flanges made with threaded holes (so I dont have to allow room for nuts on the back of the flange); I also have the mandrel bends for it all. Whatever the setup is, it will include the stainless FMS headers I have. I also plan on having it all ceramic coated.

 

[CDW6212R]

Pshh, bottle of Crisco epoxied to the top of each turbo!.... Whats all this oil return line stuff?!? :

The remote turbos have an oil feed line from the engine, and pump for returning it. I am going to pull one of the rear block galley plugs to pass oil up through the top of the rear of the block. I need two more pressure sensors, away from the front block port. I will need to make a short AN 4 line about eight inches long to reside in the space behind the block. Is any aftermarket kind of hose easier to work with than others?

 

[turboexplorer]

The remote turbos have an oil feed line from the engine, and pump for returning it. I am going to pull one of the rear block galley plugs to pass oil up through the top of the rear of the block. I need two more pressure sensors, away from the front block port. I will need to make a short AN 4 line about eight inches long to reside in the space behind the block. Is any aftermarket kind of hose easier to work with than others?

Are you in the process of turboing yours?

 

[justin146]

The remote turbos have an oil feed line from the engine, and pump for returning it. I am going to pull one of the rear block galley plugs to pass oil up through the top of the rear of the block. I need two more pressure sensors, away from the front block port. I will need to make a short AN 4 line about eight inches long to reside in the space behind the block. Is any aftermarket kind of hose easier to work with than others?

Why are you adding two more sensors? And yes, I have a -4 AN hose from a T on my oil pressure sensor. I hear the push lock stuff is easy to work with. With the braided AN stuff(that isnt push lock) , you either need to buy pre-made hoses or buy the crimp tool for them

 

[CDW6212R]

Thanks Justin, I will have to make a short line about 8" long. I will install the line in the backside of the block in front of the flexplate. I have 9.65:1 compression in this 347 to allow for mild boost.

I ran across a Mallory pre-lube pump that I will install in the truck, with an Amsoil bypass oil filter. The front will be used for those, and the oil sensor to shut off the Mallory pump needs to be away from the input location. I also want a real oil pressure gauge, so the back will be great for those three items. I have not looked, but I expect that the sensors will have to be mounted off of the engine, on the firewall. I have a lot of little stuff to do. Regards,

 

[Jakee]

No you don't. I just made a bunch of -6 fuel line using the russell stainless hose and jegs fittings. It's not hard - I'll help you with it if you need. Just ask.


I have something in common with this thread now. I'm twin turbo'ing a small block 383 with TPI injection. Got the engine and TPI set-up, but it's gonna wait until I get the priorities taken care of.

 

[rocket 5979]

For those of you making your own AN hoses I recommend Koul Tools fitting assembly kit. I have made many a AN hoses for the various custom fuel systems I have built as well as remote turbo oil feed lines. It is a pretty big PITA to insert the braided steel line into the fitting without twisting the wires at least a little and poking yourself 15 times in the fingers and drawing blood. The tape trick helps a little but it still is a fanagling process. THIS makes it much easier and less headache. Well worth the $75 if you find yourself making these lines more than a few times.

 

[turbo cat]

It is a pretty big PITA to insert the braided steel line into the fitting without twisting the wires at least a little and poking yourself 15 times in the fingers and drawing blood. .

Been there done that and dont want to do it again

 

[Jakee]

Well, let’s spread the knowledge.

I have no special tools and I didn’t want to buy any. I figured out how to do this easy along time ago with the help of my neighbor that's been doing this for years.

The trick is how you cut the line in the first place. If you use a miter saw with a metal part-off blade, it makes adding the OD fitting a bunch easier.

First thing is a little info about AN fittings. AN stands for (ARMY/NAVY)

Second thing is if you want to know what the AN size is in inches, just divide the AN size by 16

Examples-

-4 = 4/16 = .250 converted to a fraction = ¼
-5 = 5/16 = .312 converted to a fraction = 5/16
-6 = 6/16 = .375 converted to a fraction = 3/8
-8 = 8/16 = .500 converted to a fraction = ½
-10 = 10/16 = .625 converted to a fraction = 5/8

O.D. = Outer diameter
I.D. = Inner diameter

1) Cut the line with a metal part off blade on your wood cutting miter saw. (I know everyone has a miter saw, right?) My set up is a 10” Miter saw with the part off blade.

2) Blow the line out.

3) Take the little cap off an oil quart and fill with oil.

4) Dip the cut line end in the oil and shake the excess off.

5) Work the O.D. fitting over the little stainless frays.

6) Press the face end of the O.D. fitting against a solid surface. (You will be holding the line about 6" from the fitting and pressing so that there is pressure on the fitting) It's better to use a wall as the surface so you can apply pressure with your body.

7) Place an adjustable wrench on the fitting and twist as your applying pressure to the fitting. Keep doing this and checking the progress. You want the hose end all the way flush with the little cavity in the I.D. of the fitting. ***You can wrap the fitting in a rag before putting the wrench on it to avoid damage. I really haven’t noticed big damage to the fitting by not doing this but you have to make sure the wrench is adjusted with no slack. The ideal way is to have aluminum wrenches for AN fittings.

8) Dip the second pc of the fitting in the cap of oil.

9) Place it in the hose assembly and start to screw it together.

10) Keep reference to the line and the first fitting pc you added. You can do this by making a mark where the fitting is in relation to the hose, or just place your hand on the fitting where it meets the hose while your turning to make sure it’s not separating. Again, you want to make sure it's not slipping back off the line while your turning. I've found that if you make sure to butt the line all the way in the cavity of the first O.D. fitting, the line will not back off. The only time I've had the line back off is when I didn't do this.

11) Blow the line out again.

12) Done deal

Different hose and fittings companies are different. I've found Russell line and Jegs fittings to be a cost effective, and easy assembly for making these lines.

If your lazy then just go here. http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=FEED&Category_Code=OIL

 

[rocket 5979]

Well, let’s spread the knowledge.

I have no special tools and I didn’t want to buy any. I figured out how to do this easy along time ago with the help of my neighbor that's been doing this for years.

The trick is how you cut the line in the first place. If you use a miter saw with a metal part-off blade, it makes adding the OD fitting a bunch easier.

First thing is a little info about AN fittings. AN stands for (ARMY/NAVY)

Second thing is if you want to know what the AN size is in inches, just divide the AN size by 16

Examples-

-4 = 4/16 = .250 converted to a fraction = ¼
-5 = 5/16 = .312 converted to a fraction = 5/16
-6 = 6/16 = .375 converted to a fraction = 3/8
-8 = 8/16 = .500 converted to a fraction = ½
-10 = 10/16 = .625 converted to a fraction = 5/8

O.D. = Outer diameter
I.D. = Inner diameter

1) Cut the line with a metal part off blade on your wood cutting miter saw. (I know everyone has a miter saw, right?) My set up is a 10” Miter saw with the part off blade.

2) Blow the line out.

3) Take the little cap off an oil quart and fill with oil.

4) Dip the cut line end in the oil and shake the excess off.

5) Work the O.D. fitting over the little stainless frays.

6) Press the face end of the O.D. fitting against a solid surface. (You will be holding the line about 6" from the fitting and pressing so that there is pressure on the fitting) It's better to use a wall as the surface so you can apply pressure with your body.

7) Place an adjustable wrench on the fitting and twist as your applying pressure to the fitting. Keep doing this and checking the progress. You want the hose end all the way flush with the little cavity in the I.D. of the fitting. ***You can wrap the fitting in a rag before putting the wrench on it to avoid damage. I really haven’t noticed big damage to the fitting by not doing this but you have to make sure the wrench is adjusted with no slack. The ideal way is to have aluminum wrenches for AN fittings.

8) Dip the second pc of the fitting in the cap of oil.

9) Place it in the hose assembly and start to screw it together.

10) Keep reference to the line and the first fitting pc you added. You can do this by making a mark where the fitting is in relation to the hose, or just place your hand on the fitting where it meets the hose while your turning to make sure it’s not separating. Again, you want to make sure it's not slipping back off the line while your turning. I've found that if you make sure to butt the line all the way in the cavity of the first O.D. fitting, the line will not back off. The only time I've had the line back off is when I didn't do this.

11) Blow the line out again.

12) Done deal

While this is a fine tutorial, "5) Work the O.D. fitting over the little stainless frays." is not as easy as it sounds. Even when careful it takes a little bit of time to do it properly. The rest after that is a piece of cake. The most difficult portion to making your own AN lines is this step and unfortunately dipping the line in oil will not prevent this.

If you do choose to not use special tools for this then I recommend that you use a thin sheet of metal that is pliable enough to bend but stable enough to handle a little pressure. Roll it to a size that is ever so slightly smaller than the inlet of the fitting. Then immobilize the fitting and "funnel". Insert lubed line through the roll and press into the fitting with a small twisting motion. Do not use too much twisting otherwise it may bend the exposed wires.

The other option is to use needlenose pliers and just incrementally go around the fitting and push the wires back under the flare of the fitting. It will take a little patience but it will require the lest amount of special tools.

 

[CDW6212R]

Thanks for the tips guys, I have ordered my needed block fittings and Y-blocks. I did buy the kit from Jeg's for the AN fittings. I believe I'd like to make my trans cooler lines with the Pro Flex. I'd use their Classic hose which looks more OEM, but it's almost 50% more than the full SS line.

Are the Jeg's AN line fittings cheaper, as you suggest them, and do they come in black or near to SS in color? I really like the Summit site better for searching for items, the Jeg's site is tough. You almost have to know the complete description or part number to find things. How are those fittings described? I'm after AN -6 lines for the trans.

From glancing at my firewall it looks like a simple brass 1/8" NPT T-fitting will work best for adding sensors. I do need to find out how large the sensors are before buying the "T" fittings though.

FYI I also received an Amsoil order today, including an oil bypass filter and mounting adapter. I haven't checked to see if it will fit like my trans filter did. The mounting adapter is only $20+S&H&T though. That's a bargain if you can put together the fittings and hoses etc. feasibly. I'll buy one for my other truck also. Regards,

 

[MustangP51]

Defiantly subscribing to this, I have always wanted to add a turbo to my 5.0

 

[Spdrcer34]

I have assembled my fair share of S/S AN hoses...

-4 hoses are a ROYAL PITA to assemble with out the special tools outlined here already.

-6 hoses are CAKE compared to -4, but still a little on the difficult side for someone that has never assembled one.

-8 and larger are simple. You shouldn't have any problems if you use tape.

Ryan

 

[Jakee]

I found it easier at the jegs site to use the categories on the left side of the screen. Go to "Fuel & Induction", and then go to "Fuel fittings, hose & lines". The jegs fittings are good quality and they do come in black. I used the polished aluminum version and they work well. I've used Russell, Aeroquip and summit but I like the Jegs fittings because of the way they go on the line; I thought they were cheaper? I just compared a -6 straight fitting and that wasn't the case. Heck, they're all good and you can't go wrong.

I tell you what a bugger to assembly is. A -4 Teflon inner lined hose. That little task didn't work out so good for me - I wound up shearing the fitting trying to tighten, and that was after spending an hour making the brass farrow fit on the Teflon inner lining.