DP96XLT
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- November 29, 2019
- Messages
- 124
- Reaction score
- 49
- City, State
- New Berlin, WI
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 1996 Explorer XLT 4WD
Hey guys, I was finally able to setup an account and decided to get some input. J_C commented on it on "the other forum", but the usernames are the same...
First off, I picked up a 1996 Explorer XLT 4wd with the 4.0l OHV engine. It only had just under 42k miles on it. It must have been in a time capsule or something, given the fact there is ZERO rust anywhere on the body and only surface stuff underneath (basically every bolt/nut I have removed has broken free pretty easily and come out and been reused). Most of the frame still has the factory black paint on it. The interior is totally clean (light gray) and it rides without any rattles/noises. Even the doors close like a new vehicle. All electronics work, all power windows work. Like I said it is damn near a "new vehicle", regardless of the age/miles.
Here is a listing of what I have taken care of to date. I read up a whole bunch on the forum here and decided to take care of what I thought would be longer-term stuff so I could get it out of the way.
I do remember reading up on transmission issues, and even though the 1995/1996 4R55E transmissions are supposed to have less valve body gasket blow-out issues than the later 5R55E units, I still decided to replace the valve body with a rebuilt unit that had the trans-go kit already installed that I picked it up from Shift Rite transmissions on Illinois.
The list:
- Installed new transmission valve body with new transmission filter
- Installed new transmission drain pan with a drain plug
- Did the transmission bands adjustment (OD turned in 1/4 turn more than it was originally set at, intermediate was exactly the same pre and post adjustment)
- Changed transmission fluid to Valvoline MaxLife synthetic ATF (did the initial fill after VB change and then drained the pan once more after running it for 5 minutes through the gears to mix with old fluid still in the torque converter)
- Changed transfer case fluid to Valvoline MaxLife synthetic ATF
- Changed out the belt tensioner (original was bouncing), tensioner pulley, idler pulley and belt with Gates stuff
- Changed out the alternator (original was knocking at low rpms in drive, gotta love old bearings)
- Changed out the fan clutch (original was not engaging at temp and not releasing fully below temp)
- Flushed and bleed the brakes with new fluid
- Installed all new Rancho 9000XL shocks all around, replaced the 5th shock with a Monroe OE replacement
- Installed new 43-1159 rear leaf springs (original owner put in 43-967 springs and I thought the drivers side was sagging because of it) with new u-bolts
- Installed new Motorcraft OEM spark plugs
- Installed new Autolite ignition wires
- Did an oil change with new Ford OEM filter (400s if I remember correctly) and Mobil1 synthetic High Mileage 5W30
- Changed front diff oil to Mobil1 synthetic LS 75W90
- Changed rear diff oil to Mobil1 synthetic LS 75W140 (with about .6qt being 75w90 because I ran out)
- Reset ride height (required front passenger torsion bolt to be almost totally turned out, 1.5 thread showing under key, but resulting in perfect level left to right and front to back, ie, under running boards there is exactly 10.5" front and rear on both sides, if there is supposed to be a rake with the back up higher I would have no way of accomplishing it the way it sits)
- New stainless tapered spring for spare winch cable end (original plastic spacer crumbled when I removed it)
- New air filter and wiper blades
- New OEM steering wheel (the one that was with it when I bought it was NOT the original as it was heavily worn and the buttons were stiff and cracking, which not NOT on par with anything else on the vehicle)
- New OEM cruise control buttons (I decided to let them be in green to match the door window switches, yet all the rest of the dash is blue, but I still have the original switches and I just need to replace the bulbs so I can swap back to them if I want blue for those switches as well at some point)
- Alignment done (only the toe was out and the steering wheel off-center, everything else was within specs)
- Drained and filled power steering with Lucas power steering fluid along with a bottle of Lucas stop leak (to quiet the power steering)
After all the above it drives and handles beautifully. It idles smooth and even, basically runs as if new. During a rain recently I actuated the brakes hard enough to get ABS to engage, and it just didn't sound right the first time or two. After 3-4 times of doing that it sounded "normal" as if they were never actuated before. By the 5th hard stop it sounded completely as you would expect a Ford ABS system to sound. While it was raining out I activated 4WD Low and verified the lockup thunk and drove it a bit to verify that all 4 wheels are indeed locked in.
Everything outside of the rear leaf springs seemed to be original and OEM. As I mentioned, everything came out beautifully for maintenance and replacement. The only strange thing is that the torsion bar adjustment for the passenger side needed to be adjusted so far out to level out the vehicle.
The battery was from 2012-2016 (hard to read a date code on a AAA branded battery), but I pulled it and did a full recharge/recondition set of cycles and it load tests perfect (they did have a on-board battery maintainer that I removed).
The tires are Goodyear Wrangler SR-As in 235/75R15 with date codes of 3616 for all (so newer from 2016). I am not certain about keeping them because they don't seem to be the best tires out there and I have been eyeing up some General Grabber AT/X tires to replace them. I originally ordered a set of Nokian WRG3 SUV tires, but when I got 3 of a 2018 date code and 1 of a 2015 and they cannot find me another 2018 or newer tire because they are discontinued, I am just sending all 4 back.
When I do tires I will be replacing the spare with a 5th of the same, as I have zero doubt the spare is original and unserviceable at this point.
In regards to the power steering fluid change, I did the same thing to our 69k mile 2002 Mustang V6 and it totally got rid of the power steering noise, so I followed the same routine here and there is only a slight hint of power steering noise on cold startup and that is gone after 5-10 seconds, so I figure it will be totally gone after a few thousand miles.
I did notice after getting everything done that it idles very quietly and I am noticing a squeaking from the radiator area, so I thinking it is either the waterpump or the new fan clutch.
Now the few things I am planning on doing here shortly (already have the parts or ordered them):
- Replace the brake pads with ceramic ones (after bleeding the brakes the front right pad starts squealing when not being actuated)
- Install K&N FIPK intake system
- Install Gibson stainless single tip exhaust (I think the original muffler has a broken baffle or something, unless I am just not used to the exhaust sound this engine makes under acceleration)
- Drain and flush coolant
- Install new waterpump
- Install new thermostat (Motorad ultra-stat @ 198f)
- Put in new long-life coolant
If the squeaking sound from the front at idle isn't gone I will replace the new fan clutch (I bought everything I could with lifetime replacement warranty parts locally so if I have to replace anything it is done quick with no extra expense on the parts themselves).
In regards to the exhaust, this engine sounds nothing like the engine in the Mustang, or any other V6 I have ever known. I am thinking it has to do with something in regards to the stock muffler, regardless of how good of a shape it is in externally (heat shields are perfect and everything is solid), I am thinking it has in internal issue or something. Unless someone else can verify that these do, in fact sound quite different, I am planning on putting in the Gibson exhaust and just accepting how it sounds regardless.
I mean it has "decent enough" power off the line, can pass on the highway nicely and doesn't feel anemic (actually feel quite a bit torquier than the Mustang V6). But, who am I kidding, more power is ALWAYS acceptable.
The one last thing I have been looking at is headers. I can still get a set of JBA headers in stainless steel (I am very big on all stainless exhaust components) for a not-so-bad price. I have read they really are not needed on the 4.0l OHV engines, but if I have the K&N intake system, Gibson exhaust and if I plan on using a SCT X4 to put a tune into it, would it be worthwhile to do the headers then?
I also scored a Clarion subwoofer for it off eBay, brand new in the box and it replaces the netted cargo pocket in the back with a 10" subwoofer. For now I have a bluetooth RF adapter I plug into the lighter for hands-free, but I may put in a full navigation headunit and change out the speakers for something nice from the aftermarket along with an outboard amp to replace the stock one in the side panel in back. I figure if I do all that outside of the headunit it will all be pretty much invisible and not take away any cargo room.
Ever since we got rid of our conversion van last may we really don't have anything to transport "stuff" with at all. I have a couple of Lincolns and a few sports cars (I won't mention those, because they are from the "other camp"), but nothing for hauling, so this fits the bill well.
I originally bought the Explorer for my daughter to use for college, but it is in such perfect condition I cannot see letting it reside in a parking lot where a bunch of teenagers and those in their early 20s will door ding the heck out of it. So I picked up a high-mileage 2001 Acura TL for her to drive instead (and she actually likes the Acura better than the Explorer).
Any and all input on what I have done already and what my plans for doing to it is greatly appreciated.
First off, I picked up a 1996 Explorer XLT 4wd with the 4.0l OHV engine. It only had just under 42k miles on it. It must have been in a time capsule or something, given the fact there is ZERO rust anywhere on the body and only surface stuff underneath (basically every bolt/nut I have removed has broken free pretty easily and come out and been reused). Most of the frame still has the factory black paint on it. The interior is totally clean (light gray) and it rides without any rattles/noises. Even the doors close like a new vehicle. All electronics work, all power windows work. Like I said it is damn near a "new vehicle", regardless of the age/miles.
Here is a listing of what I have taken care of to date. I read up a whole bunch on the forum here and decided to take care of what I thought would be longer-term stuff so I could get it out of the way.
I do remember reading up on transmission issues, and even though the 1995/1996 4R55E transmissions are supposed to have less valve body gasket blow-out issues than the later 5R55E units, I still decided to replace the valve body with a rebuilt unit that had the trans-go kit already installed that I picked it up from Shift Rite transmissions on Illinois.
The list:
- Installed new transmission valve body with new transmission filter
- Installed new transmission drain pan with a drain plug
- Did the transmission bands adjustment (OD turned in 1/4 turn more than it was originally set at, intermediate was exactly the same pre and post adjustment)
- Changed transmission fluid to Valvoline MaxLife synthetic ATF (did the initial fill after VB change and then drained the pan once more after running it for 5 minutes through the gears to mix with old fluid still in the torque converter)
- Changed transfer case fluid to Valvoline MaxLife synthetic ATF
- Changed out the belt tensioner (original was bouncing), tensioner pulley, idler pulley and belt with Gates stuff
- Changed out the alternator (original was knocking at low rpms in drive, gotta love old bearings)
- Changed out the fan clutch (original was not engaging at temp and not releasing fully below temp)
- Flushed and bleed the brakes with new fluid
- Installed all new Rancho 9000XL shocks all around, replaced the 5th shock with a Monroe OE replacement
- Installed new 43-1159 rear leaf springs (original owner put in 43-967 springs and I thought the drivers side was sagging because of it) with new u-bolts
- Installed new Motorcraft OEM spark plugs
- Installed new Autolite ignition wires
- Did an oil change with new Ford OEM filter (400s if I remember correctly) and Mobil1 synthetic High Mileage 5W30
- Changed front diff oil to Mobil1 synthetic LS 75W90
- Changed rear diff oil to Mobil1 synthetic LS 75W140 (with about .6qt being 75w90 because I ran out)
- Reset ride height (required front passenger torsion bolt to be almost totally turned out, 1.5 thread showing under key, but resulting in perfect level left to right and front to back, ie, under running boards there is exactly 10.5" front and rear on both sides, if there is supposed to be a rake with the back up higher I would have no way of accomplishing it the way it sits)
- New stainless tapered spring for spare winch cable end (original plastic spacer crumbled when I removed it)
- New air filter and wiper blades
- New OEM steering wheel (the one that was with it when I bought it was NOT the original as it was heavily worn and the buttons were stiff and cracking, which not NOT on par with anything else on the vehicle)
- New OEM cruise control buttons (I decided to let them be in green to match the door window switches, yet all the rest of the dash is blue, but I still have the original switches and I just need to replace the bulbs so I can swap back to them if I want blue for those switches as well at some point)
- Alignment done (only the toe was out and the steering wheel off-center, everything else was within specs)
- Drained and filled power steering with Lucas power steering fluid along with a bottle of Lucas stop leak (to quiet the power steering)
After all the above it drives and handles beautifully. It idles smooth and even, basically runs as if new. During a rain recently I actuated the brakes hard enough to get ABS to engage, and it just didn't sound right the first time or two. After 3-4 times of doing that it sounded "normal" as if they were never actuated before. By the 5th hard stop it sounded completely as you would expect a Ford ABS system to sound. While it was raining out I activated 4WD Low and verified the lockup thunk and drove it a bit to verify that all 4 wheels are indeed locked in.
Everything outside of the rear leaf springs seemed to be original and OEM. As I mentioned, everything came out beautifully for maintenance and replacement. The only strange thing is that the torsion bar adjustment for the passenger side needed to be adjusted so far out to level out the vehicle.
The battery was from 2012-2016 (hard to read a date code on a AAA branded battery), but I pulled it and did a full recharge/recondition set of cycles and it load tests perfect (they did have a on-board battery maintainer that I removed).
The tires are Goodyear Wrangler SR-As in 235/75R15 with date codes of 3616 for all (so newer from 2016). I am not certain about keeping them because they don't seem to be the best tires out there and I have been eyeing up some General Grabber AT/X tires to replace them. I originally ordered a set of Nokian WRG3 SUV tires, but when I got 3 of a 2018 date code and 1 of a 2015 and they cannot find me another 2018 or newer tire because they are discontinued, I am just sending all 4 back.
When I do tires I will be replacing the spare with a 5th of the same, as I have zero doubt the spare is original and unserviceable at this point.
In regards to the power steering fluid change, I did the same thing to our 69k mile 2002 Mustang V6 and it totally got rid of the power steering noise, so I followed the same routine here and there is only a slight hint of power steering noise on cold startup and that is gone after 5-10 seconds, so I figure it will be totally gone after a few thousand miles.
I did notice after getting everything done that it idles very quietly and I am noticing a squeaking from the radiator area, so I thinking it is either the waterpump or the new fan clutch.
Now the few things I am planning on doing here shortly (already have the parts or ordered them):
- Replace the brake pads with ceramic ones (after bleeding the brakes the front right pad starts squealing when not being actuated)
- Install K&N FIPK intake system
- Install Gibson stainless single tip exhaust (I think the original muffler has a broken baffle or something, unless I am just not used to the exhaust sound this engine makes under acceleration)
- Drain and flush coolant
- Install new waterpump
- Install new thermostat (Motorad ultra-stat @ 198f)
- Put in new long-life coolant
If the squeaking sound from the front at idle isn't gone I will replace the new fan clutch (I bought everything I could with lifetime replacement warranty parts locally so if I have to replace anything it is done quick with no extra expense on the parts themselves).
In regards to the exhaust, this engine sounds nothing like the engine in the Mustang, or any other V6 I have ever known. I am thinking it has to do with something in regards to the stock muffler, regardless of how good of a shape it is in externally (heat shields are perfect and everything is solid), I am thinking it has in internal issue or something. Unless someone else can verify that these do, in fact sound quite different, I am planning on putting in the Gibson exhaust and just accepting how it sounds regardless.
I mean it has "decent enough" power off the line, can pass on the highway nicely and doesn't feel anemic (actually feel quite a bit torquier than the Mustang V6). But, who am I kidding, more power is ALWAYS acceptable.
The one last thing I have been looking at is headers. I can still get a set of JBA headers in stainless steel (I am very big on all stainless exhaust components) for a not-so-bad price. I have read they really are not needed on the 4.0l OHV engines, but if I have the K&N intake system, Gibson exhaust and if I plan on using a SCT X4 to put a tune into it, would it be worthwhile to do the headers then?
I also scored a Clarion subwoofer for it off eBay, brand new in the box and it replaces the netted cargo pocket in the back with a 10" subwoofer. For now I have a bluetooth RF adapter I plug into the lighter for hands-free, but I may put in a full navigation headunit and change out the speakers for something nice from the aftermarket along with an outboard amp to replace the stock one in the side panel in back. I figure if I do all that outside of the headunit it will all be pretty much invisible and not take away any cargo room.
Ever since we got rid of our conversion van last may we really don't have anything to transport "stuff" with at all. I have a couple of Lincolns and a few sports cars (I won't mention those, because they are from the "other camp"), but nothing for hauling, so this fits the bill well.
I originally bought the Explorer for my daughter to use for college, but it is in such perfect condition I cannot see letting it reside in a parking lot where a bunch of teenagers and those in their early 20s will door ding the heck out of it. So I picked up a high-mileage 2001 Acura TL for her to drive instead (and she actually likes the Acura better than the Explorer).
Any and all input on what I have done already and what my plans for doing to it is greatly appreciated.