Completed Project Stic-o's 2nd gen. radius arm/coil SAS

Well it's Finaly Time to Start this thread.

Intro
In April of 2006 I will be doing a Solid Axle Swap on my '99 Explorer XL. Through the entire prosess I will be takink pics and updateing when there is is new info. I've pretty much always known I was going to do a SAS in my truck all along. For this reason, I have never but a dime into my front axle. I just never saw the point if I was going to rip it out.

The Plan

I plan to run a High Pinion Dana 44 full width in the front. I will be using Early Bronco Coils, posiablly 5.5" lift coils. I am still unsure of what I will be using for Radius arms, as we are still in the works. I would like to do a 3 link in the front but I don't think it's possiable with the cast wedges. I will be running 5.13 gears and plan to use anywhere from a 35" tire to a 37" tire, depending what I find. In the rear, I will be going to a 86-96 full width 8.8 off a Bronco/F-150. This will give me the ability to keep my speedometer, as well as reuseing my current locker, BTF Cover, and Disc Brakes. This will also give me a 5x5.5 pattern, and width almost dead on with the front. I would also like to move the rear leaf springs to the outside of the frame with the FW 8.8 to get rid of the spring hangers under the back doors that we all get caught on.

There alot of things still unsure, and I will figure it out as I go. Unfortally only small things will be done, until late March. Lack of funds will keep me from doing much until then. The axle will be set to go in the truck in April sometime though. Now let get to the goods. Pictures


The Meat

A side dish of parts

I can't wait for dessert

 

[Jefe]

Caster is the angle between the ball joints and the ground. I imagine that 7* bushings are too much since your arms are modified to provide additional caster.
Too little caster and the truck will wander, but be controllable, too much and it will go whichever way it feels like, following the road contour.
I beleive I'm running about 9-10* right now and would like to reduce that even more, but my adjustable arms are maxed out. I think I started out at almost 20* though.

 

[section525]

Just becareful not to tear apart your clockspring when you disconnect the steering shaft. Try not to let the wheel turn at all (while not connected to the steering box). The clockspring only allows for something like three and a half turns of the wheel each way.

 

[tdavis]

So, a quick test - park it on a level surface, and slap an angle finder on the bottom ball joint.

It really shouldn't be more 7*.

 

[410Fortune]

say what now about this clock spring? How do you know when its FUBAR'ed?

I didnt turn my wheel when I was playing with the steering shaft, but I did have that shaft out about 47 times....now Sections' got me all worried about my clock spring....this sucker is the connection to the airbag through the wheel right?

 

[Stic-o]

say what now about this clock spring? How do you know when its FUBAR'ed?

I didnt turn my wheel when I was playing with the steering shaft, but I did have that shaft out about 47 times....now Sections' got me all worried about my clock spring....this sucker is the connection to the airbag through the wheel right?

me too I don't want that thing blowing up in my face. mine has a slight bind and noice in the sterring wheel, when you turn it too lock on the driver side. sound like plastic winding up or something.

I'll check on the caster, remember these are Michaels old arms and they were originally set to mount on the sides of the frame. My mount under.

 

[section525]

Say you pull into your driveway and the wheels are straight. Your clock spring will allow you to only turn the wheel about 3.5 turns each way before it runs out of wire and pulls the connection apart.

So, if you pull in and disconnect the steering shaft, then while the steering wheel is loose it turns a couple turns one direction, and you hook the steering wheel back up, your clockspring can only turn 1.5 turns the one direction and now 5.5 times the other (which you could never do anyways). But once you turn the wheel more than 1.5 turns it will just rip the connections out (shutting off the cruise control and the Air bag light will come on). Which isn't all that big of a deal because your airbag system will shut itself off.

Stic.. it sounds like you may have fubar'd yours. Does the cruise still work?

 

[section525]

I did this when I did my body swap 4 years ago or whatever. So I've had a broken spring since then.

 

[410Fortune]

ah good my cruise still works.......phew!

good to know, thanks Section

 

[tdavis]

I'll check on the caster, remember these are Michaels old arms and they were originally set to mount on the sides of the frame. My mount under.

I'd put the stock C bushings back in.

I'll bet you have way too much caster.

 

[Jefe]

Digging up a post from a couple pages ago because I just found my picture

Also I don't think my leafs will last to much longer, they are starting to look like ocean waves I'll probally just find another set of explorer ones to put on for now.

Just be sure to change them out before they look like this.

 

[Stic-o]

Stic.. it sounds like you may have fubar'd yours. Does the cruise still work?

What Cruise....Never Had it Mine is a XL, and never came with it. and no Air bag light, so I guess I'm good



Jefe~ I think it's too late then


Tom~ I'll get a mesurment, and see if it need to be changed

 

[Jefe]

So are we ready for a test run yet?

 

[section525]

If he can drive it to shoes.com he should be able to take it up to the Newhall hills!

 

[Stic-o]

driving...yes...sort of. I'm getting a vibration over 35mph and I think it the d-shaft. I just need to try to ballance my homemade 2" spacer. Can't afford a new d-shaft till October. and I'm still don't have my front d-shaft in. I just need to extend my front one and replace the joints. rally need to replace the joints in the front axle, cause they are all screwed up too. Still need to get it aligned, and the passenger side is sitting a 1 1/2" higher Also need to build a crosmemberfor under the engine. I would say I'll be ready in mid october.

 

[IZwack]

for the crossmember, cant u just do what section did? put one at the very front and call it a day?

i would go this route cauz there might not be much room for a crossmember between the oil pan and the top of the differential at full stuff

 

[section525]

Or do what Robb did utilzing the old d35 tabs...?

 

[Stic-o]

for the crossmember, cant u just do what section did? put one at the very front and call it a day?

Well in that case I have a piece of 1/4" angle there now. and once I get the front bumper mounted it will tie it all togeter even more. I want to build a cross member out of tube and use the original front axle mounts. I probally need jefe to help me out with his bender though

 

[IZwack]

My local MIDAS shop did the bends for my panhard. I kinda know a guy there so all I had to do was give him $10 And it is one complicated panhard bar

Anyways, most muffler shops typically have a hydraulic bender so just throwing out another option

 

[Kirby N.]

I bent mine in my $60 Harbor Freight Pipe bender. Bends that DOM no prob!

 

[Stic-o]

So in trying to solve some issues I think we found more problems Need to find a way to temporyly balance the D-shaft, or just stay under 35mph. THe steering Box has to be replaced, ther is a clicking noice coming from the box, so I'm guessing one of the gears is wearing. It's easier to just grab another box from the JY vs. rebuilding it. Picked ub some metal to lengthen the front driveshaft, but the front shaft have to be replaced before it can go off road. I can't them to hold the c-clips in and the u-joint is almost falling out of the passanger side right now. So despite all the headaches I did get to flex the front out a little today. stiill has ways to go to bottom out too.

In the past week I've been messing around with some grip tape I bought for the sliders a while back. I got a little artistic with them Let me know what you guys think.

These are for the front doors.

..and these are for the back doors.

and of corse I can't forgetm we are having a problem finding something high enough to flex on....So we desided to solve that and start another project, they we'll be able to take to T-haven and stuff.


10 ft of steel at 30*