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Post number 3327 has been selected as best answered.

That used to be side by side with Dollywood in Sevierville. That one got bought out and moved, and Dollywood got bigger. Tourism, a nice place to visit, but traffic from hell.
 



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SDC is huge in Branson. The owners also own a water park(White Water), Another amusement park (Celebration City) and a showboat (Branson Belle) that is an old paddle wheel steamer that takes you out on the lake for a few hours. Big dinner and entertainment on the stage while cruising Table Rock Lake.

She is a good size boat :D

sbb_boat6_lg.jpg

sbb_boat4_lg.jpg

sbb_07house_lg.jpg
 






That paddleboat ride sound's awesome. Make for a great night out!
 


















Went hunting today. Tracked down a set of F-150 leaf springs. :D

There sitting on the saw horses waiting to be field dressed, (cleaned & painted) and installed using the ex main leaf, a custom leaf,and an add a leaf. I need to go get new pins still and wait for the monsoon to stop outside. Then it's game time!
 






It's an elusive critter the F-150 leaf spring. Glad you flushed 'em out!
 






Game on, always eager to see new pics of your Build!
 






The rains parted ways for a couple days, so I attacked the leaf spring mod while the sun was shining. The objective was to maintain the amount of lift that the custom leafs and extended shackles offered, minus the war153 shackles.

I went to a spring shop here and there is a man who is very well known in both the off road racing and drag strip racing world. He builds custom leaf packs for well known drivers/owners across the country. I shot the breeze with him for a good long time and learned a couple things.

According to him, the slider pads between the leafs are only installed for a human creature comfort. They eliminate squeals from the leafs sliding on each other, and that's it. He also informed me that in newer HD trucks the manufacturers are now just using lithium grease instead of the plastic pads. The pads leave a gap in the leafs at the ends and in fact make them weaker. For stronger packs, he removes all the sliders. He told me for any packs he builds for recreational use where they are being used for extreme use, they are removed. He does suggest leaving the spacer shim on the overload spring. Another thing, is to never weld on a leaf as it will weaken them severely and can cause premature breakage. Powdercoating is also frowned upon as heat is an enemy. These are made from a high carbon spring steel, and are tempered. (I found out how hard these are from having to use a carbon bit in a big drill press to make a bolt hole wider on the add a leaf). To shape an arch in a leaf a hydro press and a anvil / sledge hammer is used. He told me a story of using a tree stump and a mini sledge for a trail repair in the middle of nowhere once. LOL

The F-150 leafs are off a 92 2wd. These are 2.5" in width (4wd are 3") and are 5 leaf packs. Years '80-96 are what your after for this mod. After cutting off the stock center pins and leaf clamps, the main leaf is discarded. The lower leafs, including the overload leaf is used.

Here is a nice spring chart to use for reference use.

leaf_springs%20chart_zps40iu4jdw.png


Here is the 4 lower leafs cleaned & painted.

paintedleafsloose.jpg


I re-used the Ex main leaf, a single leaf I had made from a spring shop that was added to my old packs, plus a short add a leaf. Here they are stacked and the 1/2" center pin bolt installed loose. You can see the arch diff in them. Each leaf you install in the packs will net you up to a 1/2" of lift. There are 7 leafs in these new packs.

packloosewithcenterpin.jpg


Use a couple C clamps to draw the leafs together, then simply tighten the nut on the center pin nice & tight.

packcompressed.jpg


Cut the bolt to size. You can leave a little of the stud on as it will fit inside the hole on the plate. Just don't leave too much of it.

centerpincut.jpg


I ended up using some 2.5" U-bolt style spring clamps until I can get a diff style. 2 flat stock bars with bolts are better to clamp them with than the U-bolt as it offers more surface contact and less stress to the leaf. As soon as I cut & drill some up, I will replace these. Here is the packs finished.

packfinished.jpg


Getting started with the install.

passsidepackinstall.jpg


Both sides installed with stock shackles.

packsinstalled.jpg


Before with war153 installed.

95warn153backon.jpg


After with stock shackles and new leafs.

finalheightfromnewpacks.jpg


Objective accomplished! I got 4" of lift with these new packs, and have the needed lift for the 35" tires. Total cost for these packs with hardware/paint.....$100


:D
 






I like, looks like they turned out good.
 






Excellent write up mate and great photo's. Awesome mod, especially for that price. Go you bloody legend:D:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
 












Thanks Greg, & Froader! Is it just me, or has this rig came a long way in the last year or so? LOL :)

I do have to add that I want to get new U-bolts. The stock size are pretty small compared to what can be used. The stockers are only like 3/8" & I want to get a set of 5/8" on there for the added strength. That means I have to drill out the holes a 1/4" wider on the plates. Sure it's a PITA, but I believe it's well worth it and will give me some peace of mind. Back to the spring shop on Monday for a new set of U-bolts. :D
 






I did the 5/8's bolts on my Ranger and drilling the Explorer plates were relatively easy...:biggthump your stock bolts are 1/2" ;)

..Have you decided if you were going to use 3-1/8" or 3-1/4" u-bolts?
 






I measured them with a caliper and they are 3/8". Maybe different on the ex than the ranger? Or they just call em 1/2" when they are not? Either way, I'm glad you chimed in and knowing you also did it makes me feel even better about it. :thumbsup:

Mine are a little harder because they are modified skids, (2 plates) and I cant get an impact on them. I have to use a very deep well socket to get to the nuts, and there just ain't enough room for the impact. I do use an air ratchet after they are broke loose to help speed it up some.
 






<snip>Another thing, is to never weld on a leaf as it will weaken them severely and can cause premature breakage. Powdercoating is also frowned upon as heat is an enemy. These are made from a high carbon spring steel, and are tempered. (I found out how hard these are from having to use a carbon bit in a big drill press to make a bolt hole wider on the add a leaf). To shape an arch in a leaf a hydro press and a anvil / sledge hammer is used. He told me a story of using a tree stump and a mini sledge for a trail repair in the middle of nowhere once. LOL <snip>

Did he say what to use to keep the srping from splaying apart without limiting travel? I can get 2" separation from my main spring and the 2nd leaf at full droop which is currently limited by shock length.

This is what I mean.

5673413883_d4ffbac1f4.jpg

Spring speration by maniak_az, on Flickr

~Mark
 






hmm, we powdercoated phillips leaf springs with no ill effects in two years. I'm not saying it's a good idea and won't cause problems though. We may have just gotten very luck with phillips. There is probably also a lot less weight on his most of the time than on an explorer, so I'm sure that helps things too.
 






Mark, he recommends them to be clamped together on at least one side, and if you can on both. Thinner leaves(lots of them too) is the only thing that will give us more flex, and articulation w/o being too stiff. I thought about not clamping them so they can articulate more, but wheeling where I do, there is too much brush that can get snagged in the gaps. Tree roots are stronger than one might think.

I brought up the idea of tack welding a U-bolt to the leafs just to stop them from going from side to side and getting out of alignment, that is when he informed me about heat and not welding to them at all.
 









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Thats a good idea Techie, as long as the bolts dont get into anything when flexed real hard. I like it tho. Still have the articulation and they wont splay out of alignment.
 






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