The Black Hole

[Turdle]

Those were washed and thrown into the rag bin. Good cheap packing material, and you have some new rags.

There were other things in there too ya know-

 

[gmanpaint]

Me Too! Haha!

Ok, Sorry Jon, but you can't send me a box of used socks, and not share that with everybody. Thanks for the unintended chuckle. They did do a real good job at what they was intended for.

When I seen how nice the Coils came out with the Dark Cherry powder, I started thinking of what else I could do with it. With this rig, it screams at you when you look at it already. The hood paint job gave it a personal custom look to the front, and I wanted something else, but very subtle to accent the sides. Anything more than subtle will push it into the plain obnoxious ghetto fab column. Trust me, it was extremely difficult for me to paint a brand new hood, out of a box, and airbrushing done by someone else. The hood is already obnoxious to me, as I tend to like plain Jane, de-badged Murdered out themes. But this rig is already past that now, so...

I found a used set of Metal 1953 Ford V8 Badges, and another set of older cast metal V8 badges, but I can't remember what year these came from. These all have the studs cast into them, and are too heavy for double sided tape, used on today's light weight plastic badges. So, I will have to drill holes for them. This new mod is yet another leap for me. Simple, small, Hardly noticeable, but......They shout volumes for what they are. Jon Shot them with the same Dark Cherry powder as on the coils.

I can't find the before pictures right now, but If I can find them, I will edit later.

Retro 1953 badges with flash on:

The other older set with flash on:

Now to choose which set to use on the front fenders, in front of the doors??? I like them both being different, then everything used on the 2nd gens. Hard choice for me!

 

[vroomzoomboom]

There were other things in there too ya know-

please dont say underwear, please dont say underwear, please dont say underwear, please dont say underwear.......

 

[Turdle]

please dont say underwear, please dont say underwear, please dont say underwear, please dont say underwear.......

No, I sent those to you. Ignore the DYI tie dye effects--

 

[gmanpaint]

Thanks @Turdle. Looks pretty slick, but now the rest looks like crap. lol

 

[Turdle]

Looks better in the picture. All we need now is another upper to make it black.

 

[gmanpaint]

Once the 1309 code and the 4wd system is figured out, then more Cosmo mods can happen. Lol

 

[gmanpaint]

Another ongoing project has distracted me from this rig, and I should be back to working on this thing soon.

Problems to sort out immediately are the current issues from the 5.0 swap.

1) P1309 code: Code is triggered after it has been running, and shut off, than restarted. Weird. I disconnect the battery after use each time, to drain the memory. It can go for 100 miles and no code. Stop, ie... for gas, restart, and bam, the code comes on. Happens every time.
2) Trans shift points are a mess: 2-3 is really delayed, and 3-4 is super quick. Downshift happens at 1/4 throttle, and kicks down 2 gears. Rpm's kick way up and with the rear locker, lane sway is instant, and makes the rig hard to handle with this violent action.
3) Temps rise to 205* with A/C on, but hovers around 198* w/o.
4) OD switch is not working, but OD stays on, and can't be shut off. Bad deal as this will be towing in the near future.
5) No 4wd currently: CAD wiring is wrong, and vac shift fork actuator does not respond correctly.
6) Battery tie down: Currently has nothing holding it to the stock tray.

Once those are ironed out (if ever), the ARB can be installed, the engine tuned, and small upgrades to it can happen. That list above is going to take some time to iron out, as I have no experience with some of it, and might end up seeking professional help, which costs $$ that I do not have right now for this thing. I already threw everything I could afford at it when all this work was done, and other builds are budgeted as well. Something has to suffer, as there just isn't enough to go around for all of it presently.

 

[CDW6212R]

#6 is the easy one, you just missing the plastic block and bolt there? #2/4/5 sound like wiring, in so much wiring that could take a long time. Look for any odd damaged wires, that's more likely than miss-pinned terminals.

Have you swapped the T'Stat out since getting it running? I like the Robert Shaw high flow 180* unit I put in last month. I think I'm lucky to have it opening earlier than the rating. I see 170's with lower outside temps(70-80*), and when it goes over 90* here, it runs in the 180* range. The high today was 202*(ScanGauge) and we were around 94, this with the AC on full for 3+ hours. I'd try a different T'Stat, and some Water Weter if you haven't.

What is code P1309?

 

[Dono]

#3 is a thermostat change to a 180 degree thermostat from the factory 198 degree unit.

P1309 probably has something to do with the camshaft position sensor.
Going to have to get a cps alignment tool for your year and check cps alignment with the motor at tdc cylinder 1. That's the cheapest start anyway.

 

[gmanpaint]

That list are items that have priority, and what I am attacking as soon as I have a chance to get to it. Lists helps this old man remember stuff, lol.

I am going to inspect the CMP before purchasing a compete unit, but might go ahead and replace the sensor regardless, if the flag on the cam looks good. I didn't realize you can do that, until Turdle informed me of this earlier today. (Thanks buddy)

Don, I have not really touched anything mechanical in the engine compartment on this, since it has returned from the swap. All these issues are as delivered back to me. I also didn't realize the stock T-stat was so damn high @198! sheesh. Thanks Dono.

I have no doubt that wiring is an issue with this thing, and it is my weak spot in knowledge and ability, so yeah, it can take me a while for that. All the messed up items that have been worked on and fixed took months as is. I had to step away from it for a while, as I was so mad, I was going to do something I would regret. My attention has been focused on other projects to get my mind off this nightmare, and decided to take a deep breath, forget about the past, and tackle one issue at a time. It's the only way people..... cough, I mean rig, is going to survive.

I am thankful for all the help moving forward any of you offer up, and can't do it without your help on this stuff. I will have technical questions when I begin tearing into it, and hoping for guidance along the way. Like they say in the movies.... Your my only hope.

 

[Dono]

The p1309 could be low battery/alternator also.
Are the battery connections good and clean? How is the idle?

Here's a thread, different motor, but it sure sounds exactly what us V8 guys live.
2001 ranger P1309 code...cant get light off - Ford F150 Forum

 

[Dono]

On the OD switch, my rig had the wire broken at the shifter in the console. It was an easy fix, I was able to just splice in a piece of wireso that there was more 'play' in the wire when shifting from park to Drive/reverse.

I have a feeling we will need to dig in to the wiring diagram on yours though and see where else that wire goes. It is electronic, so it might go straight to the pcm. If that's the case, I wonder if you will have exactly the same issue I had.

 

[gmanpaint]

Terminals are clean on a newish MAGM battery. Idle seems fine. Would the SCT3 I have for this, be able to see anything if I did a datalog with it? I don't even know how to do that yet, as I still haven't hooked it up to the rig or laptop yet. Was told not to, if it has a Cel, and it does. But if it can, that would be awesome to send data to someone who can decipher it for me.

I was also made aware of the Alt causing a signal issue, and could be the problem. this Alt is from the donor engine, and if stock, it has 112k on it, so who knows. I do get a 14.4v reading from it at the battery at idle, so it seems to be working, but, yeah..... who knows , it might be causing a frequency interference. I am still learning the difference between the 3g & 4g alt from the 4.0 & 5.0, and not versed enough yet to know better...... yet.

When I first got this rig, the OD light was on, and the switch was broken, and didn't have OD for about 3 months. Turdle & I went and got a complete steering column for $20, and used it's OD switch. Pushed the switch, light went off, and OD engaged. It worked fine, up until I didn't need it anymore, when I converted to Manual. The shifter handle in it now for the auto trans, is out of the 98 donor, but this time, the switch isn't working, but....the OD light is off, and the OD is always on. complete opposite of my previous OD issue. Since it works, there is a circuit made, telling the PCM to engage the TC. Now the circuit won't allow it to be interrupted, and disengage the TC, and I have no idea if this issue is the OD switch, or somewhere after the OD switch in the harness. Again... who knows?

Since this 98 swap harness was integrated with the stock 95 harness, I have absolutely no idea what circuit is what anymore, and even AllData won't help here, as a bunch has been spliced or replaced, and I have no wiring diagram for the harness to go off of. That means tracing circuit, and doing continuity tests, which frankly, is beyond my capability.

 

[CDW6212R]

The alternators are kind of easy. The OHV uses a different 3G model, while the SOHC and 5.0 use the same 4G model. The 4G has the power terminal up top, while the 3G has it on the back out of sight. Also one bolt hole of the three mounting bolts can't be used if it's the wrong alternator.

Take your time with the wiring, it needs a swap schematic showing the merge points. I'm going to be swapping a 2002 Mustang harness into my 92 Lincoln, and I'll make a schematic and charts showing how the old and new wires go together. That's needed for any future servicing, to make it workable.

 

[Dono]

I think you need to start a new thread on the Transmission issues.
It sure is sounding like the wiring is not quite correct.
The incorrect shifting and the OD issue are sounding like wiring based on this thread:
The definative '96 - '01 PATS, Fuel Pressure, Injector, and Wiring Harness Thread

Please start thread with:
1. The year of the pcm
2. the year of transmission
3. the year of the original wiring harness
4. If the cam position sensor is 2, or 3 wire
5. If the VSS signal comes from the rear diff sensor, or the transfer case.

From all the things you have done in the past, I'm pretty sure you can get thru this.
I know you paid someone to do this since you didn't want to deal with it, but as with most things we are better off doing them ourselves.

 

[gmanpaint]

Sounds like a good idea Dono. Hopefully some trans gurus will chime in and offer some advice.

Will get to that tonight after work.

Edit: Ok, so I was working outside in the heat until around 6pm, and got to feeling sick, so I called it a day. I will get to the CMP to check the wire count another day, then make that thread for the shifting issues.

 

[gmanpaint]

OK Dono, I started the thread in the trans section.

OD stuck on, and bad shifts after engine/trans swap

 

[gmanpaint]

Just enlisted Torrie from Unleashed Tuning to help figure out the electrical issues.

Says he will be able to see exactly how the pcm is set now, compare it from a stock setting, and figure out if it is just a matter of a flash, physical issues, or both.

Once the overdrive and 1309 problems are sorted, he will make me 2 tunes for it.

He wants to know what octane to set it for. With the 4.0, I always used high grade 93 octane. With this engine, and no wheel time, I'm not sure what's best for it. 87 is our low grade here, but we have mandated 10% ethanol and I know that matters.

What do you guys run in your 5.0?

 

[CDW6212R]

The 9:1 compression won't gain anything by using mid grade or premium. Regular is best, a good tune can get a little more out of it.

I am curious about what the tuner thinks of what difference pure gas can make versus the normal crap alcohol gas. Would you ask him? I have it in some places here, real gas, but it's not readily available to be able to run a different tune for it(and have to always use real gas). It runs at least 25 cents more per gallon, some places 45+ more. I have a station close to me that sometimes has it within 20 cents a gallon, and I get it then the most.

Before you get the PCM programmed, use injector cleaners, and try to run some seafoam through it, to help clean things out. That and new plugs etc, should get you the most possible from it. Only one tune is needed normally, but you could use one that's backed off timing, for higher elevations or bad gas.