The Black Hole

[gmanpaint]

Well, if the person I asked to do the cam swap would ever get back to me, I will ask about replacing the seals when he does the springs/rods.

Not sure when the cam swap will happen, but am hopeful for it to be done, over the cold winter months, when the rig is not in use.

First, the dang brake issue will be looked over again. This issue has been a 3" thorn in my side for over a decade. I am ordering a complete stainless hard line kit for it now, and Kurt & I, will be installing it in a couple of weeks. This is the only item in the hydro system that hasn't been replaced. Still on the hunt for the 95-96 vac ball for the vac portion of the system. I'm not sure this will fix anything, but since it is the only thing not replaced yet, I can't rule it out. It's always the last thing done, right?

I fixed the rear bumper drop the other day. Loosened up all the mounting bolts, re-positioned the bumper level, then Drilled 2 new 1/2" holes in the underside of the frame mounts, and bolted it to the frame, using spacers between the bumper & frame to make it solid. It now has 14 bolts holding it. 3 per side in the rear frame rails, and 4 per side in the side tube to frame brace. Sheesh! The bumper was made using a 1st gen. Apparently, the widths are the same as a 2nd gen, but the heights of them are not. There is gaps between the underside of both mounts to frame, and a larger gap on the Dr side. That gap allowed the bumper to move (rearward angle drop by 3/8") with only the side bolts only holding it on. Not anymore!

Appreciate all the feedback guys! Thanks!

 

[Rick]

FYI on the stainless hardline. It's way more finicky than the regular stuff since the material is much harder. I used stainless on the red Dart, regular on the white Dart. Much less issue with getting connections to seal with the regular stuff since it's softer and conforms better.

 

[gmanpaint]

Kurt & I discussed that very thing this morning. Being that my area uses road salt, and is extremely humid, I just figured the SS is the way to go. SS is like $50 more than regular steel. I am open to whatever tho. The front pre-bent lines looks to be the hard ones to get fitted. The frame intermediate line is straight, and the rear axle is simple. 50/50 mix here for application difficulty. lol

 

[KurtECV]

I struggled with doing my valve seals, as finding the right tool to compress the spring to get the keepers out was not easy for me. Then, It was back braking work for me. Kurt, I'm thinking your still a young guy so hopefully it doesn't hurt.

I'm with you though Kurt, just do the valve seals on the vehicle. It's the lesser of the evil's.
I found a pic in my 347 build thread with a pic of the only thing I could find (Tim could find, lol) that worked.

Yeah my back is doing ok, after being a tech for only about 10 years i am mastered the (Yoga) plank position from my belly button from all the LS valve springs that fail lol. GM literally use the same valve springs from like 2000-2020 and we are starting to see broken springs from trucks anywhere from 13 miles to 300k lol.

job security!

 

[KurtECV]

I did it in the truck on my old 96 with one of these

View attachment 324185

I would not suggest it, that was the first time I ever did valve springs and man oh man what a chore that was. My hands hurt so bad by the time I was done... that was about 15+ years ago now!!! the twist style tool will work, but it was a real PITA to twist all 16 of the dang springs closed
I like the tool posted above, leverage is your friend.

I have that very tool in my toolbox lol. seems to work better than what GM wants us to use lmao

 

[CDW6212R]

Hunt Nicopp brake lines, that's the easiest kind to install. It's very pliable and legal in most of the world, here too. It's easy to bend and fit to where you need it, and more corrosion resistant than OEM lines. Here's one choice from Amazon, one $26 kit;
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BN2W29H/?tag=serious-20

 

[gmanpaint]

Don't own or plan on buying a tube straightener, so coils are out. The prebent lines will need some massaging, but compared to making fully custom bent lines, and owning all the proper tube tools, for doing it right, that is minimal.

 

[KurtECV]

Don't own or plan on buying a tube straightener, so coils are out. The prebent lines will need some massaging, but compared to making fully custom bent lines, and owning all the proper tube tools, for doing it right, that is minimal.

I have everything besides the tube straightener lol. It's always faster to buy pre-bent lines

 

[gmanpaint]

Faster, easier, and cheaper if you don't own the plethora of tubing tools, it takes to do the job right. Some of them are a couple hundred each.

We only have to cut and flare 2 ends with the prebent kit. Just dont let me forget the nut, before making a perfect flare! Lol

 

[410Fortune]

Um I just have a double flare tool and a simple hand brake line bender.... I am able to run new lines on just about any Ford here with these, even perfected the metric bubble flare
Tools were like $50 max?

You can use vacuum ball from any year, but if you really want a 96-97 style I have two 96 gt40 trucks outside for parts!! I could send you the vacuum ball

Im hoping to see this sinking pedal issue go away! It must be air getting in somwhere!

 

[gmanpaint]

I have those same basic tools 410. For simple, regular hard line repairs, they work just fine.

Those simple tools used for a complete line install, simple stock or finesse custom, will be a pita. There are better easier ways, and it comes with an initial expense. If you did more than 1 or 2 jobs, these tools would be worth it to me. If only a one time use, than not so much.

For stainless you really need stronger tools, and a single flare tool, same as all AN lines/fittings with 37* single F.

Check out this video. This custom line installer shows the line tools I'm referring too, and the reasons why.




The 95-96 4wd 4.0L vac ball's, have an extra port for the CAD axle. If you have a good one, I would gladly use it to replace mine. Thanks! How are the vac hard lines from the relays to cad housing? Good?

 

[410Fortune]

Ahhhhhhhh these are v8 trucks... no CAD
I can look for one though!! I forgot about the 3rd port....dang

Doesn't it hurt really bad to tattoo the top of your hands? Ouch!

 

[CDW6212R]

Don't own or plan on buying a tube straightener, so coils are out. The prebent lines will need some massaging, but compared to making fully custom bent lines, and owning all the proper tube tools, for doing it right, that is minimal.

You should try the Nicopp lines, you don't need any special tools besides a great flaring tool. Hunt a video showing that line, you can bend it very, very easily. A child can bend the stuff, it is very flexible. Straightening it out would be as simple as setting it onto a flat surface and rolling it out with no effort.

I've only worked with it once, a friend had a leak at the ABS module connection fitting. We twisted the end off trying to remove it. I got some Nicopp locally, about three feet, and made the line to the LF in about ten minutes. It took 2-3 minutes for the flared ends, and just a few to bend it to match the old line.

I would use that Nicopp line to make any brake lines after working with it and loving it. I regret the several hours I spent putting two long main lines into my 95 Crown Vic. It took about three hours to get the lines from two different mid 90's Crown Vic's(3-channel brakes have one rear line(I used a 4-channel 97 CV ABS module)). I tried to remove a line without hurting it, but could not. So I had to cut the lines, over half of one line from each car, to have overlapping sections.

The yard then was the type to help put a car in the air on their yard racks. I also had bought the ABS module, a master cylinder, and the ABS wiring from the front of one 97 police car. So it ran about $200 for everything, plus my labor and two used rear ABS axles I already had.

I could have made the two long lines I needed, by copying my original line, in maybe 30 minutes being careful with the Nicopp stuff. I didn't know about it then, which was about 2003.

 

[gmanpaint]

Going to be a couple of weeks before we can get to the brake lines. All good there, just a followup to the last thing mentioned here.

Ok, so the southern winds was a blowing today, and brought temps up to the lower 70's. Couldn't let that go to waste! I attacked the Chinesium aftermarket headlight alignment. (Insert how many ------- it takes to change a light, here)

An hour went by, and no matter how much I tried to get them right, I just couldn't. A closer inspection to the adjusters on the housings, revealed the issue. The lower outer with the gearbox, and vertical rod on these, are plain garbage. The plastic housings had separated on the gearbox, and the rods just spin, not turning the adjuster stud. This single adjuster throws the entire housing alignment out of whack. I did adjust the other two, trying to compensate, but it just threw off the geometry of these thing a ma Bob's. They have a phillip's head on them, but you can't really get to them, and they are soft metal that strip. Sooo..... That's when the "" came on.

Unpacked the stock housings I saved, and compared the adjusters to the aftermarkets. Well, whadda ya know.... They match in design.

So I swapped the vertical adjusters out on them, and Bam! We can get this party started. Was able to correctly align the lights!

Swapping them out had another benefit. The length of the aftermarket vertical rods are shorter than the stocker's. Not by a lot, but just enough to make them a real PITA to use. The tops of them do not protrude the top of the core support, and you have to go fishing for them, to get a 4mm socket on them. The stock rods are just much more gooder, in every way. Real steel ( compared to what feels like soft aluminum), longer for adjustment, and the gear box is far superior than the thin flexible plastic on these Chinesium aftermarkets.

Stock to the left.

Stock to the right

Since the uppers were out for this job, I applied a bead of clear silicone all around where the lens meets the housings. Then some on the lowers.

The silicone will dry clear in a day or so. I left the uppers out for the night. Hopefully get them back in, before the monsoon hits us tomorrow night, & all weekend!

Edit: Got the uppers back in. Everything seems to be working. Water leak test this weekend!

 

[gmanpaint]

Was searching for a stronger aftermarket power steering pump, and stumbled on a steering part I had no idea about.

I checked multiple parts suppliers, and all say this engine/system has it. I found nothing of real value here on the forum about it, in the 2nd gen boards tho. I don't even know where it is, or how it would work in this mechanical hydro system. It has left an itch, I can't reach to scratch.

5.0L Power steering pressure switch. It's said to regulate the high pressures built up at higher rpm's. If it fails, it supposedly blocks fluid pressure to the rack.

Do parts suppliers use some type of generic parts list, that they all use, regardless if the rig has it or not? I have found other irregularities listed in the past, especially on the 95, so I can see this as another mistake.

Thoughts?

 

[Dono]

Crickets...
I (like everyone else I'm guessing) have no clue, but am interested.

 

[gmanpaint]

I'm pretty sure it's one of those mistaken parts listed everywhere.

Shame too, because if it was an actual part, it would be one of those easy part swaps to fix an issue. Lol

 

[CDW6212R]

I don't recall seeing that sensor, it looks a lot like the oil pressure sensor.

 

[410Fortune]

Nope never seen one on a truck before, there is no pressure switch on our power steering systems, and if it had this switch what would it do? activate a clutch to stop the ps pump from spinning? close a pressure valve? Those items also do not exist on these trucks

 

[KurtECV]

Was searching for a stronger aftermarket power steering pump, and stumbled on a steering part I had no idea about.

I checked multiple parts suppliers, and all say this engine/system has it. I found nothing of real value here on the forum about it, in the 2nd gen boards tho. I don't even know where it is, or how it would work in this mechanical hydro system. It has left an itch, I can't reach to scratch.

5.0L Power steering pressure switch. It's said to regulate the high pressures built up at higher rpm's. If it fails, it supposedly blocks fluid pressure to the rack.

Do parts suppliers use some type of generic parts list, that they all use, regardless if the rig has it or not? I have found other irregularities listed in the past, especially on the 95, so I can see this as another mistake.

Thoughts?

That doesnt look like a regulator at all. Id assume it would there would be an inlet/outlet and some kind of valve to restrict fluid flow.

That looks more like a fluid pressure sensor, now if that connector went to some other component that restricted flow, that is a possibility.