Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread

As some of you know, I am working on building a parts list for a shortened Dana 44, long radius arm with coil overs SAS. 5:13 gears to match my rear axle and an ARB, maybe an electric locker. I have a pretty good list so far. At the same time, I am going to swap out the rear drum brakes for discs off of a 99 Explorer.

Please note: The plan is to keep this project as simple as possible with mostly off the shelf parts. I am not a fabricator, just a decent welder with a what I would consider the minimum required tools (chop saw, cut off wheels, air tools, welder, etc.), who likes doing his own work. Your opinions are welcome, but what I really need is technical advice. I have been thinking about this for several years and now have the time and cash to make it happen. Please keep on topic with your advice and don't go off on a side track about how you would do it as a four-link, or caged arms, or leave the axle full-width because that is not what I want. I want a simple-ish set up that works.

 

[BKennedy]

Over the past few days, I have stared at the cargo area of the Explorer more than anything else. My problem is, the cooler I use for remote camping is the exact width and length as one of the larger side containers. I spent most of the time I had on Wednesday trying to figure out if I could make the top/floor have a removable hatch so the cooler could fit in the passenger side container space that did not compromise strength. Finally decided to stick with the original plan after realizing it would require a complete redo, and I would not be gaining anything but having the cooler sit lower and would be losing that side of the container space.

I cut off a tie down mount that was welded to the down tube of the cage as it would interfere with the new cooler location. Then, I made three more and welded them into the down tubes. One to tie-down the cooler, the other two just because I don't know when I will have the cargo area interior removed again, and I already had the welder out. I painted the floor tabs and down tubes roll cage brown (that's what I wrote on the rattle can, anyways).

Then I got to work on carpeting the top/floor of the box. I painted the underside gloss white with leftover ceiling paint from my bathroom project, since the can was sitting on the floor of the garage within easy reach. Wanted to seal the wood not being covered. To wrap the curves, I used a heat gun very sparingly and that cheap carpet made from recycled water bottles stretched nicely. I stapled the cut edges of the carpet, but I don't think it was necessary. I was just making sure the glue did not dry out and come off in a few years. I decided to finish it up tomorrow after the sun started shining directly into the garage this afternoon. Its about 100* and humid today.

Work area

Covered top/floor

Underside

 

[BKennedy]

I got it mostly finished and installed today. The heat eventually drove me into the AC'd house. Its so hot today the spray adhesive dried up within a few minutes. Top/floor fought me the entire way. I knew it was going to be tight, but I could not get the screws to line up after installing the carpet. Ended up removing carpet from one side and trimming off 1/8" of the wood. After that, it lined right up. I also decided to not add a bunch of cargo hooks besides the OEM hooks, which I need because I still use the cargo net (EMT bag, HF tool bag with misc. stuff, etc). I have 3 at the rear and 3 at the front welded to the floor that I can still access, which would be much stronger than anything bolted through the wood top/floor. The containers fit snugly with no wiggle, and require a little bit of force to remove. That should get easier over time as the carpet compresses.

Carpet covered box (OK, that did not sound right)

I carpeted the area where I store my fluid bottles

Box installed (I had to bend all the tabs out slightly to clear the carpet but they pulled back straight when I tightened the screws)

Top/floor installed. It looks so clean with the flush screws, but I think they will eventually push through the wood, so I am going to replace them with cap screws and flat washers. It takes a little work to get the jack/lug wrench access panel back in place, but its full of stuff (wheel bearings, seals, steering heims, bottle jack and accs, starter relay, serpentine belt, U-joints, extra air hose, spark plugs, 75' of extra winch rope with eyelets at both ends, etc.) that I rarely need. After I pick up the new screws, I will lock tite them all in, including the screws holding the box in place.

The whole thing is very sturdy, I was sitting on top of the top/floor while tightening the screws and it didn't flex. I doubt I will ever have much more weight than my fat ass in there, even while on a off-road excursion. I think the top/floor will eventually start to sag at the hatch side where it has to have a wide opening for the containers. I am going to make 2 props of carpet covered 2x4 pieces I can push under the lip. I am also going to cut out a few pieces of left over plywood to make a few corner ridges to help keep my cooler in place that will be removable.

This has been a lot more work than I originally thought, but its coming out nice.

 

[Stic-o]

Wow, making it almost to nice to go get dirty.

I just noticed the tie down tabs you welded to the cage. That's a smart idea.

 

[BKennedy]

I figure the cage is the strongest thing back there, and its in the right spot. I also decided today that I am going to sparingly use some wood glue when I reattach the top/floor to the box. I want it to stay in place, and have not thought of a reason to take it apart. I added more tack welds to all the bolts and washers that go through the floor for the aux battery box and air compressor mounting plate when I had the carpet out. There is nothing else under there to get too.

 

[BKennedy]

I finished it up today. All I have left is to cut and cover two pieces of wood to wedge in the center of the wide gaps to make sure the top/floor doesn't sag over time. I don't think the top/floor is going anywhere; I glued it to the box, and it has 18 1/4x20 screws (12 into epoxied threaded inserts, 2 into T-nuts and 4 into flat bar I tapped), all with thread locker, and I added 10 3" long wood screws for good measure.

I added 8 cargo mounts, 4 OEM for the cargo net, and 4 D-ring type. The OEM's are in nearly the same position as original. The others are at the far sides of the top/floor.

I made 2 blocks to help keep the cooler in place I take on long range type off-road trips. They are held in place by 3 wood screws each so if I change the cooler, or don't like them there I can remove them without it being noticeable. The cooler doesn't move after its strapped down with a single strap. The strap is attached on the top at the cage cargo loop, and at the bottom to a D-ring type mount welded to the floor.

All the stuff I leave in the back, back in the back.

 

[johnny499]

Very nice. Looks like you thought it out and made it happen. That should hold together for years...

 

[BKennedy]

Very nice. Looks like you thought it out and made it happen. That should hold together for years...

Thanks. The Explorer has turned into a garage queen lately, so it should last.

 

[BKennedy]

Got the support blocks finished today. They are just a 7" long piece of 2x4 wrapped with the same carpet. I can store them behind the larger containers until a substantial amount of weight is on top of the floor.

 

[FR-425]

You could use a piece of aluminum angle like I did to stiffen up the edge. Keeps the carpet from wearing too.

 

[BKennedy]

You could use a piece of aluminum angle like I did to stiffen up the edge. Keeps the carpet from wearing too.

I guess I should have thought of that before I used a router on the edges to make them nice and round.

Edit: Now this got me thinking about protecting the edge, but I can't fine any round edging that will fit on a .5666" thick piece of plywood. I cut a piece of old hose to use where I know the hold down strap for the cooler is going to contact the edge. Other than that, there should be very little contact with the edge of the top/floor.

 

[BKennedy]

Expedition Explorer, lighting:

I purchased a 5 meter strip of LED's and went to town. I added about 11' across the bottom and sides of the hatch, so when its open it will be a nice lighted area for remote camping. It will really help with cooking on a camp stove on my little tables at night. I won't have to use the HF under hood LED light anymore, though it did work well for camping. I also added a few feet for each side on the top of the side panels in the cargo area, because I have found the cargo dome light to be woefully inadequate. Both the hatch and cargo lights are on separate switches and are fed from the auxiliary battery. I was going to run dedicated wiring for the lights from the auxiliary fuse panel before I decided since they draw so little amps, I hooked them into the feed for my rear 12 volt charge plug.

I did not want to try to run a wire through the stock harness into the hatch, so I used the old windshield washer motor + and - wires. The rear windshield washer motor has been removed after the wife broke it many, many years ago. She used to drive the Explorer and decided to back up with the hatch open in the garage. Ripped the motor off the mounts and bent the door pretty good too.

Hatch plastic

Cargo area lights

Switch locations

After I get it wired up and cleaned up, I will post more pictures. Most of the wiring will end up under the plastic trim. The LED strip has fairly strong tape, and I used epoxy at the ends and a dab about every 6" to help keep it in place.

 

[tdavis]

Did you ever finish your ham radio project, aka "get your license?"

 

[BKennedy]

Did you ever finish your ham radio project, aka "get your license?"

No, but I have been thinking about doing that. I figure having the radio is the most important part, I can still yell for help without a license. I do need to study and take the test though.

 

[BKennedy]

I finally got the lights wired up and reinstalled the interior panels. I was concerned they would not put out enough light to make this worth while, but they are very bright. Lights up the fold-down tables and cargo area very well. Now, if it would only cool down a little so I can go camping for a real test....

Cargo lights

Camp/hatch lights

All lights

 

[Stic-o]

That came out great. Do you know how much power there drawing total?

 

[gmanpaint]

That will help shine the way to the items in the back. Bright idea.

 

[BKennedy]

That came out great. Do you know how much power there drawing total?

Not much

Cargo lights

Hatch lights

All lights

That will help shine the way to the items in the back. Bright idea.

Geeze

 

[gmanpaint]

I know, corny, and obvious. That's me, what can I say. lol

 

[Stic-o]

You know I never know what to set the multi meter to for different things, but with HF giving them away, I can just have one for each application

 

[BKennedy]

You know I never know what to set the multi meter to for different things, but with HF giving them away, I can just have one for each application

You know they come with instructions?

I didn't even think to check the amps those lights pulled until you mentioned it. Glad I checked because now I know all of them on at once is equal to one 12 volt incandescent bulb. I had them all on today for about an hour and the volt gauge for the auxiliary battery didn't drop at all. I have at least five of those HF multimeters in the packages and am picking up another Wednesday since I got another coupon. One in each car, a few in the RV, a few at home....they quit working, trash.