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Burns SAS thread

Well as a few of you know my X was messeed up a bit due to a accident. so i have been looking for a new plan.
i have my axles (d44/ford9") all i need is to choose what i am gonna do.
i was thinking about thiS:
In the front i plan to use whild horse 5.5 inch coils,
1005_cut.jpg

for radius arms i plan to use this.
1425LO~1.jpg

they are 12 inches longer that the stock radius arms.i have the whole frame from a 78 f-150 that i plan to get the coil buckets and steering off of.
i want to use a 37 inch tire and use 4.88 gears
i dont see a problem with any of this so i need some info to see if i have missed anything
 


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FROADER

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Trying to climb a ledge that was about 3ft vert then started to level out. RockRanger couldn't make it so Rick tried and on his second attempt he gave it a bump and when it landed...bang, rattle rattle rattle... :D
 


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Burns

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wow i never thought you could do something like that. do you know why the tubes would twis like that. y wouldnt it just twist the rear springs before it spun the tubes.
 












IZwack

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but you have to say that still is quite a bit of pressure we are putting on these parts.

IMO, these welds have always been the weak point of the 8.8. There's been a few articles (i think one here on ExplorerForum and plenty on PBB) about the magical spinning 8.8.
 








sn0border88

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a back brace on a 9" isnt for protection, its to add strength to the rear.
 




DB_1

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wow i never thought you could do something like that. do you know why the tubes would twis like that. y wouldnt it just twist the rear springs before it spun the tubes.

If the springs were soft enough that would happen but most people run an overload and/or add-a-leafs which makes the leaf pack harder to bend so something else has to give and that usually results with a spun diff.

Those trussed 9" housings are most popular with the desert racing crowd since they are jumping their trucks over and over and would most likely end up with a bent housing. For slow and go wheeling, some extra plate steel on the underside going up and in front of the ring gear should be plenty strong IMO.
 




410Fortune

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hehehehe wow that 8.8 put up with ALOT before it finally went hua Rick? years of service!! A truss would help but for our type of wheeling welding the center section would probably be sufficient the 8.8 is a strong mamma jamma
 




410Fortune

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it is my understanding that the 8.8 tubes and center section are actually stronger then a factory 9" rear, I am not sure if this includes spinning the tubes or not (strength wise) but the 9" housing is not as strong when it comes to bending/ cracking, etc? Maybe I am wrong but I am pretty sure i've read discussions about this. Basically upgrading to the 9" may have some advantages but some dis advantages as well
 








slravene

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none of the 3rd member axles are as stong as their open back counterparts (housing bends wise) since they are all one piece. Take a gander at an 8.8 (or any open-back housing)...you will notice there is quite a bit of beed around the pumpkin and where the tubes enter the diff. Now take a look at a 3rd member axle....not as much beef. Its all just a single cast that forms the shape. Thats why you see alot of trussed Toy 8's and Trussed 9's; because they bend rather easily.
 




redranger4.0

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none of the 3rd member axles are as stong as their open back counterparts (housing bends wise) since they are all one piece. Take a gander at an 8.8 (or any open-back housing)...you will notice there is quite a bit of beed around the pumpkin and where the tubes enter the diff. Now take a look at a 3rd member axle....not as much beef. Its all just a single cast that forms the shape. Thats why you see alot of trussed Toy 8's and Trussed 9's; because they bend rather easily.

Thats the I reason invested in this

114_1482.jpg
 




IZwack

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none of the 3rd member axles are as stong as their open back counterparts (housing bends wise) since they are all one piece. Take a gander at an 8.8 (or any open-back housing)...you will notice there is quite a bit of beed around the pumpkin and where the tubes enter the diff. Now take a look at a 3rd member axle....not as much beef. Its all just a single cast that forms the shape. Thats why you see alot of trussed Toy 8's and Trussed 9's; because they bend rather easily.
This is true.

The "one piece" 3rd member design does however have one advantage -- its not cast .. allowing modifications/welding to the center section a piece of cake .. so i guess it pretty much begs to be trussed :D

I guess redranger4.0 has the best of both worlds -- thick tubes and non-cast center :D
 




redranger4.0

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turned out the stock housing i had was bent so it was either hunt down another 76-77 EB 9" housing, or just have one made.
 








ld50

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Ever figure out your backspacing?
The rims that were on my axles have 3 & 11/16 backspacing, not sure about offset..
They are from somewhere between 73 and 79 f150 so may be similiar

-PS deep pockets huh?

:D
 




Burns

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Ever figure out your backspacing?
The rims that were on my axles have 3 & 11/16 backspacing, not sure about offset..
They are from somewhere between 73 and 79 f150 so may be similiar

-PS deep pockets huh?

:D

if you ask me that i must have just not see it. sorry about that. my rims are off a 1978 f150. i will try to check on the backspacing some time tomm for you.
 






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