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Burns SAS thread


Well as a few of you know my X was messeed up a bit due to a accident. so i have been looking for a new plan.
i have my axles (d44/ford9") all i need is to choose what i am gonna do.
i was thinking about thiS:
In the front i plan to use whild horse 5.5 inch coils,

for radius arms i plan to use this.

they are 12 inches longer that the stock radius arms.i have the whole frame from a 78 f-150 that i plan to get the coil buckets and steering off of.
i want to use a 37 inch tire and use 4.88 gears
i dont see a problem with any of this so i need some info to see if i have missed anything
 


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james t

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Ford flattops suck.

Im like the EB guys and would like to stay all Ford parts. however that may not happen. i need to find out on this first.
Well then, let me give you the same lecture i give them. :D Its not really a Ford part, or a Chevy part, or a Jeep part... its a Dana part. I find it so odd that some people wont run certain Dana/Spicer parts over others because they came in some other brand of vehicle, yet their own brand of vehicle did not make the Dana/Spicer axle to begin with. We're not talking about bolting Chevy parts onto a Ford axle... we're talking about bolting Dana parts onto a Dana axle.

But whatever floats your boat i guess. :)
 


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sn0border88

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I never said he should I siad he could. Thats why im going with chevy stuff
 












Burns

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I remember that, but 2" is a LOT! Stic-o has a big heave front bumper too. Hmmm... I wonder what the deal is. So you have the 5.5" not the 3.5"?

Froader or anyone that is running the 5.5 inch coils from whild horse count and see how many loops the coil contains. i have been thinking of my flex and this keeps coming to mind. i ordered the 5.5 but i could have the 3.5.
 




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Froader or anyone that is running the 5.5 inch coils from whild horse count and see how many loops the coil contains. i have been thinking of my flex and this keeps coming to mind. i ordered the 5.5 but i could have the 3.5.

14.5
 












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Makes the whole unit stronger. It will help stop from spinning the pumpkin like Rick did this weekend...but so will simple welds around the area where the tubes go into the center section.
 












IZwack

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it makes the axle more rigid -- just do it, it looks more bad-ass :D

FROADER, was that the rear axle Rick spun or the D44?
Cauz if its the D44, im going to set my D44 on fire tonight and call it quits.
 




Burns

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it makes the axle more rigid -- just do it, it looks more bad-ass :D

FROADER, was that the rear axle Rick spun or the D44?
Cauz if its the D44, im going to set my D44 on fire tonight and call it quits.

it does look bad. i have seen it on a few trucks and just never put anythoght into it till i ran across it on perrys fab and fiber site.
 




redranger4.0

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Makes the whole unit stronger. It will help stop from spinning the pumpkin like Rick did this weekend...but so will simple welds around the area where the tubes go into the center section.

he spun a 8.8 tube correct? cause you cant truss a 8.8 like that with out some major fabbing for the cover, with the 9 i dont think its possible to spin tubes, the truss is just to add strength to the "sheetmetal" 9" housing.
 








IZwack

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it does look bad. i have seen it on a few trucks and just never put anythoght into it till i ran across it on perrys fab and fiber site.
yeah its done very often.. more so on the "third member" design axles.. like your 9" and also the Yota axles and Rover axles.
 




Burns

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i didnt think you could spin the 9" cause its not like the 8.8 speaking on how the tubes connect to the center section.
i do have a dent on my 9". it was there when i got it and it was not used like we use them. farm truck. lol. this is the only thing i worry anout with my rearend.
 








redranger4.0

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time to weld the tubes on
 


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Burns

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holy cow rick never does a bad job. lol that is just intersting i would have never thought you could do that.

do you know what he was doing when he did this.
 




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