- January 31, 2007
- Reaction score
- City, State
- St.Louis, MO
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2002 Explorer Sport Trac
Thanks for the info Chad. A few more questions, if you don't mind I read above where you recommended the dana 44 axles out of a 80-81 or 85-92 wagoneer. I assume this is because of their length and because the pumpkin is on the driver's side? Are there other reasons that make this a prime donor? Are there other years and models that I should keep my eyes open for, or is the wagoneer really my best/only option. I want to keep the length as close to original as possible. (Not going for the full size axle look.)
Also, I read where you had asked about the ABS, but I don;t recall you getting an answer. What did you do about your ABS?
I hope this question doesn't show my complete ignorance, but here goes. So you now have manual hubs? You have to get out of the truck and lock the hubs at the wheels (old school style)? But still use the stock electronic "dial" on the dash to engage the transfer case? And then you have installed two switches to engage the front and rear ARB lockers? ....Wait, I just went back and looked at your pics, and you have center caps on your front wheels. So the hubs stay engaged all the time, rotating the axles, front-rear, and front drive shaft all the time? OK, now I'm confused. I guess I did manage to show my ignorance
The wagoneer axle is close to the same width, the best option is an axle from an early bronco, they are a little narrower, but harder to find from my experience and more $$$$. Wagoneer axles are pretty easy to find and cheap. Plus if you do a leaf setup the axle is already setup for leafs. Follow this link for Dana 44 info. http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Dana44.htm
I do not have ABS any longer in my truck, and to be honest I dont really notice a difference. At some point I would like to remove the ABS module from the engine bay, for more space but I developed a "it if works, leave it alone attitude" since I did the SAS. This attitude holds true that I may not even mess removing the leafs and doing a linked setup. Like I said the leafs work so why bother.
As for the hubs I have Warn manual hubs, that are a stock item at Advance Autoparts, Autozone ,etc. So I have to get out and manually engage the hubs for 4 wheel drive. I did this so in the event I break a chromoly axle or CTM u joint I can disengage that wheel and limp out of a trail in 3 wheel drive, and drive it home. Plus it saves MPG when daily driven, since I am turning the axles and t-case.
For my center caps, they are a 2 piece design so I just took my dremel and opened the inside of the plastic center cap so it slides over the hub. It just looks better IMO. I still have the outer peice that has the wheel manufacturers name on it. But I still have the same switch in the cab to engage the transfer case. And I have switches for the ARB compressor and locker.