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21Robbie21 SAS

ok so last night i went and picked up a '84 wagoneer D44 Full Width or WT, Driver Drop, Non-Vac Disconnect, W/Locking Hubs, Complete, its got rust and mud, but it seems good to go. I'm going to run leaves for simplicity. I am 2wd right now and the SAS will be the first step toward 4wd. The axle is 63" wide so i think im going to run spacers in the back. I want to do this as cheap as possible. I want to run 36" Iroks or another 36/37 when im finished. Im hoping to finish in ~3 months, but im not sure how realistic that is. Bryan (BMXking) lives close to me, and if he ever finishes his :D he will have the PRIVELEDGE of helping me :thumbsup: i am open to any suggestions, ideas, tips, tricks, specs, references, or anything that might help me do this project professionally, cheaply, and quickly. I just spent 200 on this axle, ordered a yakima roof basket, and a new cobra CB and antenna, so im outta cash for now, and im going to PC for spring break on April 1st so i might not take any steps these next two-three weeks. But after that im anxious!

sorry the rugs arent a good background, but its in the unfinished part of my basement and thats whats on the floor and damn this thing is heavy!
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you think its dirty now? this is after i hosed and scrubbed of the initial Cm thick covering of mud
 



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robbie if you get 44044s then i want you waggys :D
 



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ok this weekend i came home and basicly put everything together but when it was put on its weight the shackle was kaput and the steering box was too far reward and touched the differnetial after the springs/shackles went flat, so i need to move the rear hangers further back and the steering box forward. I have already made my own steering extensiopn with the one for my body lift and part of the old steering shaft. Also the power steering lines have not been connected. after i make these adjustments hopefully it will be driving. ill get some pics up on wednsday probably
 






sweetness...ever get that brake line fixed ?? did you figure out your ps lines ??
 






ya i did all the brakes, havent done the powers steering but i know what has to be done
 






i take it you didnt get pics did ya ?? :D who welded for you ??
 






well this isnt finished, but its progress. My dads friend who works in a body shop did the welding. As i stated in my previous post, the rear hangers need to be moved back and the steering box forward and it should be drivable. Sorry the pics aren't great it was dark and wet.
its amazing how much surface rust shows up after only sitting outside for three days, even if it did rain for two.
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no quite the shackle angle i was going for
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steering box is too far back and interferes witht he differential
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Its getting there. I hope you are planning on adding some braces to that rear hanger. Two steps forward one step back.
 






Very nice. Definatly add some bracing as mentioned above. At first glance i was wondering, where the hell is his shackle, then i saw it, maxed out and flat lol. Cant wait to see some daytime shots...you will post some up in the morning right?
 






thanks, ya bracing is in the plan, no daylight shots now bc my car is in the atl and im in athens, the reason why i have only worked on it three times in the past two months, so while i was at home working most the day today i wont be there tommrow to take pics, but next opportunity(prob this weekend) i definately will
 






Any particular reason you went with the shackle in front instead of on the back hanger? Just wondering.

Looks like you are making good progress with a lot of little stuff to do. Are you going to box the ends of your spring hanger? Are you going to keep the body lift or remove it?

Looking forward to seeing some more/better pics.
 






Well orginally i did have it shackle rearward and the way my shackles and hangers are it is interchangeable, but after i came upon my two problems, no shackle angle and differential hitting pitman arm i thought if i flipped them around it would move the axle because the springs are offset, but it didnt. When i move the rear hangers i will flip them back. Yes im going to box the ends and yes im going to keep the body lift, i mean its already there why take it out, it doesnt appear that im going to have excessive lift for my tires otherwise id consider it.
 






dang man looks good, you shoulda called me to come help...should have my yota runnin in the next 2 weeks (waitin on my 5.29 gears to get installed) :D...BTW south got beat like 43-0 by north gwinnet tonight
 












97sportfl said:
how much did every thing cost u

with tax? $67.04

i mean around 3k but im not done yet, and there are so many routes you can go and it all depends on what materials you own i spent ATLEAST 500 on things like tools, paint, blades, bolts etc, and i probably have $200 worth of extra parts in my basement. If you plan it out well and budget yourself, you can do it cheaper. If i had owned a few more items or budgeted better i could have saved probably 500.
 












does it cost more if it only 2 wd

definately does..he still needs 4wd tranny, t-case, then drive shafts to work with it..regear the front and rear
 






definately does..he still needs 4wd tranny, t-case, then drive shafts to work with it..regear the front and rear

to answer youre question accurately, no it costs less to do a SAS for only two wheel drive, dont have to regear front, dont have to extend front driveshaft. But if you want to convert from 2 to 4 and do a sas like me then yes it costs a lot more

james i would advise against you driving your car ever. This weekend i drove my car without steering to get it out and what do you know it doesnt make it 100 feet before your welds on the rear perches break and the axles spins and the driveshaft comes out.:fire: you might want to work on that
 






that sucks. mine did that when i was turning it around to do the front of my sas. lol
 






dude, i only tacked them on like you told me to...did your mechanic use thomas' welder ?? i was iffy about the whole thing because the welder had only 85 amps and wasnt getting good enough penetration for a good strong tack..mine has 200+ i would have brought my welder but we couldnt use it as you didnt have a 220v plug in the basement..
 



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dude, i only tacked them on like you told me to...did your mechanic use thomas' welder ?? i was iffy about the whole thing because the welder had only 85 amps and wasnt getting good enough penetration for a good strong tack..mine has 200+ i would have brought my welder but we couldnt use it as you didnt have a 220v plug in the basement..

no he used his own welder and it worked on only 110v and did just fine. And it definately wasnt just tacks, you lined the hole thing, but whatever dont worry about it. I am just worried about you fully welding your own car.
 






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