Okay here are some pictures from my front end IFS rebuild
My truck needed alot of new front end parts, so I finally had the $$$ and the time to replace them. This was the first time I have worked on the Explorer IFS in depth. I have worked on many front ends, but I still got some help from this forum. There are some great write ups on this forum for replacing the ball joints, hubs, torsion bars, brakes, cv's, tie rods, etc. There is no need for me to add anything to this and I was very thankful when I had questions, a quick search answered them no problem.
First I marked the position of the upper control arms on the frame mounting brackets for reference when putting the new control arms in place:
Disconnect the sway bar:
I used a 8# sledge and removed the tie rod from the knuckle (if yours is stuck you may try using a pickle fork) If you plan to re-use your outer tie rod you should leave the castle nut on the stud when you hit it with a hammer:
remove the 2 caliper retaining bolts, the rotor then slides off the knuckle (rubber mallet can be useful here):
remove the upper control arm bolts:
With the Torque Monster headers you cannot get the pass side camber bolts and shims out, there is not enough clearance. So I bought new bolts with the 2.5 degree correction, because I also have a torsion twist.
I used a 4" grinder to cut the bolts so they would clear:
Before you remove the knuckle from the lower ball joint now is the time to crack loose the hub retaining bolts:
ask me how I know....
Then with the hub removed or the bolts loose at least, you can remove the knuckle off the lower ball joint. Again the 8# sledge will do the trick:
You need to remove the lower shock mount if you plan to pull the cv axle out
Easy trick for getting the upper ball joint out of the knuckle:
My stock hubs were in BAD shape...lots of rouge and when you spin them its apparent they are metal to metal.
New hubs include the ABS sensor and wiring:
I also replaced the inner and outer tie rods, I did not get any pictures of this. But in order to retain a pretty decent alignment I made sure to build my new inner and outer assembly by measuring the old parts that were removed.
After all this work, I cleaned everything and put it back together. I got in a hurry because it was getting dark/cold, so I didnt get pictures of this process...but again there are plenty of perfect threads for that on this forum.
I also replaced my torsion bars and adjusters with the ones from my parts truck, it had half the miles on it. The kevlar wear pads were history, I ditched them completely after attempting to locate some similar kevlar/aramid material to no avail.
I cleaned the adjusters and the frame bracket and just put a bit of wheel bearing grease in there. I plan to run some coilovers in the ner future so investing in new torsion bar adjusters was not worth it to me.
Notes:
- I picked up some 90 degree grease zerks (1/4" size) for the new moog lower ball joints, otherwise the cv axle is in the way of adding grease.
- If your front diff IFS grease seals are leaking (at the cv axle) now is the time to replace them
- Because of the headers I ended up installing the new 2.5 degree camber bolts and shims backwards, so the nut is on the shock tower side. This caused a bit of confusion for the alignment guy who is used to putting his ratchet on the outer side, I showed him how I used a 21mm wrench and ratchet in oder to loosen/tighten them. My regular alignment guy was not available so I bit the bullet and went to Big O for $60.. they did a decent job
- a pickle fork and a ball joint/ u joint service kit is required for this job IMO. Pressing the lower ball joint out and in with my $25 Harbor Freight press made it a breeze. The pickle fork will get most stuck upper ball joints or tie rods apart if needed (will likely ruin the boot)
I also performed a final torsion twist to even out my trucks stance. Then it was off for an alignment...
To the lip of both my fenders from the ground (center of the hub, 33" tires, 3" body lift, 1/2 tank gas, 1.5" torsion twist) is 38-1/4"
The truck runs great now! no more vibrations and fuel mileage has increased (due to alignment and new hubs/bearings)
For the torsion twist I learned a few unique things about the Ford parts and the EF.com recommended 100mm long bolts...IMO they are too long! I had to cut them down and make custom bolts. We performed the TT on two trucks in one day...so those pictures will go in James thread who's 97 XLT just got 1.5" lift from the TT and some warrior shackles....
Link coming
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