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My New, New 347

I'm abandoning my old thread (My new 347), as the motor has been an epic fail for many reasons.
Against any sane reason, I'm trying again.

Post #1 is a thread with all parts for my own records. I'll keep adding to this as I have the time and know what parts are being used.

New (Used) unmolested factory block from Vroomzoomboom. Thanks Tim!
Eagle Forged 4340 Steel Crankshafts 430234705400 w ESP Armor coat option
Bullet Pistons BF6010-030 - 2618 Forged Flat top w TFS valve reliefs made for power adder applications
Rods -I beam Forged (From Old Motor)
King Pro Series Bearings
Michigan 77 SH1321 Cam Bearings
MEL10688 HV Oil Pump - Block and pump machined to fit under the stock oil pan
FEL-1133SD MLS head Gaskets
PAC-1207X LS Springs (Yes Tim, there is something Cheby going in to my Ford motor)
Comp Ultra gold 1.6 rockers (old build)
HRC911968 Howards link bar lifters
Comp Cam 35-775-8 proposed, may change after head flow number change 35-775-8 - XFI™ Stroker Hydraulic Roller Camshafts, Computer controlled (E.F.I.) with O.E. hydraulic roller cams 1985-95
rollmaster timing set (Hopefully re-usable from old build)
TW170 heads (old build) that will be ported and the chambers softened for boost
push rods: 5/16" with a length of 6.7" (old build)
ARP Head Studs (old build)
Torque converter CircleD SKU:30-09-19 11" 2800 stall triple disk lockup FORD 11" HP Series 4R70 Torque Converter
Trick Flow Track Heat intake (old build)
Cometic C5652-060 intake manifold gasket
ARP Oil Pump Driveshaft Kit 1 54-7904 (old build)
ARP Flexplate Bolt Kit 100-2901 (old build)
PCV Valve EV127A
header gasket remflex 3003


28oz Damper DamperDudes.net (Americas Largest supplier of harmonic balancers)-re-balanced by machinist to 0
28oz flex Plate 1830201 - Small Block Ford 289-351W 1963-1982, 28 oz Ext-bal, 164 Teeth -re-balanced by machinist to 0

Injector Clinic 650H 62lb injectors
Return style fuel pump canister installed in fuel tank (1998 Explorer)
Another 6an braided line added as a fuel return line
Aeromotive Stealth Electric Fuel Pump 11542 340lph
Aeromotive 13130 fuel regulator
Trick Flow TFS-5158000R fuel rails





 



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That is awesome!
I want to see new 1/4 mile times when this engine is installed!
 



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I'm afraid, lol.

If everything is working and I'm not dealing with oddball issues I'm in. There's only fear and good judgment Holding me back.
 






There's only fear and good judgment Holding me back.

i'll take care of the good judgement part for you :D

cant wait to get this in your truck!!!!!
 






Here's a link to what was found in the oil filter upon inspection.
Highest end oil Filter available
You will notice right away that there is an absence of copper. I'm more than a little happy about that.

Here's more pics showing how clean the motor was when the pan and valve covers came off. Also, the cam and cylinder finish looks great.

Clean1.jpg


Clean3.jpg


Clean2.jpg

oil pan

Cam lobes.jpg


Finished Motor.jpg

Almost ready to come to its new home
 






Man even that valve cover gasket is top notch. Weren't the original 5.0 gaskets cork ?
That blue valve cover gasket looks like the newer design gaskets every engine is using these days, and they are good quality stuff!
 






i think don uses the felpro valve cover gaskets. those are great.
it also just looks like someone tossed oil around inside of it, and never ran it. clean as hell. and both don and myself can only truly say how hard they ran it on the dyno. they weren't genital, that for sure lol
 






That looks beautiful inside, the extra care is visible there. Well done to you and the builder.

Do you need or have room for rocker girdles? I have a new TFS set as part of a deal for some new TW 170 heads for my project.
 






I might have looked at it a month or two ago, but once I get the motor I just want to install it.

I'm going to set shift points before 6000 rpm (1st gear probably sooner since it takes time to actually shift once its commanded) and rev limiter at about 6400 anyway, so the motor isn't going to be a high revving deal. I don't think they are a big deal at those lower rpm's.

Thanks for the offer though Don, appreciated.
 






And, thanks to the wonders of time lapse photography:

I struggled getting the motor to seat. I called a friend. Tim said...Put the trans in neutral. BOOM, dropped right in. Thanks Tim!

engine install 1.jpg


engine install 2.jpg


engine install 3.jpg


I haven't tightened anything up yet, but the trans to engine and engine mount bolts are in!

Next step is to figure out where to mount the fuel pressure regulator.
 












I called a friend.

yea, some friend. that jerk didnt come to give you a hamd!

to be honest, i figured you would be dead to the world today with being sick the other day, then working, the the time change. oh well, at least harry was there......to drink all your beer lol
 






Yea, I am beat. Didn't get home from that bartending thing till about 2:30, which would be 3:30 after the time change.
Harry showed up just as the motor was seating, so it worked out ok. He actually tried to help, which was surprising.

I just needed to see some movement on the install this weekend.
 






Take your time.

Remember (1) Aww Crap wipes out (10) Atta Boys instantly.

It's a simple rule of math.....
 






Can't wait to see this running in the truck. don't hurry it though on my account. Get some rest, take your time. I really like what I am seeing this time around. Good show!
 






I'm plugging away slowly. I installed a new passenger header since the other one had been repaired. The egr was off by a good 1/4 inch from the old header. That took some time re-bending and shaping the egr tube. I'm super close now, so I'm running with it.

I also have a new drivers side header that is the one piece design. This is clearly the way to do it. Fit is very nice, and one less gasket to blow out.

Things will speed up once I have the fuel system completed and pressure tested. Tonight the fuel rails went on, and fuel feed attached to the rails. I had to fight getting the wiring to the transmission, as it probably would have been easiest to feed it while I was seating the motor. Out came the dipstick tube to get the trans wiring down the tunnel. Whatever, I'm in no rush.

It's been almost a year, so even finding some bolts can be difficult. Even bagged, things have moved around the garage. It also becomes a question on if the builder took enough pictures and specific studs end up in the wrong holes, etc. I'm working thru it.
 






That is mechanical artwork in its purest form..
 












i had to wait till i got home to hear that. now that i have, now i have to wait to hear in for real! that thing sounds better then it did on the dyno! bet i also felt good to finally twist the key and hear it come back to life
 






Looks and sounds good!
What are the next steps?
 



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Other than all the smoke of stuff burning off, it was an uneventful start up. No breaking of oil pump gears, no leaks, nothing.

Front diff, and hood need to go on. I need to drill/tap a hole for the water meth nozzle, and then I can start more tuning and look for the issues that will come up. It's not exactly track weather here, so I'm just going to wait for the snow to melt some more before insuring to drive on the street.

I have a strange issue when I plug the data cable in to my sct. If the sct unit is plugged in to only the odb port, and I pug in the data cable the sct device goes dead. I unplug the data cable and it comes to life. I tried plugging in a data cable that I had laying around (Nothing connected on the other end) and the device doesn't go dead when it's plugged in. Short? Anyway, Tim offered up his tuner for me to do a quick test with. Then I'll know if the issue is the sct, or the wiring. I can still do closed loop tuning till I get this sorted out.

The idle and low rpm tuning are surprisingly close. I thought it would be way off. I'm pretty sure once I am able to log the wideband hard throttle will require much more attention.
 






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