Pugly

[KurtECV]

Did they get it right?

 

[gmanpaint]

Appointment is next week. We shall see.

 

[gmanpaint]

So I stopped back over at the alignment shop today. I wanted to talk to the tech.

Not trusting the worn pass tire (inner) until the alignment, I put the new spare on. In doing so, I discovered that the other front tire is also cupping/feathering on the inner side as well. It's not as bad as the Pass side, but it's there. Just couldn't tell until I swapped the new matching spare.

Tech said it's not that bad, but it could affect the specs some. We decided to throw the rears on the front, as they are wearing evenly. The new tire, and the slightly worn front tire placed on the rear might be, or might not be an issue with the locker. If it is, I need to hunt down a new tire. Problem with that is, they stopped making the regular BFG A/T KO.

Always something with these rigs!

 

[CDW6212R]

That shouldn't affect the rear diff, if that one tire wear, is really minor(the diameter). You'd discover it if the difference was much, the locker would be much more sensitive.

 

[gmanpaint]

That is what I'm hoping for!

Will find out tomorrow.

 

[KurtECV]

I have had this argument with techs all over the place. Tire wear doesn't affect the alignment. you set camber/caster/toe based off hard parts (wheels, lug studs, rotor and hub run-out at the mounting surfaces etc)

HOWEVER, it will effect handling and on-road behavior making most people think (because of worn tires) that the alignment is off.
Now the fact that your tires are showing uneven wear, cupping/feathering and that sort, you have an alignment problem (which you already know)

Watch out when the tech does the alignment, i have seen techs manipulate the sensor heads to pull a measurement into spec and print those "fake" specs and tell the customer that they are good to go. It doesn't take much to move a sensor half of a degree into the green and dead on the money.

 

[gmanpaint]

With a modified rig, the camber and toe is the only ones I care about on the computer.

The castor is is right or wrong, regardless what the computer says. That's up to the tech to dial it in, while keeping camber and toe where it needs to be.

I would prefer to find an old school shop, that doesn't even use the computer. The paint line they spray around the tire, wears off eventually.

 

[KurtECV]

That's how I used to do my TTB.

For a daily like Pugly id also worry about caster, better than having to fight the steering wheel around a corner. It really shouldn't be a big deal, it will be able to be adjusted into spec, or something needs to be replaced (including the camber/caster adjusters on the upper ball joints), that could include TTB drop brackets or whatever.

Basically, what I am saying is there should be no excuses as to why they cant get it into spec.

 

[gmanpaint]

Exactly. With the fully adjustable cams in there, new ball joints, and tre's, there shouldn't be an issue.

I blame the techs who can't think on their own, for a bad alignment. Lol

 

[gmanpaint]

Still feels wonky, but in a different way. Isn't pulling to the right as bad, but still does. Wheel is straight now at least.

I think the Jeeper intermediate steering shaft has a bit of slop in it, and is contributing to the steering wander it has. Might just throw the old stock shaft back on. Rag joint has a crack in it, but only on one side. sigh...

 

[Turdle]

I'm gonna suggest you need 2 degrees more on the caster in the radius arm axle bushings. More caster to bring it into range will hold the wheel straighter while moving. Too much caster makes the steering go from more effort to less quickly, however, just the right amount helps hold the wheels in a straight line path.



That requires a lot of effort though so there's that to consider.


Edit

 

[gmanpaint]

Well, hmm.

Being that this has a 2" coil spring lift on it, and still has stock arms on it, changing to the adjustable bushings is an option but.....

I think if I was going to go thru all that, I would install the extended arms I have for it. I need a new set of bushings for the Rancho arms. Now the question is, stock or the adjustable type? I have heard the adjustable bushings are weak, and have plastic cams in them.

Reminds me I need to order some 1/2" 3M purple belts for the sander. Supposedly, they can grind off the rivet heads in seconds flat, and eliminate all the curse words, and frame scars. lol

 

[KurtECV]

Reminds me I need to order some 1/2" 3M purple belts for the sander. Supposedly, they can grind off the rivet heads in seconds flat, and eliminate all the curse words, and frame scars. lol

I KNOW I KNOW I FAILED YOU... pour salt in the wound why don't you.

 

[KurtECV]

I'm gonna suggest you need 2 degrees more on the caster in the radius arm axle bushings. More caster to bring it into range will hold the wheel straighter while moving. Too much caster makes the steering go from more effort to less quickly, however, just the right amount helps hold the wheels in a straight line path.



That requires a lot of effort though so there's that to consider.


Edit

agreed

 

[gmanpaint]

Pretty proud of the ole gal. She moved a 14 yard Big Tex dump trailer today. Only moved it 50 feet down a sloped driveway, but by golly she did it with no harm to her. Storm rolled in as we were doing a big roof job. Trailer was blocking the clients garage, and hail was in the storm, so the client wanted the nice new car back in. The 1 ton truck wasn't there, and wasn't coming back until late this evening. I was like, well..... ****. Let's see if Pugly is feeling young enough for this or not. lol

I watched the rear suspension as I lowered the trailer, and she squatted a few inches, but the leafs kept an arch to them. If they went flat, I would have stopped. Nope, all good. Just glad the trailer was only half full with about 30 squares of shingles. Any more, and I don't think she could have pulled this off.

Anywho... Pugly has the dancing gauge needles again. They dance in sync with power being drawn from stuff, like lights, turn signals, blower fan, etc...

I got a brand new Motorcraft Positive battery cable, but can't find a Motorcraft Negative cable anywhere. I believe I replaced the Neg cable with a Napa cable about 7-8 years ago. I also replaced the voltage solonoid at the fender back then too, along with a starter. Battery is about 3 years old. I think I will replace that voltage dealio again too. I found some ground straps on Rockauto, but man, $10/ea for them dang things. Has to be a cheaper way of replacing them. Ideas anyone?

 

[KurtECV]

Pretty proud of the ole gal. She moved a 14 yard Big Tex dump trailer today. Only moved it 50 feet down a sloped driveway, but by golly she did it with no harm to her. Storm rolled in as we were doing a big roof job. Trailer was blocking the clients garage, and hail was in the storm, so the client wanted the nice new car back in. The 1 ton truck wasn't there, and wasn't coming back until late this evening. I was like, well..... ****. Let's see if Pugly is feeling young enough for this or not. lol

I watched the rear suspension as I lowered the trailer, and she squatted a few inches, but the leafs kept an arch to them. If they went flat, I would have stopped. Nope, all good. Just glad the trailer was only half full with about 30 squares of shingles. Any more, and I don't think she could have pulled this off.

Anywho... Pugly has the dancing gauge needles again. They dance in sync with power being drawn from stuff, like lights, turn signals, blower fan, etc...

I got a brand new Motorcraft Positive battery cable, but can't find a Motorcraft Negative cable anywhere. I believe I replaced the Neg cable with a Napa cable about 7-8 years ago. I also replaced the voltage solonoid at the fender back then too, along with a starter. Battery is about 3 years old. I think I will replace that voltage dealio again too. I found some ground straps on Rockauto, but man, $10/ea for them dang things. Has to be a cheaper way of replacing them. Ideas anyone?

Build your own ground straps. the flat straps are just cost efficient in my opinion. Get a nice 12ish gauge wire and some lugs and use your little hammer pounder thingy and make your own

 

[gmanpaint]

Making my own was the idea. Just wasn't sure what wire would work best. It would cost around a hundred bucks to replace them all if I got them off Rock auto. Heck with that. Maybe a junkyard item would work, If they was in good shape.

If not, I have a big spool of 12awg.

 

[CDW6212R]

Are they the short lengths scattered around the chassis, and a flat mesh metal type? I replaced a couple of those along the side to the frame on my 99, I used some extra 10ga I had handy. Most of those don't have to move or flex, the ones on the hood I'd try to keep like stock.

 

[gmanpaint]

Yes sir. There is 4 of them on the dash alone, besides on the chassis and under the hood. This ground issue has been on my nerves for years now. Was going to replace all of them, along with the previous mentioned parts.

I have a very weird ground issue with the head unit too. This issue only happens when temps drop in the colder months. The hu can't keep it's memory. I have to reset everything on it each time the engine is started.

I agree on the hood straps being the stock style too.

 

[CDW6212R]

Test the dash grounds by the 8mm green bolts at each kick panel, those are main chassis points. If you get any odd readings from those to other wiring, that would be a worry. Those should read near zero resistance to the battery ground, the main battery cable goes to the radiator support just in front of it.