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Pugly

The Good, The Bad, & the Pugly :D

1994 Purple Explorer XLT 4wd

I decided to have a registry for my "Other" rig so I can post things done and have a reference for it.

Pretty much stock drive train.

4.0 OHV-A4ld-1354e.
D35 front 4:56 Yukon gears, Aussie Locker.
2nd gen disc 8.8 rear 4:56 gears, Spartan Locker.

Front C-Clip eliminator Mod.

Slight lift with 2" Skyjacker coils & rear F-150 hybrid leaf packs.

3" PA body lift
Helpful thread with pics for the front body mounts
Pics of front body lift mounts

Swapped to manual hubs.
Double U-joint XJ steering shaft.

35" x 12.5" x 15" BFG A/T's mounted on 15x8.5 alum wheels - full size matching spare.

Shocks:
Front Rancho 9000xl
Rear Rancho 9000xl
Duff Stabilizer shock.

Sway bar quick disconnects front & rear.
Custom tube sliders w/kickouts

22" LED light bar.
18w amber fog Led pods.
55w rock lights--2 front--1 rear over diff.
8 LED pods for rocker lights.

Full brush guard.
2.5" Fender Flares.

TTB Diff guard & Skid plate.

Custom roof rack with 48" Extreme Hi-Lift jack.

Flipped Tow hitch & front hooks for tow points.

Cobra19 CB & rear hatch mounted firestick antenna.
Rear view HD camera.
JVC DVD/CD/MP3 Head unit with 7" HD Monitor.
Sony 6.5" front speakers.
Rockford Fosgate 5.25" component rear speakers.
8" JL Audio sub in 2001 enclosure with 500w amp mounted on enclosure.

Custom made center console with CB/Rear view color monitor/2-12v outlets/ in-out temp display. D cell Maglite mounted on cargo panel. Truck bed liner on cargo floor.

'99 Eddie Bauer Front Leather buckets.
'94 Limited Rear leather split bench.


Pugsnewshoes_zpsf609e609.jpg

puglynewbrushguard1.jpg

94frontpassprofile.jpg

puglyrti2.jpg

puglyrearrti1.jpg

puglyrti1.jpg

aftermathmudbath2.jpg

puglysnewseats.jpg

cbantbracket.jpg
 


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CDW6212R

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Good, you have the big sensor to show real pressure. Those are very reliable, but they can die fast, or leak internally and come out the end or cover. Try to clean it well and see if it stays clean. I hate fixing leaks, it's a slow task that you have to go at in steps, multiple times and checks etc. Patience is valuable there.
 


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gmanpaint

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If I am understanding this correctly, the 1st gens sensor and gauge will show a variant in pressure?

I had no idea there was two types. I thought they all acted like a dummy, and was on or off, and a needle instead of a light.

I was told that the sensor can show pressure on this unit, by means of how much voltage is sent out. ie... Low voltage, low pressure.

Since I have shown that the needle does move on start up, but is now reading on the low side, and if that low voltage signal is true, that just confirms my fears of internal problems brewing.

If I'm not completely rained out this weekend, I will change the oil and filter, and hope it's as simple as a clogged filter. I might change the pcv too, just cuz.

Going to be a few weeks before I can do the top end gaskets. Work and life in general, have my time spoken for currently.

Thanks for all the advice guys, its appreciated.

Always something!!
 




Dono

347 V8 Limited turbo
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When you change your filter, cut the can off with a pair of tin snips to see what's on the filter media. BE CAREFUL, in the past it was typically a blood letting experience for me. I'm sure you will be way better at it than I was though.
 




gmanpaint

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I already pitched it.

Did the oil / filter change, and put a new pcv in. Didn't change the low gauge reading.

PCV still rattled like new, but changed it anyways. Last oil change was 2500 miles ago.

It's running fine, must be electrical ground issues with the cluster. Has to be coincidental with the issues it had a few weeks ago, and I installed new cables to help. I think it's all related to the oil leak, as everything is covered.

I bought 4 cans of foaming engine cleaner today, and will give her a bath tomorrow.
 




Dono

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Like you, I'm betting your motors fine. If it suddenly dropped like that you'd most likely be noticing other symptoms.
 




gmanpaint

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Spa day for Pugly.

Put her on jack stands, and removed the front wheels for better cleaning access. Disconnected the battery. Covered a couple items in the engine bay with saran wrap & then alum foil. Liberally covered the warmed up engine, and everything around it, including the trans bell housing. Top, sides, behind, and below got a good coat of the cleaning foam. Let it soak for a good while, then hosed it off with some good pressure, minding what I sprayed with the stream.

That dirty spot on the concrete under the engine is there from the piece of plywood I have kept under the engine for the oil leak. Kicked it back so I could wash the drive too.

94 on stands for engine bath.jpg


Most of the foam had already went away before I took these next two pictures.
94 bath 2.jpg

94 bath 3.jpg



Rinsed off. Not perfect, but not bad.

94 rinsed off.jpg


That saying about fuel injection is nice, but I rather be .... comes to mind here.

94 fan dry.jpg


Started it after a couple hours went by. She fired right up, and ran smooth. It rained all evening, and over the night. I don't think she really dried out all the way yet. We shall see if anything happened due to water shortly as she takes me to work. lol

Edit:
Well, I know this is a silly post and all, but it ran fine today, and was nice not to have the burning oil smell. Lol
 




KurtECV

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remember what i said, a lot easier to clean the engine when you pull it out... just a thought :thumbsup::thumbsup:
 




gmanpaint

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Cant argue with that logic! Lol


Today she started showing issues. High idle again, and after a 30 min ride, and shut down, she started chugging on restart.

I replaced the ecm temp sensor years ago, and might have to change it again. 100% certain it was aftermarket from the local parts store. If it runs normal in the morning, that should tell me what I need to know.
 








gmanpaint

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We did that on the 95 like 10 years ago. Surprised you remember that. Lol

I changed the oil sensor on this rig like 2-3 years ago.

So to add to the list, the temp gauge stopped working too.

Something ain't right with the cluster. Sigh....
 




410Fortune

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IVR? Instrument voltage regulator?
 




gmanpaint

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Isn't that a part of the cluster, but built into the circuit board?

Heck, been trying to find the damn ground wire to the 94 cluster so I can check it, and add another for good measure.

So I'm torn here. Do I change both temp sensors today, or hunt for a new cluster? I know someone is going to say break out the multimeter, but without a diagram showing wire color/locations, that's not gonna happen.
 




410Fortune

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Yes the IVR is part of the cluster but it can be removed and replaced, it pulls right out of the circuit board....lets see if we can find some info on EF with a search
The IVR can be tested with multimeter I know that much\
It has been a while since I have dealt with IVR
They can cause irratic readings on the gauges that have "regulated" voltage like the oil pressure and tachometer? Like I said its been a while I think all clusters have them from like 86-2004 in one way or another
 




gmanpaint

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Good to know! I was thinking it was an integrated part soldered to the board.

I went ahead and bought the temp sender and sensor, plus a new oil sender. Dang the prices have gone up on these things!
 




410Fortune

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That gen I is sure looking pretty! The deeper we get into this thing with the late models ($300 wheel bearings, 100 rotors) the more I appreciate the older trucks.
 




gmanpaint

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LOL, Pugly got it's name for a reason. Purple & Ugly! She has a bad side to her, and I rarely take pics of it, as she don't like that. I'm not gonna piss her off anymore than she already is either! Wimins! Whatcha gonna do? But she appreciates any cat calling! :D

Brakes on this are twice as much as brakes on a 2nd gen up front. Glad Pugly has a 2nd gen 8.8 too! $40/ea for an aftermarket rotor. Hell, I had to give a $65 core charge per caliper, and the rebuilt units was like $35. When core charges are high like that, it just tells me they are fewer & fewer in numbers. Won't be long before we can't get them anymore. :( But I do understand what your getting at with the way things are and heading.

Thanks a bunch Don! Problem is the 94 is all alone in the 1st gens on so many items, and electrical is one of them. If I replace the cluster itself, it has to be from another late model 94 to match the production date. Yes, they changed programming in the ECM's this year too. (guy can't catch a break sometimes)
 




CDW6212R

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I thought so. My 92 Mark VII is like that, some owners have had airbag issues, and they swear a 90-91 airbag module won't work. I hate when Ford changes things too often, it makes maintenance and repairs awful.
 




gmanpaint

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Well, the temp needle stopped working on this. I didn't swap the new temp sensors yet because of that. Just going to find another 94 cluster and swap it out.

Decided to remove the jeeper intermediate steering shaft, as it wasn't lining up on the gear box shaft splines well. I have had to mess with it more than I like.

Got it off, found the stocker, and when I went to install it, I had two light bulbs go off.

First light was telling me I need to align the steering wheel by moving the tie rods.

Second light was telling me I needed to install the body lift steering extension as the stocker is too short.

That's when CRS kicked in. Spent a couple hours searching for it, and gave up for the night. The hunt will continue in the morning. Lol

20191102_164537.jpg


Edit:

After spending last night, and half the day today, searching for that PA extension, I came to the conclusion that I must have gave it away, and don't remember doing that. This wasted an entire decent weather weekend, and has seriously depressed me. I don't feel I'm that I'm old enough to start losing my mind!! Ugh...

I put the dang Jeeper steering shaft back on.

PA doesn't sell that thing by itself, and I'm not buying another lift kit just for that darn thing either. lol
 




gmanpaint

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Found that dang steering shaft extension. Wasn't even looking for it! Lol, that's the way it goes!

In other news...

The ladder rack is bolted to the roof. It has 1/4" plates underneath that sandwich the roof. I have a ladder that lives on it for work, and once in a while, a longer ladder is used.

Well, the roof cracked in 2 places from the rack bouncing. As snow slowly melted, it leaked and soaked the headliner, and ran down, soaking the carpet as well.

I did a temp fix with gorilla brand flex tape, and silicone. Hoping it helps until spring. Need to gut the interior trim, to remove the liner, and weld the cracks.

Need to change the square plates, to round, and add some bracing.

Or, just need to stop using this rig for work, and get a truck. Lol

Poor Pugly.
 


Join the Elite Explorers for $20 per year. Gets rid of the ads! New $5 per month "try out" option.

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gmanpaint

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Easter Egg post!! If your following this thread, lucky you! :D

Cleaning out the shop, and found some parts that need a good home. PM me an offer, you pay for USPS flat rate shipping, in the lower 48.

D35 TTB 4:10 R&P, complete open carrier, Thrush washers, and bearing caps included with good spicer yoke, in great condition. L&R Outer axle shafts with surface rust, good splines & joints.

TTB D35 410 & axles.jpg



Full set of 4.0L OHV Rocker / Lifters including head bolts, and what I think might be intake bolts. Lifters are not pictured, but are in working order, and soaking in trans fluid in a jug.

91-91 4.0L OHV lifter set with head bolts.jpg


94 Limited Explorer center caps. 2 rear, 1 complete hub front, and 1 hub front center, but missing the outer ring. So so cosmetic condition, can use a little TLC to shine them up, but no cracks.


94 limited center caps.jpg



Also have a nice set of 94 heated Limited side mirrors, and tan door panels.
 




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