Section525 - D44 2nd gen. leaves SAS

[jasonb]

Why didn't you want to use the waggy springs? I think YJ's may be a little soft for the Explorer. They are pretty short too. Not sure how that will play into things but I guess you could use them. That's what I put under my Zuk, but then again its a lightweight.

 

[section525]

I was planning on keeping them for at least the mock-up (I think the guy said they were pretty wasted on the phone), and when I got to his house he still didn't have it out because the rear bolts were being a PITA. So he asked if he could just torch them and I said sure.

Soooo... what would be a better leaf you think JB?

 

[jasonb]

I don't know really.. I've never really thought about it much for the Explorer. The YJs may be fine, I don't know. The lifted ones are probably a little stiffer anyway. I'd think YJs would at least flex well under an Explorer. I've just seen most folks using waggy springs for their swap, but that may be because they got them with the axle. Maybe one of those nice folks that have done that swap will chime in with why they used them.

 

[section525]

I know 034X4 used custom ones and RockRanger used a hybrid (which I thought was mostly YJ leafs).

They have a Heavy-Duty 6 leaf application I may just have to experiment with.

 

[tdavis]

I thought YJ's are too soft for the weight of an Explorer..

With Waggy's, you also get an offset pin I do believe.

Shackles up front, or behind?

 

[tdavis]

Oh, and I also have a set of 1.5" add-a-leaf for YJ's, already installed in a custom 6 leaf pack with brand new bushings that I might let go for a smokin' deal..

 

[j602]

I'm using Pro Comp lifted (2.5") YJ springs. They're pretty soft and settle down close to flat under the weight of the Explorer. They flex and ride well though.

I also MIG'd the perch to the casting. Seems to be holding up ok.

 

[section525]

Tom.. PM me with a price. I'll probably go that route.

As far as shackles, I talked to Matt at THaven and had planned on going in front like he did. But I was going to wait until I got the leafs and perches on so I could see where things were happening.

I know there will probably be a better ride with them in the rear. But since this Explorer sees about 2,000 miles a year.. it's really no big deal.

Should I try to aim for the rear though?



Josh.. are yours 2.5" more than stock while still SUA?

 

[tdavis]

So it goes like this:

shackle in front = no need for a long travel driveshaft, some bumps cause problems, you can bend springs when you hit a rock that refuses to move.

shackle in rear = you need a long travel driveshaft ($$$), you need to move the front up even more because when you compress the suspension it puts the tires into the firewall, the vehicle asorbs some bumps better, and you can bend a spring when backing up and hitting a rock that refuses to move.

I prefer a reverse shackle on the zuk, which puts the shackle in the rear, simply because it improves the approach angle. I have slided up on rocks instead of bumping them with the shackle.

It's not hard to setup either ones.

 

[410Fortune]

Arc I have been told is easier, because with the stick it is easier to stay on track as you follow the line you are pushing
Also the arc welds I have seen are friggin strong! But a MIG should be find, like Tom said if you got it right.
To me those look good, but the hammer and grinder will tell the tale.

I am a newbie to this stuff so talking about it helps me learn, so far some pretty good advice here.

MY father also has a super old 220 arc in the garage. I am kinda scared to plug it in, might catch fire. Its friggin old!

 

[slravene]

subscribing

 

[grljeeper]

Matt... do you have any pics/advice about the driver's side spring perch?

I bought just a standard off the shelf set of perches from summit. They were like $15 if I remember right. Then the driverside one I just grinded on till it fit. Then to make the driver and passanger side the same hieght i built a 1/2" spacer into the passanger side spring perch. I also just mig welded it on with .035 fluxcore wire that was in welder. Havent had a problem yet.

I mocked up the front end leaving the ubolts just slightly tightened and put the front axle on jack stands with the knuckles off. Then I put the floor jack under pinion and jacked the pinion up till I had 7 degreees of caster in the front end measuered with an angle finder and a piece of all thread going through the ball joint mounts on the inner C's. Tack welded the perches on tehn pulled teh axle out and welded them on fully. Moving a front axle by yourself is PIA.

For my springs I am using a 5 leaf Yj pack with the shortest spring removed. Then I took the second spring out of a ranger rear pack and cut it to fit in te yj pack as the second leaf.

I also reused the waggy spring plates u bolts and lower shock mounts. I did have to trim a bit of the sping plate to keep the shock from hitting it at full drop.

I plan on running the leafs for a year or so till I get the money to link it. Coil suspensions fit much nicer but I have less then $200 in my front suspension where if I linked it I would be over $1000.

This is RockRanger under my girlfriends login.

 

[410Fortune]

Sure it is! We all know shes the real brains behind the truck builds
hahaha

 

[FROADER]

So.... any suggestions?

I suggest you quit your yappin' and start building!!

 

[JoshC]

Subscribing too! This should be sweet.

Trying turning your heat up one more notch and weld like that again, you'll have an even better result. But i'm with Jason, pretty darn good for someone that hasn't welded for years!

I'm never seen the lack of hubs like that before, what is that exactly?

 

[redranger4.0]

Okay.. maybe I'll aim for a 5x5.5 conversion. I wanted to keep it Ford anyways!

Matt... do you have any pics/advice about the driver's side spring perch?

http://ttsfabworks.home.mchsi.com/perch.htm

check those out, really nice HD anti rap perchs specifically made for the waggy axles

 

[jasonb]

I'm never seen the lack of hubs like that before, what is that exactly?

That's their "autohub" I guess you could call it. Just no selectability with it.

 

[034x4]

It's called drive flanges.

I agree with 410, I wouldn't MIG the drivers side perch on. I have a 220v lincoln Arc that I welded everything with. Grab some nickel rod for the cast welding.

 

[breel]

why spend the money on nickel rods? if you put a grinder to the metal and you get sparks you don't need the expensive nickel rods. Of course when is the last time anybody saw "cast iron" used on a car? Cast iron is porous with a high silica content, put heat to it and the nickel fills the voids when you burn the impurities out. Cast steel doesn't have all the trash in it so you don't need the nickel

 

[SkanlaxJMO]

so when does the truck go under the knife?