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Slider Options -Recommendations Thread

Turdle

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I have a couple of questions concerning slider construction.

The first sets I was in on building were 3/16 2x4 but I would like to save weight.
How about 1/8" 2x4 instead?


Second option would be 3/16" 2x2 with 2x2 bracing.

Second question. Am I being too lazy if I weld the bracket to the frame?
 
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FROADER

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From your options I would say, #2 would be fine.

Here's what are (welded) on Mark's explorer.
2x2" .120" tube (main body and mount legs)
1.5" .120" DOM tube (kick outs)
4x4" 1/4" Plate (mounting leg foot pads)

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=100121

Welding to the frame doesn't make you lazy. It makes you confident in your work and know that you won't need to take them off for any reason. :D
 
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Turdle

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Well, I went out to a local industry which has been a little slow and got some good steel from them.
What they had that I could use was 3/16" 2x2 which they cut to length for me.

I also got a chunk to use for the kick outs, and 6 -3/8" 3x6" plates for the frame mounts.
 
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section525

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Weld them things on. I was thinking about making new ones out of tube and .120 wall like Froaders. Mine right now are waaay overkill.
 
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IZwack

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1/8" rectangular works fine - just try to put the welded seam on top to minimize splitting the tube.
 
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JDraper

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I've seen 1/8" tubing bend and buckle when someone put the weight of the vehicle on it when it was resting on a pointed rock. I've always made my sliders out of 1/4" wall 2 x 4 tubing and I've never seen one buckle or even bend for that matter. Yes, they weigh a little more, but they definitely will take the abuse.
 
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Brian1

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3/16" or thicker if you plan to use them! 1/8" is just not enough and will dent. my Jeep sliders have 1/8" tube on the outside and they are in rough shape with many dents but I (ab)use them alot!
 
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dkchrist

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1/8 is not much for a 4000 lb+ vehicle

2x2 should be good but 2x3 would be better
 
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RockRanger

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Mine are 2x2 .25 wall. I have had some nasty 4' drops onto them and they are still fine. It all depends on how hard you plan to wheel. For a small rock here and there or to brush up against a tree then 1/8" would probably work. If you plan on wheeling it hard 3/16 or thicker is the way to go. I bolted mine if I did it again I would weld them on.

I am getting ready to build some sliders/steps for my father inlaw's 1972 blazer. I am going to use 3/16" rectangle on the bottom. and 1/8" for the tubular part. They are mostly for a step to help him get in. I will be shocked if they ever touch a rock or a tree. He just wont wheel it that hard. Even though it has a doubler lockers and pretty flexy suspension.
 
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IZwack

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1/8 is not much for a 4000 lb+ vehicle

2x2 should be good but 2x3 would be better
Not always true - if the pressure is placed on the 3" face, then a 2x3 would have a greater chance of deforming when compared to a 2x2 since the stress point is likely further away from the two supporting perpendicular sides - much like a bridge of a longer span can support less weight than a bridge of a shorter span.

But getting back to the subject - since we are afraid of deforming the bottom face of the rectangular tube, then maybe we can weld on a 1/8" thick flat bar running the entire length of the 1/8" square tube.
 
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94whiteX

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About how long should the main body be for a 4 door 1st gen X?
 
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RockRanger

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About how long should the main body be for a 4 door 1st gen X?


um measure the distance between the wheel wells. Maybe an inch or two shorter depending on how close the tires come to the body at full stuff.
 
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ProjectAviator

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I think mine are about 5 ft if I remember coruptly. I just need to get the damn things put on. been decorating my patio for over 3 yrs.
 
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Turdle

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So I was told stick welding will actually burn carbon back into the metal. Other methods actually burn the carbon out. This makes the surrounding metal weaker-

Should I weld the slider brackets to the frame with a stick welder? If so, which rod should i use and approx what current setting. I have a Lincoln 225a stick welder.

Or, should I use a 180a MIG? I use c25 gas

And do you stick weld up hill, or drag it down hill?
 
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IZwack

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Mig - don't worry about carbon, its "low carbon" steel from the start :).
Posted via Mobile Device
 
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JDraper

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I've stick welded several sets to the frame with no problems. Never had one break free or buckle. I usually weld downhill :)
 
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rookieshooter

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And do you stick weld up hill, or drag it down hill?

If you go with stick welding, up gives the best weld but is hard to master unless your fairly good. Hard to explain, but you have to keep the rod tip to the side longer then the middle of the joint. Vertical down is much much easier.
If your going to do overhead, turn heat down about 15% lower and hold rod straight up and down.

You might think mig on this project. I have a mig and stick. But I use the stick mostly just to keep in practice. In fact I'll be doing some exhaust but will use the stick just to keep in practice.
If you go with stick I would practice on scrape pieces the same thickness and angles you will be doing.

You may also want to weld a bracket to frame and then bolt on slider. This is how I did one.
 
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