The Black Hole

[Glen4X4]

When in 4auto the axle will engage and be live until the truck is shut off, but yeah the drive shaft will then rotate but you won't get any binding unless a rear wheel slips and the clutch engages momentarily. You don't need to worry about over heating your transfer case. The 97+ Explorers run like this all the time since they have a full-time live axle.

 

[gmanpaint]

Well, I will give it a trial run, see how it reacts with the rear locker. Sometimes when turning, the rears tend to "Bark" from wind up. If the T-case kicks in the fronts, it might be a jolt on the new gears.

 

[Glen4X4]

Well, I will give it a trial run, see how it reacts with the rear locker. Sometimes when turning, the rears tend to "Bark" from wind up. If the T-case kicks in the fronts, it might be a jolt on the new gears.

Yeah....I wasn't thinking about it being locked in the front. You could always do the brown-wire-mod, it makes for better 4wheeling if you use high at all so its not a jolt on the front. You could install a 3way toggle that way you can run 4auto to have your axle running live but cut the power from the GEM to the t-case off then when a rear wheel slips the clutch won't engage.

 

[CDW6212R]

I'm fuzzy about the 95/96 trucks and their TC. If you have a 4WD Auto and not 4WD HI like the later trucks, then the front will only engage when the module detects a difference in speed between front and back. You would have to hot wire that brown wire to make it engage in that case.

But also, if you have the front axle not energized, then the front driveshaft should freewheel at what speed it likes. That sounds like what I've read described about the later F series trucks. They have the front axle disconnect, and the electronics have to match the speed before engaging it I believe(TC clutch).

 

[gmanpaint]

That's very interesting Don. I really need to research this subject.

 

[gmanpaint]

Well, the gears got broken in the old fashioned way. By taking the rig to Moab, & trails up in the San Juan Mtns in Ouray CO. Everything worked out good, except my trans got hot a lot. Made the decision to go full manual. That will be coming soon!

For now, the newest update is the front sway bar disconnects.

These were hand made by DkChrist, powder coated by Turdle.

In this pic, I have the old end links and the new disconnects.

I used the red energy suspension bushings from my old links for the new disconnects.

Pass side install

Drivers side installed

I also had to have something to limit my travel when they are disconnected, so I opted for a cheaper way, these are ranger tailgate cables. $10/pc. The rig is on a floor jack and the wheels are at full droop in the pics.

Drivers side

Pass side

I should get a lot of articulation when these are disconnected. Get rid of that Bobble head action with the sway bar still connected.

I have to say, these disconnects made by DkChrist are very nice, heavy duty, and will outlast the rig most likely. I think you can get a set from him if you ask him real nice like

 

[V8powerbaby]

very nice gregg those disconnects look mighty beefy

 

[blueka]

Me likey!!!


Si

 

[Sbyrne97]

what lift springs did you buy?

 

[gmanpaint]

what lift springs did you buy?

They are custom made from a local shop here. Most spring shops can make you a set as cheap, or cheaper than the sets you find online, or at 4x4 stores. Call around.

 

[gmanpaint]

Latest:

Wasn't happy with the front drivers lights used for rock lights.
SO...........

I installed 2 more 55 watt mini's for rock lights in the front. These are a major improvement for seeing at night. They will light up the area around the tire, where I can lean my head out the window and see whats going on. Perfect for changing a C/V axle in the dark as well.

 

[gmanpaint]

Driver seat repair

Well I had a broken drivers seat, so I decided to take it apart and see if it was something I could fix myself.

After removing the seat, I removed the power assembly carriage.


I found the problem with 2 springs that had came off, making it a real PITA...pun intended....It made it so the air pump was hitting my tail bone..ouch!


I also had a problem with the lumber going flat. As soon as I inflated it, it would deflate. I removed the side plastic trim, and found a mess of vac lines and one was almost disconnected. I simply pushed it back in place.

Vac lines

Then I attacked the back section. I wanted to inspect the lumber support.
I found that the rear cross support had broken the tiny tack welds to the frame. I used some heavy zip ties to hold it into place. The bladder tube seemed alright, so I figured the seams was the cause of the air leak, due to age. Bag is a heavy nylon of some sort, and has rods going through the sides, to hold it to the frame.

I also found that the foam that covers the lumber bag, is thinner in this spot, so with the bag fully deflated, you really feel the lack of support. Need to figure something else out down the road.



Put it all back together, and reinstalled it. Everything works just great. I was thinking I had to go and find another seat, but this worked out perfect. It only took a couple hours of my time, and saved me some cash.

 

[CDW6212R]

Good job, I have a broken right seat that needs help. The inside hinge is broken and I think the seat back has to come off to work on it. Thanks for the pictures.

 

[gmanpaint]

Good job, I have a broken right seat that needs help. The inside hinge is broken and I think the seat back has to come off to work on it. Thanks for the pictures.

No Prob

One of the reasons I post pictures, hopefully it might help someone else one day.

When removing the seat back, you have to do 2 things. 1st is to remove the plastic (black) snap clip that runs along the entire bottom of the seat back.
2nd is to stick your hand up into the rear of the seat, and there is another shorter(8" aprox) snap clip attached to a cloth membrane, that loops over the lower cross support. Once that is loose, you can freely lift the entire seat back off the seat frame.

The bottom seat cushion is a bit harder. This will take some removal of the switches, power rail, plastic trim, vac lines, springs, and some adhesive to break free. A much more daunting task to say the least.

 

[CDW6212R]

Thanks, I learned how to remove the motors recently from the tracks. I bought two new seat tracks, and I have a spare memory seat. I'll put two in my Mountaineer knowing how the system works from my Limiteds. You don't need that for an off road truck do you, LOL?

 

[techieman33]

Thanks, I learned how to remove the motors recently from the tracks. I bought two new seat tracks, and I have a spare memory seat. I'll put two in my Mountaineer knowing how the system works from my Limiteds. You don't need that for an off road truck do you, LOL?

Just because your driving off road doesn't mean you can't be rolling around in "luxury." I'm sure some of the off road guys have much nicer seats than your limited got from the factory I know my brother does.

 

[CDW6212R]

I know, I was thinking of guys who go fording in deep water. Few here do that I think. I'm talking about the memory seat feature, which is a lot of electronics and special seat motors.

 

[gmanpaint]

I decided to redo the pictures thru the entire thread. Have another look thru, and see for yourselves.

 

[Turdle]

Nice. I like

 

[Glen4X4]

Thread looks nice with the pictures all re-laid out. Didn't want to go the Body lift route before but seeing your truck makes me want to do that with 33's and tt with shackles.