The Black Hole

[rickybobby]

I have a copy of the template that stick-o used to make his plate, i can try to upload it for you if ya want

 

[CDW6212R]

They are the same boxes greg, ranger,explorer, crown vic, 150,250,350 same part #'s look though oreilly's or auto puk

If those are the same, then maybe they are also like the boxes from 70's big Fords, and if so, they swap with a GM F body of the 70's-80's. Hunt a Trans Am or an Iroc box, or at least see if they have the same mounting. If so, those are a Saginaw box, better than any of the Fords with two bolts on the top cover. Nascar runs them, and it is easy to get them from aftermarket, with any ratio or valving, and stops to match your vehicle. I have one in my 73 Ranchero.

 

[Twiztid]

I know there all the same boxes, but the internals are diff from vehicle to vehicle models.
the F & E series are a bit more stout then the smaller rigs & cars. This is the reason for wanting the F-150 model.

Jessi, the mount will be inside the frame with some plating added to the frame rails.

87 ford F-150 4x4
Duralast/Steering Gear (Power Steering) Part Number: 7516
Alternate Part Number: 9311
Warranty: Limited LifetimePrice: $144.99

91 ford explorer 4x4
Duralast/Steering Gear (Power Steering) Part Number: 7516
Alternate Part Number: 9311
Warranty: Limited LifetimePrice: $144.99

1995 ford Ranger 4x4
Duralast/Steering Gear (Power Steering) Part Number: 7516
Alternate Part Number: 9311
Warranty: Limited LifetimePrice: $144.99

1983 f-350 4x4
Duralast/Steering Gear (Power Steering) Part Number: 7516
Alternate Part Number: 9311
Warranty: Limited LifetimePrice: $144.99

Oreillies is the same greg

 

[gmanpaint]

Thanks guys, good stuff.

So been thinking of the radius arms to use for the SAS. I have a set of F-150 arms/caps/mounts already, but I really want a set of long arms. Seeing that the 95 is an oddity with the welded on trans cross member brackets, these will have to be cut off, and frame plated for strength. (Nothing comes easy with this rig) Then have to make a custom trans cross member for it.

So, the question in my head is this.....

1) Extend the ends of the stock arms with some 1/2" wall DOM.
2) Buy a set already done with 1" johnny joints, and gusseted cap ends, for $300 from someone selling them.
3) Make my own just like the ones for sale using the arms I already own.

:scratch:

 

[CDW6212R]

Thanks guys, good stuff.

So been thinking of the radius arms to use for the SAS. I have a set of F-150 arms/caps/mounts already, but I really want a set of long arms. Seeing that the 95 is an oddity with the welded on trans cross member brackets, these will have to be cut off, and frame plated for strength. (Nothing comes easy with this rig) Then have to make a custom trans cross member for it.

So, the question in my head is this.....

1) Extend the ends of the stock arms with some 1/2" wall DOM.
2) Buy a set already done with 1" johnny joints, and gusseted cap ends, for $300 from someone selling them.
3) Make my own just like the ones for sale using the arms I already own.

:scratch:

Make your own for sure, the stock OEM trans mounts are weak. Build a cross member and make it work with a poly urethane Mustang mount, very strong and easy to get.

 

[gmanpaint]

Make your own for sure, the stock OEM trans mounts are weak. Build a cross member and make it work with a poly urethane Mustang mount, very strong and easy to get.

I seen how Tim made his. Pretty sweet with that mount.
The long arms will be mounted right at the location of the stock trans cross member mount. So the new cross member has to be incorporated into the R/A mounts.

 

[CDW6212R]

Exactly, you can benefit from upgrading all of those parts together at one time. I need to work on a cross member someday if I get to the TC swap myself.

 

[rickybobby]

Gregg, what about using a 1st gen Duff heavy duty trans crossmember as a starting point? As long as the frame width is the same it should be fairly simple to make work. And then you could use the duff arms and have a bolt together solution that even comes with 7degree castor bushings. I know it costs a bit up front, but that will remove a ton of custom fabwork.

 

[Naasau]

Gregg, what about using a 1st gen Duff heavy duty trans crossmember as a starting point? As long as the frame width is the same it should be fairly simple to make work. And then you could use the duff arms and have a bolt together solution that even comes with 7degree castor bushings. I know it costs a bit up front, but that will remove a ton of custom fabwork.

I like it. I like it a lot. And as a bonus you could do the duff quad shock setup. <3

 

[gmanpaint]

Too much $$ for me, for the Duff arm setup. I can have long arms made out of Stock arms/DOM that will be just fine for 1/3 the cost.

Besides, I'm wanting all black/chrome or red colors for this build. Blue parts with this rig just wont look right to me. Sandblasting & powdercoating new parts is not very economical either. Rather take new raw parts and make them the color of my choice.

For the cross member, one made from scratch will most likely be what happens for this, unless someone already has one made that works for sale& the right price.

 

[rickybobby]

Whatever works for ya, i plan to use the duff crossmember/arms and modify it for my drivetrain so that there is no guesswork on axle placement, and a much smaller margin of error. If only i could get steve to give me a price on the frame and axles lol

 

[Turdle]

Personally, I'd go with stock length arms to start. This will increase your "breakover" angle.

Then wrist the passenger side arm if you need more. Mark is driving around without his arm pinned--
Heck, Joshua is driving it around like that.

Wheel it, and save the $$ for longer arms later.

 

[turboexplorer]

My arms are roughly 36" from bolt hole to bolt hole. I run the big Johnny joint at the frame end and I have no breakover angle issues at all. I'll bump sliders before my arms. They are tucked way in there though. Only 1/4" between the joint and the bottom of the frame.

 

[obie]

Hey, gman, I just wanted to say this is an awesome build! I've been reading it for a while and finally decided to pitch in. Your rig (and a few others) were my inspiration for beefing up the IFS and doing coilovers, despite you moving towards a solid axle.

 

[gmanpaint]

My arms are roughly 36" from bolt hole to bolt hole. I run the big Johnny joint at the frame end and I have no breakover angle issues at all. I'll bump sliders before my arms. They are tucked way in there though. Only 1/4" between the joint and the bottom of the frame.

Pretty much what I thought. My sliders are pretty stout and the drop on them will be lower I think.

Hey, gman, I just wanted to say this is an awesome build! I've been reading it for a while and finally decided to pitch in. Your rig (and a few others) were my inspiration for beefing up the IFS and doing coilovers, despite you moving towards a solid axle.

Thank you sir.You will like the coil over setup, it is a diff of night & day.

 

[gmanpaint]

Will have the ProComp 35's (set of 5) up for sale soon, if anyone is interested. Watch for a for sale thread in the near future.

 

[rickybobby]

You gonna sell the coil-overs and diff at the same time? if so i may be interested, i am looking at a different project for the SAS now, but i still wanna go bigger with the ex

 

[gmanpaint]

You gonna sell the coil-overs and diff at the same time? if so i may be interested, i am looking at a different project for the SAS now, but i still wanna go bigger with the ex

Yeah, eventually all of it will be for sale. So many have asked already, I don't have it in me to say no to anyone, so I will post a thread for all of it, and it will be first come first serve. Only way I know how to be fair, and not upset anyone over it.

 

[gmanpaint]

SAS parts update.

Tire choice has been decided. Staying with 35's on a D44 will be safe.
Still looking for 5x5.5 wheels.
Long arms will be on the way soon.
Custom mounts & cross member will be as well.
Still need to decide on type/size of shocks. (wont know until after swap)
Towers & coil mounts still needed.
Brake lines, calipers, etc still needed.
Front gears needed.
F/W 8.8 will be purchased soon.

Getting closer!

 

[rickybobby]

So many choices to make. There are at least a hundred options on coil mounts alone lol. I have seen a few options that are height adjustable, which would be nice if you decided to go up a size or 2 on the tires.