Torque Monster Headers Revival

[97Sandbox]

Some may know that I resurrected a set of rusted Torque Monsters which I now have on my Mounty. They had rust holes at in the area where the primaries all come together and merge into the collector, so I set out to fix that.

The TMHs did not initially look that bad, but after pressurizing the headers (using tape and a shop vac in the blow configuration) and spraying soapy water around the collectors, I realized there were a lot of holes. So I carefully hacksawed off the collectors, and media blasted off the rust.

Then I sloppily MIG welded up the holes.

And ground everything smooth again.

Then I had a coworker nicely TIG weld the collectors back on for me. Since I worked at a big plating shop at the time, I was able to get them electroless nickel plated and clear ceramic coated.

All of that worked great! But I no longer work at the plating shop (great for me, but I do miss getting parts plated). I stumbled upon another set of rusted out TMHs last weekend, and now I'm going to try to do another revival, but with more DIY means.

 

[97Sandbox]

Here's the set I scored at my local salvage yard:

At first glance, they look good -- don't be fooled. The #2 primary has a big hole at the head flange and the #3 has an even bigger hole where there was no coating between the #3 and #4 primaries.

There's so much rust down in the merge area on both headers it's hard to tell how many pinholes there may be.

My plan to start is to cut the collectors off and remove the #4 primary. Then I can start stripping the rust with phosphoric acid and figure out what needs patched. I wish I had access to a sandblaster, but I don't anymore.

 

[410Fortune]

Harbor freight cheapo media
Blasters

Good Score even with the rust

I hope mine hold up better then that they have been on my truck 20 years now!

 

[97Sandbox]

I think the way each set of these headers rusts is really dependent on how well they were coated. Due to the complex shape, these headers are not easy to spray coat nor are they condusive to electroplating (the primaries all "shield" each other as they go into the collector). These new-to-me headers are rusted in different ways from the last set I did. You can tell in the picture above it looks like no coating was ever applied between the #3 and #4 primaries -- I'm sure that's why it rusted through there.

But yes, a rusty set is much better than no set! I was considering trying to cobble together a new set by chopping up my first DIY headers and some old fox body headers, but repairing these will be much less work.

 

[Turdle]

Blasting cabinets ain't cheap, but if you get a good skatblast cabinet, and hepa blast vacuum setup ( trust me) , and, 5-7 HP compressor you'll be able to do most items. Coalescser filter, and, toilet paper filter for air into cabinet.
Later you'll want the vortex media reclaimer. It'll save money in the long run.

 

[97Sandbox]

Headers are officially dissected.

Cutting off collectors is necessary to get a welder into where the rust holes are.

Removing the #4 primary was tricky, but the deed is done now.

I figured as much as I'll be welding on these, I may as well do the two-piece driver's side delete.

It'll just be sleeved and welded all around -- no more bolted flanges or gasket.

 

[97Sandbox]

Got my headers back from the blaster today! They look good. I also picked up a section of bent 1-1/2" pipe from Speedway last week, so I'm ready to start patching. Once I get on top of some other projects that is.

 

[97Sandbox]

I'm no expert with the ol' metal hot glue gun, but I think I'm stacking tacks well enough for these not to leak too terribly.

Quick once over with a carbide burr then cartridge roll.

Passenger side header is much worse. I got two spots like this welded up and smoothed on the inside.

There's two big really bad spots on that header that I will cut out entirely and patch in with chunks of 1-1/2" mandrel-bent tubing.

Back to the driver's side, the "flange delete" is all set up in my jig (aka old fox body header).

I'll keep welding, grinding, rinsing and repeating until these TMHs are solid again!

 

[97Sandbox]

Zap zap. Not pretty, but it'll do.

Now the tricky one...
First cut out the thin garbage steel

Then make patterns

Steel "band aids"

And melt it all together

To reattach at the collector, you start from the inside.

I'll finish this one later

 

[410Fortune]

Heck yeah!!! Nice

 

[97Sandbox]

Got these boys all sealed up last night.

I ended up removing the CARB tag from the driver's side. The passenger side tag had already rusted off because it's impossible to coat behind the tag and it leaves a pocket for rust to form. I don't ever plan to live in California anyhow.

I was hoping to get these plated at my former employer like the last set, but I haven't heard back from them. I don't really have any strings to pull there anymore, it is what it is.

The alternate plan is to go through a smaller local job shop coater that can do ceramic coatings. They quoted me $325-350, which is more than I was hoping, but seems fair considering they do everything manually including blasting the headers before coating. There's a good bit of labor in all that. I could just throw $30 in VHT Flame Proof rattle can paint on, but I don't think that'll last as well as the pro-grade stuff.

When you add it all up, it makes you realize how TMHs are worth every penny. I'll likely have close to half the cost of a new set of TMHs into these when all is said and done. Good thing I don't charge myself for labor...

 

[Turdle]

if they use Cera kote, don't bother.

Jet hot is what is used here, and even then it's not going to last well. Check which they use.

 

[410Fortune]

Very interesting conversation here about header coatings

Anti seize smeered all over sounds promising actually hahaha I could see a full antiseize dip and then wrap.. could be messy but it won’t rust

Coating for headers

Coating for headers

grassrootsmotorsports.com

 

[Turdle]

Anti seize. Hmmm

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