Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread

As some of you know, I am working on building a parts list for a shortened Dana 44, long radius arm with coil overs SAS. 5:13 gears to match my rear axle and an ARB, maybe an electric locker. I have a pretty good list so far. At the same time, I am going to swap out the rear drum brakes for discs off of a 99 Explorer.

Please note: The plan is to keep this project as simple as possible with mostly off the shelf parts. I am not a fabricator, just a decent welder with a what I would consider the minimum required tools (chop saw, cut off wheels, air tools, welder, etc.), who likes doing his own work. Your opinions are welcome, but what I really need is technical advice. I have been thinking about this for several years and now have the time and cash to make it happen. Please keep on topic with your advice and don't go off on a side track about how you would do it as a four-link, or caged arms, or leave the axle full-width because that is not what I want. I want a simple-ish set up that works.

 

[BKennedy]

Its not that big of a job. Jack frame up and secure with tall jack stands, as high as I can get it in the garage. Remove front tires, and limit straps. Lower front axle down onto blocks of wood to get it as low to the floor as possible. Remove old shocks and coils springs. Clean up springs, reinstall on new shocks. Bolt in new shocks and set ride height. Measure out for new limit straps and order. Install when they arrive. Best part; TEST.

 

[DB_1]

You went with 2.0's this time around huh? I woulda made you a deal on my c/o's...

 

[BKennedy]

You went with 2.0's this time around huh? I woulda made you a deal on my c/o's...

I've always had 2.0's. I thought about that, and you tires/wheels, but I didn't want to be the start of the Ranger's demolition. I like that truck.

 

[josh40601]

Its not that big of a job. Jack frame up and secure with tall jack stands, as high as I can get it in the garage. Remove front tires, and limit straps. Lower front axle down onto blocks of wood to get it as low to the floor as possible. Remove old shocks and coils springs. Clean up springs, reinstall on new shocks. Bolt in new shocks and set ride height. Measure out for new limit straps and order. Install when they arrive. Best part; TEST.

Are you going to just fill them with compressed air, or do you have your own nitrogen tank?

 

[DB_1]

Ahh, for some reason I thought your FOA's were 2.5's.

The Ranger's deconstruction will happen regardless. Let me know if your are interested in the wheels/tires.

 

[Rick]

Ranger destruction? Oh no

 

[BKennedy]

Ahh, for some reason I thought your FOA's were 2.5's.

The Ranger's deconstruction will happen regardless. Let me know if your are interested in the wheels/tires.

Sucks, but it is what it is.

Maybe your bumps..., maybe your nitrogen tank..

Forgot I need to remove the end caps to install the triple rate helper springs and sliders.

Are you going to just fill them with compressed air, or do you have your own nitrogen tank?

I got a guy who will fill them for $10 each about ten minutes from home.

 

[josh40601]

I got a guy who will fill them for $10 each about ten minutes from home.

got it. I was going to use either off road warehouse or 4 wheel parts in el cajon, but forgot what they charge

 

[DB_1]

I just have the old school urethane competition bumps...what you have is better I'm sure.

I'm gonna hang on to my nitro set up for now. My Powertank valve is good for both Co2 and nitrogen. Im sure my nitro tank needs to be retested because I've had it so long.
You should be able to piece together a nitrogen setup cheaper off of eBay or whatnot, it just won't look as fancy as Powertank's or Polyperformance.

 

[BKennedy]

got it. I was going to use either off road warehouse or 4 wheel parts in el cajon, but forgot what they charge

ORW charges the same, $10 a shock.

 

[DB_1]

ORW charges the same, $10 a shock.

For as much as you would actually use a nitrogen setup, which isn't much, I would just use your local hook ups.

 

[BKennedy]

For as much as you would actually use a nitrogen setup, which isn't much, I would just use your local hook ups.

True. As far as the tires/wheels go, I would love to get them, but I am out of off-road money at the moment. Besides, I would need a set of custom leaf springs with the centering pin 1.5" back to do it right, and possibly a new rear drive shaft. All that adds up fast. Then, I wouldn't have anything to do next year.

 

[RockRanger]

Like the changes and upgrades. Can't wait to see it at the end of August on the week long Sierra Nevada run. I hope you can make it.

 

[BKennedy]

I emailed Radflo about instructions they say are included in the box with the shocks. I asked for specific details about removing and replacing the top cap in order to install my triple rate springs and sliders. I was informed the shocks are scheduled to be built next Monday, and Radflo offered to install the triple rate setup for me while building the shocks (should take them less than a minute) if I ship to them. I am tearing down the Explorer tomorrow morning and then its off to USPS for a priority mail box. I was not looking forward to taking apart newly manufactured shocks built by someone who is much better than I. I have experience with rebuilding coil over type shocks, because I own a set of FOA's, but the opportunity for screwing something up is always there. And, there won't be any warranty issues if there is a problem, because all I will have done is install and run them. Their customer service is already better than I expected.

 

[BKennedy]

I have a list of stuff to do while the front suspension is hanging that should keep me busy until the new shocks arrive:

Noticed the steering is limiting the drop on the passenger side. Its from the "safety washer" at the pitman arm rod end. I am going to trim the side of the washer that is contacting the drag link to see if it corrects the issue, while still keeping the washer wide enough to keep the rod end from completely separating from the pitman arm mount in case of failure. - DONE

I have quick release mounts for a second set of limiting straps for when I am flat towing. They are to keep the front suspension from unloading under hard braking. Flat towed vehicles don't normally have that much rebound, and it could easily override the tow bar and run into the back of the RV. I had it happen when I was towing the Explorer (with the old front suspension) with my Silverado, and really don't think the insurance company will eat that again. The mounts are contacting the tire on the driver side when turning. Going to relocate the mounts.- DONE

Noticed the exhaust "Y" pipe is still slightly contacting the front drive shaft at max driver side compression. Don't want to limit compression, so I am going to heat the exhaust pipe up with a torch and put a dent in it. If that works, replace the slip joint dust cover for the second time (it contacts just enough to melt the cover).- DONE

Lastly, I have two intermediate steering shafts I got from FR-425. One was a few years ago out of an XJ with U-joints. The other was a few days ago out of a 91-94 Explorer with the double rag joints. I am going to make a hybrid out of the two because I like the U-joints. It looks like I will need to shorten the XJ shaft, modify slightly the upper mount and replace the bottom end. FR did a swap and posted his results on the board. As soon as I can find the link, I will use it for reference.

 

[FR-425]

It's actually a ZJ shaft. Grand Cherokee 1993

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...ing-mod-rag-joint-to-u-joint-zj-shaft.401307/

 

[BKennedy]

Thanks.

 

[josh40601]

will you take a pic of the safety spacer issue? I just swapped to misalignments on the explorer and looking at going to the safety spacers as well.

 

[BKennedy]

will you take a pic of the safety spacer issue? I just swapped to misalignments on the explorer and looking at going to the safety spacers as well.

Sorry, I just read this post after I fixed the issue as best as I could for now. The issue is I have the BC Broncos steering, which has their special 7* tapered bolts. The pitman arm is drilled out from the bottom, in that taper for their bolts. The bolts do not allow any wiggle and prevent the bolt holes from wallowing out. There are no misalignments on the rod ends, and not enough bolt to add them. The rod end is contacting the safety washer on the bottom and the pitman arm on the top. I clearanced the pitman arm slightly, but did not want to weaken it further. I then trimmed down the front side of the safety washer. It looks to me like it might have taken care of the binding issue, but I will really find out when I get the shocks installed. Right now the suspension is hanging down about 6" further than the shocks would allow. I don't think BC Broncos considered all that travel when they designed their steering.

I think the real fix would be to drill out the pitman arm to accept a straight bolt, but it would have to be sleeved to narrow down the hole for misalignments. All that could cause the pitman arm to be weak. Unless someone makes a tapered sleeve that is straight on the inside, I am afraid to make the hole any larger in the pitman arm.

Fixed the secondary limit strap QD mounts by cutting off the original shock mounts on the radius arms and welding on new strap mounts on the back side of the arms.

While I was under the Explorer, I noticed the oil pan, and the right side valve cover, have developed leaks. The oil pan seems to be leaking all the way around, while the valve cover is leaking towards the rear. I can figure out how to replace the valve cover gasket by taking off stuff until the valve cover is removable, but to get to the oil pan, I have to either pull the engine, or cut out the engine cross member and make a new one. Replacing the engine cross member with a removable one has been on my list of stuff to do someday, so since everything's so accessible right now, might as well get to it. I had to trim a lot off of it for the axle to clear, but it still hits that bump stop occasionally. Picture of the cut up cross member.

You can see in the picture where I made marks with my finger about where I plan on cutting out the old cross member, leaving the engine mounts intact. There should be enough room left to bolt on flat plate, with a piece of 1.5" OD DOM as the cross member. It should also give me enough room to pull the oil pan, and the new cross member be high enough that the axle will not contact it anymore. It will also be stronger than the cut up sheet metal.

If you were changing the oil pan gasket, would you replace the oil pump screen? What else should I replace as a maintenance item?

 

[Kirby N.]

Dude! I have the same oil pan problem and I was thinking about fixing it the same way! I'll be taking notes. I was trying to decide if I would use a piece of tube with w poly joints. One on each end and a bolt on, or what. I did fix my lower intake leak but the stupid thing is leaking again. ALOT! So need to fix that also.

The heims misalignent thing- spidertrax used to sell these washers for 3/4" bolts in 3/4" heims. They basically just space the heim away from the head of the bolt and the mounting surface. I'll see if they still make them and post up a pic.