Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread

As some of you know, I am working on building a parts list for a shortened Dana 44, long radius arm with coil overs SAS. 5:13 gears to match my rear axle and an ARB, maybe an electric locker. I have a pretty good list so far. At the same time, I am going to swap out the rear drum brakes for discs off of a 99 Explorer.

Please note: The plan is to keep this project as simple as possible with mostly off the shelf parts. I am not a fabricator, just a decent welder with a what I would consider the minimum required tools (chop saw, cut off wheels, air tools, welder, etc.), who likes doing his own work. Your opinions are welcome, but what I really need is technical advice. I have been thinking about this for several years and now have the time and cash to make it happen. Please keep on topic with your advice and don't go off on a side track about how you would do it as a four-link, or caged arms, or leave the axle full-width because that is not what I want. I want a simple-ish set up that works.

 

[410Fortune]

Man the interior really came out nice

Did you let Tom Woods know that his expensive driveshaft still needed work?
That Russian mat looks an awful lot like the stuff they sell at Ace hardware for doing RV roof repairs hmmmmm

I LOVE THE CENTER CONSOLE
dude seriously you did a great job with the T case shifter, CB, gauges, ARB switches, etc it came out really nice!!

Atlas install turned into a pretty big deah eh?
As usual WELL DONE!

 

[BKennedy]

Thank you, Sir. I am really liking the Explorer right now.

I didn't bother calling Tom Woods about the shaft. I think they would tell me my pinyon angle is all wrong and blame it on that. They are right, its wrong, but if I turned the housing to line up the angle, I would lose all of my suspension compression, or have to raise the vehicle height 6". In any case, the angle of the pinyon U-joint should have nothing to do with the angle of the double cardan. The pinyon not being lined up with the drive shaft angle should only be a issue causing vibration at higher speeds. The rear shaft is lined up nearly perfect.

 

[BKennedy]

I ordered a new speedometer housing and gear from AA. After that, I pulled out my wiring and vacuum book for the 1994 Explorer. Now, I am totally confused. I thought the 2 wires running to the speedometer housing were for the transmission only.
The book says they are for VSS, which controls the torque converter which I don't need, and regulates fuel injection which I do need.

Wires are Pink/orange, and Gray/black. I called back and canceled the order from AA until I can figure this out.

 

[Rick]

Interesting... I don't have any VSS signal from the manual transmission in the '93.

 

[BKennedy]

I figured it out with the help of @gmanpaint and Tony at Nevada Speedometer. The 1994 has stuff no other 1st generation Explorer has. 4wheel anti-lock brakes, different PCM, VSS, etc.. Its the transition model between 1st and 2nd gen's. Tony said I should order the stuff I cancelled from Advanced Adaptors. He would build a new speedo cable, with a short adaptor type cable at the transfer case with VSS module attached that has the same connectors. Says Ford used a standard module that is easily duplicated. He also said that what I have is working, but its kind of a hack job and there is no real way to seal the cable. Its basically a TJ electronic housing with the Ford housing stuffed inside. They share the square type cable ends so it fits, it lasted a long time, but I figure with all the money I have spent on the transfer case install, I should get this sorted out as well. If I run it without the VSS, it should throw a CEL code. When I check the codes it always tells me the transmission is not connected, but that doesn't throw CEL's.

I'm also not sure if what I thought was the transfer case bottom cover seeping might be coming from the speedometer cable since its right above it.

 

[410Fortune]

what about running the AA speed sensor that fits the t case and use a $85 dakota digital converter box to send the correct signal to the 94 pcm? Or convert your 94 back to a 93 pcm since you probably dont use the 4Wabs anymore, you could ditch the vss, cam synchro and egr?

 

[gmanpaint]

Tony at N/S is a very helpful person. He helped me figure out my setup, when AA could not.
His work is not cheap, but I feel your really paying for his knowledge, experiences, and setting you up right the first time around.

As far as costs goes for this stuff, I feel you there. This stuff added up quick. Never thought I would be spending $1k on driveshafts on the old rig, so whats a couple hundred or so, to finish off the small stuff...... Like a working VSS?

Sorry my parts aren't what you need for your fix, but Tony will get you sorted out. That dude is a legend in the speedo world.

 

[BKennedy]

what about running the AA speed sensor that fits the t case and use a $85 dakota digital converter box to send the correct signal to the 94 pcm? Or convert your 94 back to a 93 pcm since you probably dont use the 4Wabs anymore, you could ditch the vss, cam synchro and egr?

That sounds like it would cost me more than this stuff. I also have to smog it in California, so messing with any emissions stuff is a no go. I don't think that VSS sensor on the transfer case has anything to do with 4WABS, its for transmission shifts and fuel injection. The speed sensors for 4WABS are on top of the rear differential, and at each front rotor. That's all gone and the rear sensor is basically a plug now.

Tony at N/S is a very helpful person. He helped me figure out my setup, when AA could not.
His work is not cheap, but I feel your really paying for his knowledge, experiences, and setting you up right the first time around.

As far as costs goes for this stuff, I feel you there. This stuff added up quick. Never thought I would be spending $1k on driveshafts on the old rig, so whats a couple hundred or so, to finish off the small stuff...... Like a working VSS?

Sorry my parts aren't what you need for your fix, but Tony will get you sorted out. That dude is a legend in the speedo world.

I am going to be in this for about $350 for everything shipped. I just got off the phone with Tony again and need to measure out a total length and where I want the VSS to mount to the frame. He also mentioned if the VSS is pushing transfer case fluid through it into the cable end, its shot and will soon stop working. The speedo cable was pulled from the donor Explorer when I did the rebuild. Mine was melted at the dash end. The transfer case end has been exposed to salt and is corroded. All this stuff needs to be replaced anyway.

Gman, you are not kidding about the costs of installing a completely different transfer case. I did the math before hand, but missed some things (like VSS and speedo cables). Total, I am into this for under 4K, but only if I can find someone who needs a Atlas II universal cable shifter.
The transfer case with the universal cable shifter
$2900 ($400 for shifter)
Drive shafts
$600
Speedo/VSS
$350
Rod type shifters
$140
Misc (bushings, hardware, welding supplies, etc)
$200
Steel
$0
= $3790

If I had taken this to a shop, I would probably be in this for double and it wouldn't be exactly how I wanted. A few of the things I came up with I think are very cool and a shop would usually not do are angled cross member mounts so that even if the bolts fell out the cross member would stay in place, and having the skid plate bolted solid against the cross member to prevent the transmission/transfer case and torque arm mount bolts from working loose. I can still remove the cross member in a few minutes.

Back to work...

 

[gmanpaint]

Sounds about right. I'm into my swap for $5k. It's all the little stuff that adds up. It's not a simple 2 hour bolt on Mod. Heck, I'm still not done. Skid plate mods, and a longer slip on the rear driveline (4R70w swap) to do still. lol

I agree on doing it yourself, if you can. Nobody can work on your stuff, to your own standards, better than yourself. End results normally give you the satisfaction from your efforts. Can't always say that about paying someone, who cares less about your stuff. When you find someone you trust, never let them go, tip them, show appreciation, and help get them more bizz, because they are few & far between. Treat those, as they treat you I always say.

For that cable shifter, Off road forums, or even FB Market place would help sell it. There really isn't much traffic here for this kind of thing. I have an Atlas parts sale thread here that has yet to get one reply, after a year or so. Not even a low baller! Lmao!

Tony is a good trust worthy guy, and I'm glad you called him. Your in good hands now. Won't be long, before your back tearing it up on the trails.

 

[BKennedy]

Did some work on the skid plates today. got them tacked up and how I want them. There are a few more additions I need to do when I pull them off tomorrow to make them a little stronger. The front or transmission skid plate is about 6" shorter, which in itself will make it much stronger. Where the skids meet is now smooth. I used some self tapping screws to get everything tight to the cross member and where I wanted it before I tacked it up. The only thing sticking up when I am finished will be the heads of 5 3/8" button hex head bolts. I thought of using tapered bolts, but the plates are not thick enough.

I am planning on trimming down the rear edges of the radius arm mounts so they angle down towards the skid plates

Where those triangle shaped gussets are on the sides, they are about 1/4" above the radius arm 1" bolts. If the skid plate starts to collapse (which I don't think it will), it will rest on those bolts for extra support. I am also going to support the underside of the bend that is hanging down the farthest by welding a piece of flat bar across the entire bend for triangulation. Its hard to see in the pictures what I am doing, but when I get it all welded up tomorrow I will mock everything up out of the vehicle and take a few pictures.

Hopefully tomorrow I will have time to pull everything out, including the cross member. I can drill out the holes for the 3/8" bolts, weld up the plates and weld nuts and get going on the torque arm.

 

[Rick]

Looks good. That's a helluva skid plate

 

[410Fortune]

Dang! I think I can do a doubler for about half that or less
the cost of the Atlas has always kept me from having one
CA emissions strikes again!

 

[BKennedy]

Dang! I think I can do a doubler for about half that or less
the cost of the Atlas has always kept me from having one
CA emissions strikes again!

The way the Explorer floor is shaped I don't think a doubler or the Atlas 4 would fit without removing the rear seat floor. Its about 6" behind the Atlas and takes a 3" dip across the entire body.

I have been working on the skid plates. Got them all welded up and smoothed out. Here is some pictures of them mocked up on my outdoor work area. I still need to drill them out for the 3/8" bolts, then build the torque arm and modify the cross member for that, and the skid plate mounting.

Goes from the front edge of the transmission to the gas tank skid.

 

[BKennedy]

I clamped the skid plates in place, and took the self-tapping screws out one at a time, then drilled out that hole through both plates and the cross member. Then, I dropped a 3/8" bolt in the hole to help hold it in place. Got the skid plates drilled out with no wiggle.

Cross member modified for torque arm and with weld nuts for skid plates (I spent about an hour trying to figure out how to recess the weld nuts into the face of the cross member before I gave up and welded them on. If I had a mill that would have been a quick job. They were the same way on the old cross member and I didn't have any issues with that. I am going to show them to my buddy Ken and see if he has another idea.

Beginnings of a torque arm. Its going to be so pretty I wish I didn't have to cover it up with skid plates. I got all the metal cut out, then gave up for the day. I should have it finished, painted and installed tomorrow.

 

[BKennedy]

Got the skid plates half way painted, but more importantly, I finished the torque arm and the Explorer is drivable again.
Skids

Torque arm test fit. The end cap thingie is to tie the supports together and acts as a bushing heat shield because the exhaust runs past there.

Took a little messing with to get all three holes to line up. Its funny how things fit perfectly on the work bench, but not when its time install.
Painted. Notice the extra holes for drainage, and because extra holes are cool.

Final install. I think it came out outstanding.

 

[gmanpaint]

Good stuff. Love the belly skids!

 

[BKennedy]

Went for about a 100 mile drive today. 25 in the dirt on mild-ish trails east of Julian. 4 Low is awesome. I was going down a grade I used to have to be in 1st with lots of braking. Went down it in 2nd and 3rd with no braking. Its also more responsive and smoother on the highway.

I am having a issue with what I think is the front drive shaft. in 4 low at under 15 MPH, everything is golden. 4 or 2 High with the hubs locked at over 15 MPH the drive shaft starts to clatter. I can't feel it through the wheel or through the transfer case shifters. Its loud and very annoying. With the hubs unlocked it goes away. I am wondering if I can go to a single joint shaft instead of the double cardan. My angles are not right for a double cardan, but it wasn't an issue before. I know the axle yoke is supposed to be pointed at the transfer case yoke. If I did that, I would lose all of my compression travel with that hi-pinyon D44. Both yokes are at almost the same angle. I am going to take it by a driveline place next week and have someone look at it.

 

[BKennedy]

Only picture I took of my outing on Saturday

I found out what the clattering noise was. Drive shaft lasted a few miles of dirt before a U-joint cap left its post and destroyed the link yoke. I did remove and reinstall the U-joints when I was clearancing the shaft but I know how to install U-joint clips.

I dug around in my junk pile and got the link yoke from the old drive shaft. I looked it over again and decided it was usable. Everything except the link yoke looked okay on the new, busted drive shaft. I had two sets of Spicer U-joints and rebuilt the drive shaft. It rotates freely at full rebound so I need another test drive. At least I know the clattering noise wasn't from anything else but a busted drive shaft. I was actually a little relieved after I was a little pissed off.

 

[BKennedy]

Went for a 160 mile drive today; freeway, highway, winding roads, fast smooth dirt, medium bumpy dirt, slow twisty dirt. Only thing I didn't do was rocks because the skid plates are not mounted, which means no rocks. I really like the low range, its low but not crazy low. Does about 14 MPH in O/D with low range, which is about half what it used to do in 3rd. Everything stayed together, nothing broke, it gets smoother with every drive. The transfer case bottom plate doesn't seem to be leaking any more so the leak must have come from the speedo housing/VSS mess I had in there. While I was under the truck a few times shaking the front drive shaft and looking for more issues, I noticed those gear driven transfer cases run hotter than the chain type. I think I am finally getting the best of this swap.

 

[BKennedy]

I was looking into the Goodyear Wrangler MTR's. I called Discount Tire and they have 4 in the entire country, not going to even try to get them to me, and Goodyear has zero in stock. So, I guess new tires are out for a while, unless I go with something else.