Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread

As some of you know, I am working on building a parts list for a shortened Dana 44, long radius arm with coil overs SAS. 5:13 gears to match my rear axle and an ARB, maybe an electric locker. I have a pretty good list so far. At the same time, I am going to swap out the rear drum brakes for discs off of a 99 Explorer.

Please note: The plan is to keep this project as simple as possible with mostly off the shelf parts. I am not a fabricator, just a decent welder with a what I would consider the minimum required tools (chop saw, cut off wheels, air tools, welder, etc.), who likes doing his own work. Your opinions are welcome, but what I really need is technical advice. I have been thinking about this for several years and now have the time and cash to make it happen. Please keep on topic with your advice and don't go off on a side track about how you would do it as a four-link, or caged arms, or leave the axle full-width because that is not what I want. I want a simple-ish set up that works.

 

[BKennedy]

I am going to see if it all fits inside the quarter panel. Tank and compressor. If it works, the only wiring I need to find is a "on in run" to activate the relay. I can power it off the aux battery, which is nearly directly below for a nice short wiring run. Need to figure out where to hard mount the air fitting, but I have a few ideas.

 

[BKennedy]

They both will not fit in the quarter panel and I am still worried about heat melting the plastic and starting a fire so I moved back to mounting them both under the truck. While holding the compressor and tank in the spare tire well, I now remember why I was thinking about doing that in the first place. They fit like they were made specifically for the space. Even clear the auxiliary battery by about four inches. I am going to make a hinged skid plate with the compressor/tank mounted to the plate. The bottom of the plate is well above the frame rails, and nearly 30" from the ground, so I am not too worried about water crossings or hitting it on the ground. It needs to be able to swing down for a few reasons; to remove the battery if necessary, and to make it much easier to install/remove. It is protected front and rear by shock mounts and frame, and on the driver side by frame rail.

I started on the skid plate/mount, but was side tracked into making a few sand spikes for holding fishing rods. The two I already have were too big for smaller rods. I wanted to make one for my nephew, so I made one for him and one for me.

Rod spikes

Skid plate/mount with compressor attached (made from some 1/8" plate I salvaged when I removed the old TV from the RV)

Ignore the small bolts, I am upgrading when time for final install.

There is a mounting plate on the "feet" of the tank, another in between where the tank and compressor bolt together, and where the carry handle used to be on the top of the compressor. I left room for rubber spacers between each mounting surface.

I started from the "feet" of the tank, tacked the mounting into place, then the tank/compressor mount, ending with the handle mount. When I went to remove the compressor, I realized I need to cut a access port into the skid plate to get to the rear bolts. It took about 20 minutes to wiggle the snugged up bolts off. If I had tightened them, I don't think I could have removed them. I could have made it with just the feet and handle mounts, but I wanted to make sure it was never going to wiggle loose.

Still need to make up some mounts for the hinged side and bolted on side. I am keeping the compressor mounts and the mounts on the body separate to hopefully keep some of the vibration of the compressor out of the passenger compartment. I am going to hit Marshall's Hardware for some hard rubber washers for the body mounts, and soft washers for all compressor/tank mounts.

I also haven't decided where to mount the air fitting and regulator. There is space to leave it attached to the compressor, but I would have to notch the rear frame cross member. Still thinking that through and will decide after the rest is mounted. Want it so I can see the pressure gauge to adjust the regulator if needed.

 

[BKennedy]

Bought all the hardware I need to finish the job, except for the possible air fitting or two. I am in this project for a total of $21. All the metal I had on hand.

I noticed there is some warping of the main plate but when I bolt in the tank and compressor it straightens it out. Its hard to weld on the thinner plates without warping them. Got the mounting brackets tacked into place and cut an access slot to get to the back bolts. Ran out of time. I should be able to install for a test fit tomorrow.

I did what nearly always happens with I rush things, I goofed; I cut the access slot on the wrong side of the mounting plate. I ended up putting the pieces back in the slot and welding it back together. If I had had any more flat bar, I would have welded a piece across the whole thing and it would have looked like I did it on purpose. Oh, well. Got it right the second time.

 

[BKennedy]

No chance to work on the rig. I am escorting the cast of the Walking Dead at Comic Con. Nice people.

 

[Rick]

Nice work on the compressor mounting plate

 

[Stic-o]

No chance to work on the rig. I am escorting the cast of the Walking Dead at Comic Con. Nice people.

My Co-worker would go nuts if I told her

 

[BKennedy]

My Co-worker would go nuts if I told her

It was fun and the pay is outstanding. Lots of standing around looking cool in a dark suit. The cast is very pleasant for the most part. They really seem to love their fans and spent a lot of time with pictures and autographs.

 

[BKennedy]

I now officially have On Board Air!
I spent the day on it and got it nearly finished. A few runs to Marshall's Hardware got me the rest of the hardware I needed. I tested it and it works. I just need to install a in-line fuse between the battery power and relay, and run the wire to the battery. I found a "on in run" wire going to the electronic shift controller, which I don't use because of the 700R4 transmission, to power the relay. I did not wire in a switch as I wanted it to be a on demand type compressor, as long as the engine is running.

Pics

Mounting / skid plate

I had to notch the cross member to clear the air fitting

Rubber bushings

You can see how its going to clear the notched cross member. It now has a 45* fitting on the air line fitting. You can reach under the bumper and plug in the hose.

I had the same issue as with the auxiliary battery install; too much movement in the floor sheet metal. Hitting the side of the compressor mount would cause a noisy vibration. As you can see in the next picture, the floor has seen better days and is buckled and warped. I welded a cross brace of 1/8" plate and it took out most of the vibration, and the floor is much firmer. The carpet and pad, seems to help dampen the effect also.

Uneven cargo area floor

The fix. I also tack welded all the bolts and washers to the floor to make it easier to mount the compressor solo. I had to mount one bolt from the underside to allow the battery to be removed (passenger front)

Crappy picture of spare tire well, now filled with goodies

Compressor mount in open position for access

After I get the wiring finished to my satisfaction, I will post a few pics of the relay location and wiring. The only modification I had to make to the original compressor configuration was the copper line running between the compressor and tank was too short to go around a mounting bracket. I found the correct bulk hose at Marshall's. I used my ferrule tool to flare the ends.

I know I posted earlier about why I decided to mount it under instead of in the fender, but there were more reasons than I posted. Your opinions really helped me decide.
I was worried about heat and possibly fire.
It was a tight squeeze inside the fender.
It fits like it was made for the space in the spare tire well.
The compressor intake is nearly 35" off the ground.
Its well protected between the frame rails.
I don't do a lot of water crossings.
This quote

The other issue is if smack a wall and push that area in on the body, that thing is toast.

Don't ask me how I know this:shifty_ey

After reading this again, I figured I would be much more likely to cave in a quarter panel than scrape the compressor off on a three foot tall rock that I would have had to scrape over with my rear axle.

 

[BKennedy]

So I was thinking again. I am leaning towards installing a on-off switch. Having the compressor come on while starting the engine puts a heck of a load in the aux battery. I am only using the compressor to air up tires and maybe light use with air tools. I wired it to come on with no switch based upon my old ARB compressor being wired that way. This compressor draws much more of a load off the battery

 

[Rick]

I have mine on a switch. Definitely don't need it on while putting on street miles.

 

[Stic-o]

So I was thinking again. I am leaning towards installing a on-off switch. Having the compressor come on while starting the engine puts a heck of a load in the aux battery. I am only using the compressor to air up tires and maybe light use with air tools. I wired it to come on with no switch based upon my old ARB compressor being wired that way. This compressor draws much more of a load off the battery

Agreed 100%

 

[BKennedy]

I will be wiring in a switch tomorrow. Located a big red KC switch in my wiring box that should fill the bill. All of my aux light switches are green. I am running out of room in the dash so am trying to figure out another location.

 

[BKennedy]

Got the switch wired in today. I decided not to run a wire up to the dash and then back to the compressor so I used the dedicated wire that goes to the switch for my elocker. It is on in run, and I don't think the compressor and locker will be running at the same time, so no worry about overloading.
Switch (found this little bright red switch in my wiring junk box)

45* fitting on air coupling to make it easy to get to. Need to go down on one knee to get to it, but I can't think of a better mounting location.

Big picture

I ran the compressor while sitting in the driver seat. It doesn't feel like it, but sounds like a massage chair. I am going to get a few more rubber bushings and put one on each side of the mounting tabs to further isolate the compressor.

 

[Stic-o]

I ran the compressor while sitting in the driver seat. It doesn't feel like it, but sounds like a massage chair. I am going to get a few more rubber bushings and put one on each side of the mounting tabs to further isolate the compressor.

It would be better if it felt like it too. Then you be just like New Explorers with fancy massaging seats

 

[Brian1]

No place on your rear bumper you could mount a quick coupler to? I don't think you are going to like it there. I used a bulkhead fitting and ran a leader hose from my tank to the bulkhead fitting in my rear bumper. See the last 2 photos and info here: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=278651

 

[BKennedy]

No place on your rear bumper you could mount a quick coupler to? I don't think you are going to like it there. I used a bulkhead fitting and ran a leader hose from my tank to the bulkhead fitting in my rear bumper. See the last 2 photos and info here: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=278651

Good info on that thread. I am still considering a "remote" mount, but haven't made a decision. I don't think the rear bumper is a suitable location because the top of it is taken up with the tire and gas can mounts. Cannot mount it to one of them because I would have to run the hose between the bumper and body and they make contact time to time.

When I off-road and have to back up with space being a issue, I have a habit of reversing until the bumper contacts whatever is behind me, so mounting it to the face of the bumper is not ideal. No, I don't do that when there is someone's rig behind me.

The sides of the bumper are definitely out as I occasionally rub them on rocks.

I thought about mounting a coupler under the hood, but don't want to have to open the hood to use it, or run that much hose. Grille mount would work, but again, too much hose. Thought about mounting it in the rear fender well, but any way I could mount it for ease of use would also make it susceptible to damage.

 

[gmanpaint]

Do you use the rear wiper fluid bottle? I have thought of using that fill hole for either a 12v outlet or possibly a recessed air hose coupler.

But you would have to open the hatch for that, so that might not be ideal.

 

[BKennedy]

Do you use the rear wiper fluid bottle? I have thought of using that fill hole for either a 12v outlet or possibly a recessed air hose coupler.

But you would have to open the hatch for that, so that might not be ideal.

Great idea, but I would need to run the hose through the body. Opening the hatch is not a big deal.
I got some thinking to do.

 

[Stic-o]

Put your tail light on a hinge

Then you can hide it.

 

[BKennedy]

Put your tail light on a hinge

Then you can hide it.