JoshC's SAS #2

I guess i'll follow the trend like so many others on here. D44, 9" full width. I picked these axles up late last year or early this year i don't remember and they've been in the garage taking up space. I've been gathering parts for a little while too.

So far i've got:
-Yukon 5.13's
-Quick Loc locker for the D44
-Full steel spool for the 9"
-Radius arms drilled and tapped to fit the lower ranger coil bucket so i can keep my existing coils
-New ubolts for the leafs

I think that's about all i've got. The 9" third member is done, we regearded it a couple of weeks ago. We started on the 44 and quickly noticed that the idiot at the local off road shop, which is no longer in business, sold me a low pinion gear set So now i'm stuck with this gear i can't even use :fire:

Here's what i got done last night and today

I'm head up to the shop tonight to swap my tires over to my new rims. I think i may pick up a set of new radius arms, maybe something like the james duff arms like these

 

[JoshC]

Well i went back and searched and found where i bought the axle and the guy said it was a 78. Went out and measured and with your numbers it confirmed it was a 78. I also have a spare set of shafts that equals a 1310.

So i went back up and looked at redranger's picture with the colors on it. If i torched off the C's (if i do with a 3 link or similar) then there is nothing below them that i can really weld to. Really i'd just be cutting them off for looks right?

 

[redranger4.0]

Well i went back and searched and found where i bought the axle and the guy said it was a 78. Went out and measured and with your numbers it confirmed it was a 78. I also have a spare set of shafts that equals a 1310.

So i went back up and looked at redranger's picture with the colors on it. If i torched off the C's (if i do with a 3 link or similar) then there is nothing below them that i can really weld to. Really i'd just be cutting them off for looks right?

If you torch off the Wedge there isnt anything under their period just air. that cast peice is a structural part of the housing. i would suggest selling your axle and finding a housing from a f250 from 78-79 should be the same width and will be with out the wedges, and still HP

 

[Stic-o]

The wedge is the tube!

You can use C wedges or you can use C wedges. That's it:

I like mine just fine though. It flex's just fine.

 

[redranger4.0]

The wedge is the tube!

You can use C wedges or you can use C wedges. That's it:

I like mine just fine though. It flex's just fine.

he wants a 3 link though. plus some dont like the effects of radius arm suspension

 

[Stic-o]

he wants a 3 link though. plus some dont like the effects of radius arm suspension

Why...I really like mine, It flex's well and is great on the Street. and no sway bars

 

[FROADER]

he wants a 3 link though. plus some dont like the effects of radius arm suspension

A radius arm setup is 3 link, but I know what you mean.

Why...I really like mine, It flex's well and is great on the Street. and no sway bars

Same here, especially with the wristed arm.

 

[JoshC]

I really have no problems with the radius arm setup except that it is just like torsion bars in that it is something that will hang you on a rock. And i also want to be a bit different.

 

[IZwack]

I really have no problems with the radius arm setup except that it is just like torsion bars in that it is something that will hang you on a rock. And i also want to be a bit different.

3-links and 4-links also drag on rocks. My vehicle has a few scars on the lower links after just one run in Paragon. It all depends on link placement (chassis and axle), arm length and tire diam. Looking at rock buggies, their lower links are meant to be rubbed on rocks as they are placed pretty much as horizontal as possible for best suspension characterstics (anti-dive/squat) with a very low center-of-gravity.

 

[JoshC]

I realize that, everything is going to drag sometime. Mine now does not drag. Mine are also short, like 28" or what ever it was i said earlier. The longer they are the lower they will hang. But a radius arm is going to be horiztonal like a torsion bar.

 

[james t]

So run a stock length wristed arm.

And yes, you are basically stuck with the cast wedge housing. You can either keep it and go radius arm, or sell it and find an F250 or 75-76 housing. You cant put link mounts on it because they would have to be too far inward to clear the casting area.

 

[Kirby N.]

My stock length Radius Arms seem to be right about the right length. They are long enough that it flexes well, and short enough that they don't hang up on stuff. MY frame mounts are tucked up alot tighter than others. I am using mounts from a 2x4 70s F150. They don't hang up too much with 37s either...

 

[JoshC]

Can a couple of you guys with the radius arm setups with SFA post a side picture of your truck so that we can have several references in this thread?

 

[Joe93]

im using the same hangers as kirby, ive seen his set up and they dont hang down in the way at all. they are like 3 inches shorter then the 4x4 ones. or something like that.

 

[FROADER]

I've got stock length radius arms going into the Sky Jacker ttb 6" lift cross member/bracket. I'll snap a pic in the morning when it's light out.

 

[Kirby N.]

Close up of mine :http://groups.msn.com/KirbyandChuck/kirbysnavajo.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=146

Best Side shot I got on line:

http://groups.msn.com/KirbyandChuck/carnage.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=212

 

[Stic-o]

Mine just double as under carrige sliders

 

[JoshC]

Mine just double as under carrige sliders

LOL, now there's an advantage i haven't thought of!

Those do look pretty slick Kirby.

Anyone have a good thread anywhere that is bookmarked about wristing?

 

[FROADER]

Here is the Sky Jacker cross member/RA mount

This one isn't a how to but you can see how my arm was made was made.

 

[james t]

^ There is no way you are going to get hung up on that

 

[FROADER]

and I don't, or haven't. I'm really happy with my set up except the fact that it's not full width...yet.