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Starting full width D44 SAS...B4 I order, what do you guys think??

Starting full width D44 SAS...FINALLY!!! (Update)

Like the title says..I feel that I am ready to begin my SAS and have compiled a shopping list. I'm wanting some opinions/thoughts/ideas about the list before I continue on. Also note anything I may have left out. Your help is appreciated.
There are a few things (in red) that I will need your help on, any ideas?
Things that I have/received are bolded!

D44 Front
-1978 Ford Bronco HP D44 Full Width (Moved Forward 2")

-78-79 Coil Spring Towers Pair (Broncograveyard Fab 1/4" steel brackets to space it out 2")

-Stock 1978 Bronco Lower Coil Retainer/Spring Cup (Turned around?/moved 1" in?)

-Wildhorse Rock Crawler 5.5" Black Coil Springs (Wildhorses4x4)

-Rancho RS9000 adjustables. I 've heard they give you 13" of travel

-Front Shock Towers F250 Shock Towers #E5TZ-18183-A

-Yukon 4.88 Ring and Pinion Gears

-Detroit Electrac Locker (DrivetrainSpecialists)

-Master Overhaul Install Kit (Broncograveyard)

-D44 Yukon Chrome Moly 4340 Front Axle Set (Broncograveyard)


-Extreme Outer Rebuild Kit (Broncograveyard)

-Caliper Left/Right Rebuilt (Local Napa)

-CAGE Offroad Tubular Radius Arms CAGE Offroad

-CAGE Offroad Radius Arm Mounts (Fab 1/4" Steel Brackets to space out 2")

-1994 Explorer Drag Link (Ford Parts Network)

-1978-1979 Stock Tie Rod (Broncograveyard)

-SuperLift Adjustable Trac Bar (Broncograveyard)

-78-79 Bronco Trac Bar Drop bracket (Broncograveyard)

Ford 9 Inch

Yukon 4.88 ring and Pinion Gears (Broncograveyard)
Detroit Locker (Randy's RNP)
Spring Perches (4WheelParts)
Master Install Kit (Broncograveyard)
WARN Leaf Spring Shackles (4 Wheel Parts)



2" Body Lift (liftkitdepot.com # PER792)

Wheels
15x10 Steel Rock Crawlers (Series 97) (4WheelParts)

Tires
36x13.5 IROK Radials (4WheelParts)
 


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Kirby N.

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I dont think you're going to be able to use an off the shelf draglink. Yes, the draglink and the tracbar are supposed to be at the same angle... or at least really close. You can change this by going with a straight draglink or raising the tracbar mount at the frame.

If it were me i would leave it as-is for now, and start rounding up stuff to do the GM one ton tierod flip in the future. All you need is a reamer, 4 TRE's, and some tube for a draglink and tierod. Thats the bad thing about the F150/big Bronco knuckles... the steering arm is really low. This makes the tie rod very vulnerable. Flip the TRE's to mount over the knuckle and this gets everything up out of the way. If you plan on wheeling it in anything other than mud then i would take the stabilizers off as they are going to get torn off.

Here's what your angle should look like with a straight draglink-

What? His angle looks fine. You can have all kinds of bends in a draglink, but the two end mounts are what determines the opperating angle. Straight or bent, draw a straight line between the two joints on the end of your drag link, and that angle is what is important. You can have a W bend in it and the geometry will be based on the ends it pivots on. That line James has drawn is the angle that counts, despite the fact that it is bent. That line looks pretty parralell to your trac bar to me. Might be a different length though.

ID is right on...
 


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ohe_boy

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thanks for the bumpsteer lesson ld50. I never knew thats what bumpsteer was. I thought it was the pulling of your vehicle to one side when you hit a bump or an uneven road. My steering just seems "loose" as if it had very little power steering control. My steering sways from 11 o'clock to 1 o'clock when driving. Is this normal for a solid axle?

Anyway I know the angle is good but I gotta check the lengths between the two. See how close or off they are.

The backspacing on the wheels are common for a 15x10. I think its 3.45


THANKS FOR THE COMMENTS GUYS!!!!
 




james t

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What? His angle looks fine. You can have all kinds of bends in a draglink, but the two end mounts are what determines the opperating angle. Straight or bent, draw a straight line between the two joints on the end of your drag link, and that angle is what is important. You can have a W bend in it and the geometry will be based on the ends it pivots on. That line James has drawn is the angle that counts, despite the fact that it is bent. That line looks pretty parralell to your trac bar to me. Might be a different length though.

ID is right on...
It is close, but not dead on. Having the draglink at the same angle as the tracbar is more critical than having them the same length (or close to the same length). Yes, lD50 is right... but the draglink/trac bar angle is what causes the most bumpsteer.
 




ld50

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My steering sways from 11 o'clock to 1 o'clock when driving. Is this normal for a solid axle?

I would think not. I`m just working out my steering for solid axle now, and I`m taking my time to ensure both the lengths and angles are as close as I can get them, since both can be a problem if out. -so I can`t tell you how mine feels yet.
 




sn0border88

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mine does, terrible bumpsteer. But I can still manage. Going histeer "should" fix it
 








Mud Bug 94

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all you need to do is figure out which way it steers when you hit a bump... (most likey to the right) and right befor you hit a big bump jerk the wheel hard to the left to compensate...lol
 




colindo94

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ohe boy- I'm in the process of starting my SAS and I was wondering what bracket you used for the trackbar and what you used for steering linkage? Forgive me if you already said what you used, but i'm pretty sure you have not.
 




ohe_boy

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It is close, but not dead on. Having the draglink at the same angle as the tracbar is more critical than having them the same length (or close to the same length). Yes, lD50 is right... but the draglink/trac bar angle is what causes the most bumpsteer.

james t - as I was looking at my steering linkage, I noticed that the bend in the drag link should normally be at the top by the pitman arm. I flipped the drag link and now the angle is JUST about parallel to each other. By flipping it around and setting the bend in its natural position, this makes the bend pointing foward instead of pointing downward. WIth the red line you had drawn out in the earlier post, this makes the draglink in that same line.

Steering has improved but the bumpsteer is still there. Just not as much. Maybe I need 4 stablizers instead of just two!
 




ohe_boy

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I would think not. I`m just working out my steering for solid axle now, and I`m taking my time to ensure both the lengths and angles are as close as I can get them, since both can be a problem if out. -so I can`t tell you how mine feels yet.

I am also thinking that I shouldn't have that much play in the steering but let me know when/if you find out something!
 




ohe_boy

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mine does, terrible bumpsteer. But I can still manage. Going histeer "should" fix it

Yah its manageable,...just gotta keep a firm grip on the wheel!!!! Wish theres something to improve this!!!
 








ohe_boy

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Mine does not. I have "normal" play in the steering.

What is considered "normal" play? When I drive my wife's saturn (car) the steering wheel barely moves at all when trying to keep the vehicle straight. My hand just remains at 12 o'clock position and its all good. My X, inorder to keep that baby straight requires movement from 11 to 1. WTF??
 




ohe_boy

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all you need to do is figure out which way it steers when you hit a bump... (most likey to the right) and right befor you hit a big bump jerk the wheel hard to the left to compensate...lol

Ey don't laugh out loud.......







I really do that!!!! hahahahahaha
 




Burns

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What is considered "normal" play? When I drive my wife's saturn (car) the steering wheel barely moves at all when trying to keep the vehicle straight. My hand just remains at 12 o'clock position and its all good. My X, inorder to keep that baby straight requires movement from 11 to 1. WTF??

I have that play. I have been trying to get it tighter for a while. I dont think its in the axle but from steering box up.
 




ohe_boy

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ohe boy- I'm in the process of starting my SAS and I was wondering what bracket you used for the trackbar and what you used for steering linkage? Forgive me if you already said what you used, but i'm pretty sure you have not.

track bar bracket is from the broncograveyard website for full size broncos! I just welded it to the frame and coil bucket. I have brought this up in the beginning of this thread and I think theres pictures of it on the second or third page of this thread.

The steering linkage - pitman arm superlifts; draglink stock explorer bought new one from explorer express; tie rod - stock bronco from broncograveyard

hope this helps good luck with your SAS
 




ohe_boy

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Man im trying to think of what could be causing this. I dont have any at all. Like Colin i have regular steering play but thats it.

could it be my steering box is shot to hell??? :salute:
 




ohe_boy

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I have that play. I have been trying to get it tighter for a while. I dont think its in the axle but from steering box up.

^^^^^^ refer to previous post
 






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