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2002 Sport Trac SAS

2002 Explorer Sport Trac

Engine:
Stock 4.0
Taylor 8.8 MM Plug wires
Screamin Demon Coil
XCAL2 Tuned
Zabtek Cold Air intake
Random Tech "Y" pipe with custom FLowmaster exhaust. A few cats have been removed.

Transmission:
5R55E freshly rebuilt
1354 Borg Warner Electric Shift
Modified Superlift front driveshaft
Stock rear driveshaft

Front Axle:
89 Jeep Grand Wagoneer Dana 44 low pinion
ARB Air Locker
4:56 Ring & Pinion
Superior Chromo Axles
CTM U-joints
Steel braided 28” brakelines
Warn manual locking hubs
Parts Mike Highsteer arms with 1" spacers
Parts Mime highsterr knuckles
5/5.5 conversion kit

Rear Axle:
Explorer 8.8 31 spline
PowerTrax Locker
4:56 Ring & Pinion
SOA conversion
Wheel spacer/adapter for 5/5.5 bolt pattern

Suspension:
BDS front shocks
Rancho RS5000 rear shocks stock height
Custom made 7 pack Waggy leafs up front
Stock leafs out back

Tires and Rims:
35x17x12.5 BFG KM2
Eagle Alloys model 951 17x9


Body Mods:
3" Body lift (may come out soon to allow for more suspension lift)
Clear corner lens
Sylvania Silverstar 9007 headlight bulbs
Sylvania Silverstar 9005 foglight bulbs


Sound System:
Kenwood head unit
(4) 6x9 Ifiniti speakers
(2) 8” Kicker Subs in a custom figerglass enclosure behind the rear seats
Alpine 4 channel Amplifier
Cobra 75WXST CB

Here is my build thread, I will apologize now for the stupid questions you will read from me..

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=237526


There are a bunch of interior mods i did but this a SAS registry..

First was the install of the crossmember:
SASpics024.jpg


Then followed alot of cutting and grinding to get here, where the rear leaf mounts were installed:
SAS_001.jpg


Then a little more progress:
SAS_005.jpg


Steering was a PITA. Here is my Gen1 and Gen2 Hybris steering linkage:
SAS_036.jpg


Here is the Rack and Pinion steering cooler re-used and mounted to my crossmember:
SAS_009.jpg


More progress:
SAS_044.jpg


SAS_045.jpg


All this work to get here:

Picture059.jpg


Picture062.jpg


Picture063.jpg


Picture079.jpg


Picture052.jpg


100_1992.jpg


100_3485.jpg


100_1993.jpg
 



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Hey Chad, where'd you get the quick disconnects for your Trac? Also can you spost some links for 3 link setups so I can start studying up on those? Thanks man.
 






Gotta chance to pick up a piar of DANA 44's for my Trac to do the SAS, curious if they would by too wide. I live in Pittsburgh, Pa. and their kinda strick on tires theat stick out past the fenders to much, I see yours don't stick out. The front is from a '70s jeep Waggy and comes with new in package Warn hubs, the rear is from a '98 Rodeo, both have everything on them same bolt pattern and the guys asking $500. Good deal, too wide for my application since I don't want them sticking out too far? Sorry for all the questions but new to do this to a newer vehicle, I'm used to fullsize trucks with straight axles not putting them uder a midsize truck.
 






Well, missed out on the DANA 44's, guy sold them to someone else first. Oh well, not ready to build yet but was gonna maybe start collecting parts.
 






The quick disconnects for the rear sway bar, were just pins for a trailer hitch with a washer welded on oneside. I dont have any websites for a 3 link build, I just do a search on yahoo or google. I have determined that i will be rebuilding mine using the info posted on page 5 or 6 of my build thread that rock ranger posted. Take a look at this thread http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=302332 this is how I am going to build my new suspension.

I think it is a good idea to start buying your parts now for your swap as long as you know you are doing it. That is how I did mine, I would look at Pirate and here on the swap and sell boards to find parts. I think I paid 200.00 for my high steer knuckles with the high steer arms, studs and ball joints from pirate, guy was desperate to sell. I got my entire front disk conversion from a guy on ebay who sells them, that was also pretty cheap to.

Also you dont need a rear Dana44 axle. From what I have read, I believe the 8.8 is stronger, and all you need is wheel adapters to change to a 5x5.5 lug pattern, this is what I did.

Also here some info on Waggy axles:
When choosing one of these axles, it needs to be from a 1980-1981 or 1985-1992 Wagoneer. 1979 and earlier had the differential on the passenger side. 1982-1984 had a problematic vacuum disconnect that was built into the differential for the two piece long side shaft and should be avoided
 






Thanks Chad for the help. I'm used to working on and with fullsizes and their suspension so alot of this midsize fabrication and matching parts, etc. is new to me. I do miss my old '79 Scout II, that was a freakin beast.
 






























Hi Chad. I am a newcomer to the forum as you can see. Post number 1!! I have an 02 ST with superlift kit, BL, TT, and shackles on 36x15.50x18s with 1.5" wheel spacers. (I know, I went overboard with the tires). It has been setup this way for about 5 years now. It's really only gets driven on the weekends and mostly highway use, with the occasional light offroading. I have put about 20,000 miles on it with this setup and with the IFS, have gone through numerous UCA's and lower ball joists. So, I am seriously considering doing the SAS swap.

Now to my questions, finally :) I have been reading through the forums all weekend and I feel your truck and situation most resemble mine. Now that you have had the SAS for a couple years now, are you glad you went this route? Are there any decisions you would make differently now? coils rather than leafs?

Also, do you think someone with my experience level is out of their mind to try and tackle a project like this. I have moderate mechanical knowledge. I have done all of the previous work to my truck myself. I have a buddy who is a welder to assist me with those portions of the project. But I have no real experience with steering geometry, and to be honest that is the part of the project that scares me the most. Any thoughts?

Thanks for help to a newbie on the forum. I hope to be participating more in the future. (Especially if I actually decide to go through with the SAS)

Oh, and by the way, AWESOME TRUCK, I guess I should have mentioned that first :)
 






I have been very happy with the SAS. I would like to change to a linked setup up front only so it would flex alot more. But mine does flex enough for what I do with it. My main reason for the SAS was to actually save some money. I was going through a set of 35"s tires every year because the IFS would not stay aligned. Plus I wanted more security when driving to Moab from St.Louis to go rock crawling and then drive it back home.

I actually found a couple mistakes I made this weekend (that I will not share due to embarassment) when measuring for a possible linked setup. So with my newly found mistake I am going to fix that first and see what happens. As for the mechanical knowledge i have never done this before, until I did mine. There is alot of info on this site, and a whole bunch of very helpful guys. I would have to say the hardest part for me was mounting the new steering box and fabbing the brackets for it, then next would be cleaning the frame. This was only made difficult because I did the entire project by myself, with an occasional helping hand stopping by every once in a while to see my progress, and drink my beer. The steering is very mportant but it is not that hard once you see how it goes together.

I would start by planning it out first. If you decide to do the SAS, then start getting your parts first and have the axle completely built and ready to install before you start. I had everything I needed except wheels and tires before I started. And added some items as it progressed.
 






I actually found a couple mistakes I made this weekend (that I will not share due to embarassment) when measuring for a possible linked setup. So with my newly found mistake I am going to fix that first and see what happens.

I can totally understand that, but sharing your mistakes might help keep others from doing the same. We've all made mistakes, trust me.
 






Basically it appears my drivers side shackle mount is not straight, and is not centered correctly with the axle leaf mounts. So I have a drivers side leaf spring in a bind.

So my project for the weekend is going to involve dropping the axle, cuting off the front and rear leaf spring mounts, building new mounts, triple check measurements for proper axle placement, and then re-installing the axle. I also made some new shackles that are about 2" longer and those may get installed after I check the height of the truck, with my new tires.
 






Hmm, u know this thing would look mean with some 37s LOL is it to late!!???
 






My new 35's are being delivered tommorow. 37's would look nice, but I would need new gears. And 37" tires for a 17" rim are high $$$$$$$$$$$$. Got a great deal on my new tires though.
 






"Measure twice, cut and weld once". All great in theory but as we all know it's always a learning process and once a project, always a project. lol. Thanks for sharing the info. Chad, which setup do you think would be better for me whe I do mine? leaf or link? It'll be a daily driver like yours, mainly driven on the city streets and highways in Pittsburgh (mainly hilly and curvy roads) As much as I want to do a link setup I'm think the leafspring setup would be safer for the roads around here. I don't drive like a mad man but since my wife and I are expecting our first child in October I geuss I need to look into safety and stability even more now.
 






Thanks for the info Chad. A few more questions, if you don't mind :) I read above where you recommended the dana 44 axles out of a 80-81 or 85-92 wagoneer. I assume this is because of their length and because the pumpkin is on the driver's side? Are there other reasons that make this a prime donor? Are there other years and models that I should keep my eyes open for, or is the wagoneer really my best/only option. I want to keep the length as close to original as possible. (Not going for the full size axle look.)

Also, I read where you had asked about the ABS, but I don;t recall you getting an answer. What did you do about your ABS?

I hope this question doesn't show my complete ignorance, but here goes. So you now have manual hubs? You have to get out of the truck and lock the hubs at the wheels (old school style)? But still use the stock electronic "dial" on the dash to engage the transfer case? And then you have installed two switches to engage the front and rear ARB lockers? ....Wait, I just went back and looked at your pics, and you have center caps on your front wheels. So the hubs stay engaged all the time, rotating the axles, front-rear, and front drive shaft all the time? OK, now I'm confused. I guess I did manage to show my ignorance :)
 



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mjenk430, trust me their are never any dumb questions asked, it's really only ignorance if you don't ask them and then make mistakes because of it. Most members here had to start somewhere, so you're fine.
 






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