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5.0 2to4wd 4406 and tons




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99-01 explorer 5.0
Lower radiator hose will fit they did not have a cooler

You can also relocate the filter, I like to put it in the path of the cooling fan air

Gives a Little extra capacity and ports for a gauge, cooler, more filters…
 






Why are there 4 O2 sensors?

I’m about to rebuild the crossmember, and with some 1-1/2” tube and bushings make the stock one but upside down. The exhaust will be right in the way, so I’m gonna get around to making my own. No cats, tubes tight up high, might even go side pipes idk yet. But I will be running O2 sensors obviously, just trying to understand why there are 2 after the pre-cats? Do I NEED them? Do I NEED them to keep the CEL off?

Also what is the stock size off the manifold? 2-1/2”? Those flair couplings don’t seem to come in 2-1/4.
 






2 upstream sensors 1 for bank 1 and one for bank 2


Then there are two “catalyst monitors” one in each bank after the primary converters
 






The rear o2 sensors need to be in place to keep the PCM happy. I removed them on my 5.0 project that has the 1999 Crown Vic PCM, but they can be tuned out. I'll be using a 1999 Explorer 5.0 PCM for my third engine. I'm keeping them in place behind where the converters used to be to keep that PCM happy. I don't have access to tunable bin files for the Explorers. I'm not sure if anyone here has one either. PontiSteve in Ocala FL might can tune them out for you, if necessary, but it is probably at least $300.
Steve at Drag Radial Performance
pontisteve@earthlink.net
 






The rear o2 sensors need to be in place to keep the PCM happy. I removed them on my 5.0 project that has the 1999 Crown Vic PCM, but they can be tuned out. I'll be using a 1999 Explorer 5.0 PCM for my second engine. I'm keeping them in place behind where the converters used to be to keep that PCM happy. I don't have access to tunable bin files for the Explorers. I'm not sure if anyone here has one either. PontiSteve in Ocala FL might can tune them out for you, if necessary, but it is probably at least $300.
Steve at Drag Radial Performance
pontisteve@earthlink.net
Spark plug anti foulers cost a few $ and work just as well for those rear sensors
 






Since your second engine you are talking about is for a 1954 F100 project, an anti fouler raises the downstream sensor to give it a false good reading. This is something you shouldn't do if you have emissions.
 






The rear o2 sensors need to be in place to keep the PCM happy. I removed them on my 5.0 project that has the 1999 Crown Vic PCM, but they can be tuned out. I'll be using a 1999 Explorer 5.0 PCM for my second engine. I'm keeping them in place behind where the converters used to be to keep that PCM happy. I don't have access to tunable bin files for the Explorers. I'm not sure if anyone here has one either. PontiSteve in Ocala FL might can tune them out for you, if necessary, but it is probably at least $300.
Steve at Drag Radial Performance
pontisteve@earthlink.net
So if I plumb all 4 back in, but no cats, I’m still going to get a CEL?
 






I personally haven't gotten that far to be able to say. Did @Josh P send you a DM with the video that he sent to me?
 






I have empty converters in my bronco ii and about once a year I get a catalyst efficiency code,
I clear it and a year later it comes back

I believe my 02 sensors are just worn out they have 150+ miles on by now them i am sure

My bronco ii uses a factory 97 pcm and the computer is 100% happy.
I only have primary converters in my exhaust and the catalyst “fell out” of those a few years ago
 












update pics

Where the oil filters is

Where the front drive shaft wants to be, and the clearance I will have after I cut out the factory stuff. That’s before I fit it up.

Crossmember tacked together. Still gotta finish weld it and take it for a drive before I decide to cut the factory stuff out.

For the exhaust I want to basically copy the stock but tighter to the pan, probably wrap it all, maybe a heat shield under the pan also. Bring it around under this new crossmember and maybe utilize the factory hanger off the trans mount because those bolts are accessible now. I wouldn’t have to remove the crossmember to remove the exhaust. Also build it so it’s easy to get out.

It’s running terrible atm and I think it’s because it’s lost all the fuel mapping from being disconnected from the battery so long and I don’t think any of the o2 sensors work. So I’ll replace them all and see what happens

IMG_0878.jpeg


IMG_0885.jpeg


IMG_0888.jpeg
 






I think for right now I’m about to use a hammer and adjust these stock pre-cat sections of exhaust tube to fit so I can drive. I’ll have some O2 sensors here tomorrow so it can start learning again.

I’m thinking I’ll just break down and order the torque monster headers and do more research on how to get the sound I’m looking for. I would like it to sound more like the classic fox body sound, it currently sounds like a boat. Larger diameter tubes? Resonator? Maybe 2.5” all the way back, dual glass packs, and maybe figure out a rear fender well exit. Side pipes would probably be ideal, but the driver side will get right in the way of the parking brake cable and both sides will probably interfere with the mild boat sides I have planned.

Any ideas on good sound? I will be putting an engine in this eventually with a different cam, but for now what will make the explorer stock stuff sound good?

IMG_0910.jpeg
 






I'm still not totally thrilled with the sound of mine either, but it got a lot better when I added resonators. I have TMHs to factory downpipes to an H crossover. Initially I went straight into glass packs after the crossover, but it sounded pretty trashy. Resonators ahead of the mufflers cleaned up the sound quite a bit.
 






You for sure want the factory exhaust hangers at the trans mount, without that support in place (or something like it) the manifolds like to loosen up

Nice work this far! Tons of room for improvement from the factory pipes, they hang so low and the cats are right under and next to the converter and trans…. Silly ford
 






You for sure want the factory exhaust hangers at the trans mount, without that support in place (or something like it) the manifolds like to loosen up

Nice work this far! Tons of room for improvement from the factory pipes, they hang so low and the cats are right under and next to the converter and trans…. Silly ford
I think I’m going to add a hanger off the frame for the down pipes. I’m about to get out there this morning and cobble together some scrap to make it work. I started by gutting a cat but then figured out the bodies are in the way for what I’m trying to do, so they are getting deleted.
As for legality, I live in FL, and while there are some laws regarding modifications, they are very limited. You can kinda just do what you want. Legally I have to have a “muffler” and can’t exceed a certain decibel level within city limits. That’s really it for exhaust.
Only reason I want to keep the cel off is because it kinda nice to know when a different code pops up. So I’ve garbed a pair of those spark plug things.
 






Here’s how that ended up. Not bad for a free solution for now.
Definitely rebuilding this. I think the plan will be 2-1/4 back to a 3” singe exit muffler and dump that somewhere. Swap out these flange connections for v-band camps.
O2 sensors just showed up, so I’m about to get those installed and hook up the newly acquired scan tool to see if I can clear any fuel mapping and make this thing run well again. Or maybe figure out why it isn’t.

IMG_0929.jpeg


IMG_0931.jpeg
 



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Looks like it'll work! I'm sure your custom downpipe provides much better ground clearance compared to the stock one -- that cat hangs too low for my taste.

I know it was mentioned, but make sure you're final design includes hangers on the downpipes at the trans mount. If the ball flanges loosen up and start leaking at the manifolds, your O2 readings will be off and it may run richer than the PCM thinks it is.
 






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