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5.0 2to4wd 4406 and tons

Whalp, seems to run better, and sounds meh ok.

I’ve never used a legit scan tool before, so basically no clue what I’m doing. All the tests I ran seemed to fail. Ran an idle test and it died during the test and the scanner didn’t seem to realize it. So my plan is to keep the battery connected and a solar panel on that just to make sure it doesn’t drain. I’ll try to drive it every day to get some codes to save. Seems to run fine while driving, just surges at idle, like an IAC problem.

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So much room to work with the engine cradle Mia!!
 






Whalp got my speedo adjusted thanks to @410Fortune Just about dead on. Threw some insurance on it and drove around a bit. Cruises like a Cadillac other than large bumps the wheel jerks around, but it tracks straight.

I have some fabric to recover this headliner, and was about to pull all the plastic today, which got me wondering. Did any of the second gen’s have a dome light where I cut that hole above the front seats? Or even better, did any have built in speaker pods? If not I may be trying to modify this one to fit some stuff like that. Trying to come up with a way to make almost recessed lighting so it lights up the whole headliner and I can make the whole cabin light up. Not sure how I would do that without making it look silly.

Anyhoo, who knows about headliner interchangeability?

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Excellent news about the speedo
Nice to be in control of it

Headliner you have all the holes you can get
Rear cargo light, middle row light and front overhead console
Only changes are color and sunroof or no
96-01 sploder or mountaineer

For Lighting up the interior consider flexible led strips you can glue on down the sides
I’ve used them
Many times for interior lighting in campers can do some Cool things and hide them so they make a backlight effect
You can literally trim to fit
 






Yo what in the world did they make these head liner cards out of? Thing started falling apart just looking at it wrong.
I’m starting this by reinforcing the back, used a whole small can of resin and it didn’t even cover the whole thing. Soaks it up like a sponge.
Also got this conversion fitting from Lee’s power steering. Steel fitting, machined aluminum crush washer. That should fix my weeping problem I bet.

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I wish those headliner boards were the old hard board type. Kind of like beaver board or Masonite. It looks like the fiberglass resin may be working though. Is it bleeding through to the side that the foam back fabric glues to?
 






I wish those headliner boards were the old hard board type. Kind of like beaver board or Masonite. It looks like the fiberglass resin may be working though. Is it bleeding through to the side that the foam back fabric glues to?
I'll have to Google what beaver board is. First thought was a chrome glove box door, close in name.
 






I wish those headliner boards were the old hard board type. Kind of like beaver board or Masonite. It looks like the fiberglass resin may be working though. Is it bleeding through to the side that the foam back fabric glues to?
I mean no, it’s definitely fiberglass because it itches like it, but it’s about 100 layers that are not plyed together. It’s like they tried to make sound killer mat and a headliner card in one thing. I’m not impressed, Chevrolet wins on mid 90s with this one for sure.
 






I mean no, it’s definitely fiberglass because it itches like it, but it’s about 100 layers that are not plyed together. It’s like they tried to make sound killer mat and a headliner card in one thing. I’m not impressed, Chevrolet wins on mid 90s with this one for sure.
That fiber board still beats the 80s foam boards.
 






Original beaver board as we know it, may be extinct. @Josh P Beaver board.
Being that the headliner is made from fiberglass, the resin with hardener seems to work well with it even though it is soaking it up like a sponge.
Was that a quart kit that you started with? I could imagine that it could take a half to a gallon for that much area. The weight of the resin/hardener will add to the weight of the whole assembly. You may need a helper to guide the board back in and help you hold it up as you get some key points reattached, side trim etc.
 






I think when I put it all back together I’m going to replace all the plastic pins with nutcerts, and add some. So all the round pins will be M6 ish and I’m even thinking of cutting out flat tabs on the plastic trim and doing the same there. Probably going to be making a roll cage at some point so I’ll have to take this all back apart again lol
 






Whalp, ended up using a WHOLE large can on the show side and it didn’t cover the whole thing. So I’ll be getting more tomorrow and a little more glass to keep this thing sturdy and have a solid surface to glue to.
Collecting exhaust parts, got the 2-1/2 to single 3” muffler in today. I must have had a few too many wobble pops when I ordered this, could have sworn it said flow master 😂. Anyway, I’m having trouble finding the 2-1/4 to 2-1/2 ball collector coupling things that attach to the manifolds. Anyone know where I can find that?

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I’ve used flow Monster before because it is reversible

Same exact muffler it works really well and is cheap

I usually use the first 6-12”
Of the factory downpipe
To start the exhaust
Those 2-1/4”
Collectors seems hard to get
 






Got this headliner recovered but it can’t go back in because I’m waiting on some killmat to show up first. Having a hell of a time determining which holes to add nutcerts to so I can put this back up with bolts.
Not sure if this dome light worked or not, but looking at it I don’t see how that would make a connection to anything. Is something missing there?

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Love the stripes!!

The dome lamps
Make connections through their
Screws ;)
 






I like the plaid. I had some gray with blue stripes picked out but now can't find it.
Maybe the nutserts could be in different places than the buttons holes for the trim. Use small bolts and washers through your fiberglass headliner to hold it up then finish with the trim and their buttons?
 






Got this visor opened up most of the way. I did break the pin on the secondary one while removing from the rig, but I think it will go back together. How in the world do you get this pin out?

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Ya boi got a front driveshaft!

NOW I understand what y’all were talking about with the 4406 being difficult to get out of 4lo sometimes. I guess when there is no driveshaft it will just change gears easy but when it’s there it need to disengage or something.
Question: I have to do a lot of fiddling to get it to go from 4hi to 2hi. Is that normal? Now I’ve only tested it in the air, just kinda started the break in on the front gears. But in the air, to get it out of 4hi I have to switch to park and neutral and back, or some combination like that. Maybe it will pop out easier when it’s actually on the ground? I did notice if I just go to park and disengage the hubs it will go straight to 2hi no problem.
Now that I see how easy it is to drop in 4hi I think I will make that indicator work. I’ll have to buy a new sensor and look up where to wire that in. If someone has a link for that I would appreciate it.

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I followed this thread to get my dash lights working with the 4406 and it worked perfectly:
You probably don't need a new switch on the trans, it's a pretty simple piece. Just pull it out and clean it and it'll likely work fine.

My 4406 is not difficult to get into 2hi. It's actually so easy that if I try to go from 4lo to 4hi, I almost always end up in 2hi then have to pull back into 4hi. But I'm also running an M5R2, maybe everything behaves differently behind an automatic. I'm sure others will chime in.
 



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