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Donate to Save Dannyboy's life...cage time
- Thread starter Dannyboy
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I don't know if it was mentioned before but is a custom dash going in or is it just being modified to fit the cage?Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
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custom dash. I want to keep it plain and simple for several reasons,
What I was thinking was a tube frame dash with tabs.
break aluminum just the right length and size and bolt it into place. Very sturdy and easy to remove a piece to access installation of gauges, access fuses, etc.
Probably going to only have maybe 1 vent if any on the heater, mainly just for defrosting capability.
What I was thinking was a tube frame dash with tabs.
break aluminum just the right length and size and bolt it into place. Very sturdy and easy to remove a piece to access installation of gauges, access fuses, etc.
Probably going to only have maybe 1 vent if any on the heater, mainly just for defrosting capability.
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DB_1
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Somewhere in the desert racing forum on Pirate i saw a truck where Dzus fasteners were used on the front panel of a dash console. Looked real clean, simple and easily removeable.
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Not much to show on progress. I got fitted for the seats tonight. All 4 buckets are going to fit!!! It wasnt looking good, but I bought 4 to pretty much make John make it work. I knew he could do it.
Also got 4 of the 6 points of tying to the frame in.
Also mocked up where the shocks are going to go. The mount will be on the truss in the rear, my 9" is trussed top and rear so the tab will gusset in nicely.
And the tube shows how high into the cage they will come.
I wish they could be further out (Like I've seen on Jeepspeed XJs) but that's one of the issues of owning a truck with a frame.
Also got 4 of the 6 points of tying to the frame in.
Also mocked up where the shocks are going to go. The mount will be on the truss in the rear, my 9" is trussed top and rear so the tab will gusset in nicely.
And the tube shows how high into the cage they will come.
I wish they could be further out (Like I've seen on Jeepspeed XJs) but that's one of the issues of owning a truck with a frame.
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Lilmule
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You also might think about making the 9" into a full floater. That way if you break an axle, you're still good to go.
What size tire are you moking with??
Will a 35" on a 7" rim stroke?? Full bump to full droop?
What size tire are you moking with??
Will a 35" on a 7" rim stroke?? Full bump to full droop?
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You mean the trailing arms of the two link? No room, plus I rub tires on the inside of the fenderwell if I flex on a rock (angled) vs straight up and down. I cant run this large of a shock outbound of the frame rail. They're like 8" wide piggyback style.
If only I found the same deal on res vs piggyback. I wouldn't need such a big hole in the floor.
Good to see you around Joe. I hope I'm doing this up to your satisfaction for the truck.
Also looks like I'm going to truss up the front axle. It's leaking pretty bad at the diff so I'm going to break it down, clean it up, inspect for any bends, sand, paint, add "Winter's" little tricks and double check bump and droop to see if the limit straps are still correct and put 2 new shocks up front. I'm really liking the performance of some Donahoe Racing (probably a bilstein with their sticker) that I put on my Superduty.
I learned how to use a safety wire tool now as well!
If only I found the same deal on res vs piggyback. I wouldn't need such a big hole in the floor.
Good to see you around Joe. I hope I'm doing this up to your satisfaction for the truck.
Also looks like I'm going to truss up the front axle. It's leaking pretty bad at the diff so I'm going to break it down, clean it up, inspect for any bends, sand, paint, add "Winter's" little tricks and double check bump and droop to see if the limit straps are still correct and put 2 new shocks up front. I'm really liking the performance of some Donahoe Racing (probably a bilstein with their sticker) that I put on my Superduty.
I learned how to use a safety wire tool now as well!
Lilmule
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No, it's got a trailing arm on top of the axle to the outside of the frame rail. I'm not totally sure what it does but it probably saved my life or at least a little less damage when my u-bolts snapped at truckhaven last year when we were bombing down a wash.
Joe can you help me here? helps axle wrap maybe?
You can see it on the pic of the axle.
Joe can you help me here? helps axle wrap maybe?
You can see it on the pic of the axle.
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Oh, missed that...i saw the tabs for them but didn't notice the actual arm. 
I have those too, i think they act as traction bars for axle wrap.
I have those too, i think they act as traction bars for axle wrap.
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And Joe, while I've got your attention,
I can still fit a 20 gallon fuel cell UNDER the floor in the rear, not coming into the cargo area at all. IF I were to do that, I then could mount the shocks more on the top/front of the axle. They would stick up higher in the cargo area, but be more flush with the back seats.
I haven't done all my homework on why I really want this other than
1) racing would require a cell
2) It would shift that weight to the rear.
I don't know about
1) would the neck stll come into the cargo area still making me need a full bulkhead?
2) How/where I would run my fuel lines.
I think I want to save that project for later.
Whats 2 more holes in the floor.
I can still fit a 20 gallon fuel cell UNDER the floor in the rear, not coming into the cargo area at all. IF I were to do that, I then could mount the shocks more on the top/front of the axle. They would stick up higher in the cargo area, but be more flush with the back seats.
I haven't done all my homework on why I really want this other than
1) racing would require a cell
2) It would shift that weight to the rear.
I don't know about
1) would the neck stll come into the cargo area still making me need a full bulkhead?
2) How/where I would run my fuel lines.
I think I want to save that project for later.
Whats 2 more holes in the floor.
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But then wouldn't you need to relocate the shocks, which would need some reworking of the cage? Why dont you want to get it all done at once?
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Technically there is still room for the shocks like this. Cargo area wil be seperated with the shocks in the center. If wanted to get them on top of the axle (for no real reason other than getting the shocks a little higher up and towards the front of the cargo area, a smaller hole with the chance that I wouldn't need quite such a big hole in the floor.
The way it sits the body of the shock, 1 of the bypasses and maybe the bottom part of the resivoir may go into the floor.
This way I will have enough room between the shocks and rear seats that I could likely strap a cooler in that space.
ALSO, the seats are probably a good 3-4" wider than stock buckets. I'm glad I didn't go with the wider based seat. Lucky for me I'm a fit and trim lad.
The way it sits the body of the shock, 1 of the bypasses and maybe the bottom part of the resivoir may go into the floor.
This way I will have enough room between the shocks and rear seats that I could likely strap a cooler in that space.
ALSO, the seats are probably a good 3-4" wider than stock buckets. I'm glad I didn't go with the wider based seat. Lucky for me I'm a fit and trim lad.
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