Ran out and got the better socket with a collar, and put it back together. Took me a couple trys to get it right.
The National rotor seal wasn't fitting right, and was squeaking on rotation, and made the assembly to tight. Tore it all down, and swapped it for an SKF brand from Napa. That fixed it.
I did do it a little different this time. After the last days worth of posts, I said ok, let's change it up, and see what happens.
I set the bearings with the inner nut to 35 ft/lbs like normal, spun the rotor a few times, backed it off, and again with 35 ft/lbs, spun the rotor again, and backed it off to finger tight. Then set the inner nut to 16 In/lbs, and backed it off a little.
150 ft/lbs with my torque wrench, and watched the inner nut to make sure it didn't spin at all. Then used the impact on it, set it to what I believe to be around 225#, and tapped the trigger a few times. It moved it just barely. Grabbed the rotor, and it spun with a decent amount of resistance. Not too much, not too little. Hoping it is good to go for a while again. Checked Pass side, and all was good. Done deal.
Here is the 2 styles of sockets we have been mentioning. The left socket is the type that hurts me every time when it slips off. The right socket has the collar, and stays on better, but still likes to walk off if your not dead nuts even when working the wrench. Still have to hold your hand on it. Stil sucks, but is better than the other tab style.
And for record keeping with the posts date stamp, the new stuffs installed on the Dr side.
That pic was after the first try, before I took it apart again, and was cleaned with brake cleaner after.
