The Black Hole

[CDW6212R]

I'm sorry to hear that, I wish we could help.

Do you have any relative that works for a health care business? Here we have an orthopedic chain that provides many free services for their employees and relatives. I know an MRI is expensive, the last one I had was about 12 years ago, and it was billed at $700 each, that insurance would allow(less than the retail). My sister works for KOC so I had the MRI done with them, I requested that from my doctor knowing it would not cost me there. An MRI gives far greater detail than any X-rays, they are very good if you can get them done. Best of luck there my friend.



The 10R80 trans and the 6R80 are both excellent units, very strong, and so far reliable. I like the better knowledge there is about the six speed so far versus the 10R, and six speeds is plenty for me(the 1st gear is a 4.17:1 ratio). I'm going to swap a 6R80 into my 98 Explorer project, behind the SBF. It's much more expensive than a 4R70W, figure at least $2k to $3k extra depending on if it's bought complete from a trans business, or not. Controlling it requires either a factory PCM, or the $1300+ Quick Shift 6 controller. I'm planning to use a 2014 Mustang 5.0 PCM, I already bought that used(37k miles). That way requires custom tuning by someone capable, I think I trust I found someone.

But the 6R or 10R swap, note that it has a different rear housing bolt pattern, for the transfer case. So if interested, you either have to use a late model TC(all are electronic A4WD), or be fabricating a trans extension like the 4R70W version, to mate with the trans and a BW4406 or similar with the 6-bolt pattern.

 

[joney]

I'm sure both of those items would help greatly. Problem is I just don't have it in me to mess with anything right now. I got the busted Mirror swapped out, and made room in the 1st gen to haul a door and rear cargo glass over a month ago. I haven't even had the energy to go to the salvage yard to get the parts to install. I can't even think of mods like that currently. Used to take me 1.5 hrs to mow my yard with a walk behind, now it takes me 3 days, as I can only do it in sections at a time.

As far as how I have been.....the above should give you a hint, and to make this Long story longer...

2 weeks ago, my heart Doc wanted to go back in and check things out with a scope after seeing me. I asked why, and he said it was the best way to see whats wrong with me. I had to flat out refuse him. I said figure out a different way. I had multiple chest Xrays, and a bunch of lab work done a couple times now. Said the results are so so, and now wants me to go get a $4k MRI. I haven't made the appointment yet. Monday July the 10th, was my 1 year anniverssary of the attack, and it's been a roller coaster. All extras in life are still on pause.

Sorry to hear of your difficulties! Hard to be patient with health, especially a lack of energy. Hoping things get better for you soon!

 

[gmanpaint]

I sure don't Don.

Thanks Joney!

The newer trans sounds great on paper, but I already know the headaches involved with new mods like this, and the time & costs to takes for a healthy person to take on. Trans sounds like a $4-5k project, and I priced the install kit on a supercharger at over $2k, then I have to fabricate a ton to make it work, and a few more grand for the unit, and odds n ends for it. 1, maybe 2 years of work, dealing with bugs, and tuning.

I would honestly stick to my original plan, and get a crate motor, and drop it in. Beef up the Trans, go to 4:88 gears, and maybe even swap the Atlas II- 4.3, for the Atlas IV-5.0 for fun. Be about the same cost, less headaches, and all the power I need for the purpose.

Or I might just put everything up for sale, buy a Raptor, and call it a day.

 

[Rick]

Monday July the 10th, was my 1 year anniverssary of the attack, and it's been a roller coaster. All extras in life are still on pause.

I sure hope you start feeling much better soon.

The idea of the 10R80 swap intrigued me. I know it's not in the cards right now, but I did find this:

 

[Turdle]

Wish you better health. I need to try to get over there to help hang those things.

 

[gmanpaint]

Thanks Guys! Appreciate the support.

I was sitting here the other day with @reapereviltwin talking rigs at my dining table, and the words that came out of my mouth, was none I have ever spoke to someone. I mentioned hanging this all up, because of the physical aspect of it. I am not the same person I was a year ago, and as my build threads show, I am used to putting in the work. Not today. Hopefully that changes.

 

[Rick]

Living in the outskirts of Sun City West which is a 55+ retirement community I have a lot of experience dealing with folks who have been through similar circumstances. My suggestion is to give it more time before making a big decision about your rig and your future. I know several people who just kept getting stronger after their heart attack and bypasses. For some they feel better right away, but for others it took more time and Physical Therapy before they regain their strength and abilities.

 

[gmanpaint]

I haven't decided on anything just yet, other than maybe finally saying goodbye to Pugly, and getting something newer with working A/C.

PT is way too expensive here for me ($350/visit 2X/wk), and I turned it down as well. I have done enough of it in my life that I can handle it alone.

I still have brand new parts in boxes just sitting here, waiting to be installed. Maybe I should try that for PT.

 

[Rick]

OMG to the cost of PT. That's just unreal.

How about YouTube? They have videos for doing just about anything on your own.

 

[gmanpaint]

Welp. The summer has passed me by as I dealt with life's curve balls thrown at me. I just now got the replacement rear 1/4 glass from a salvage yard.

Haven't got the doors or front fender yet. I spent yesterday working on the work rig, so today I am going to attempt to do this window by myself, and hopefully not drop it in the process. Not having someone to help guide it in place from the outside, and get a couple of the nuts on the studs while holding it in place, has been bugging me. I think I will try Tape to hold it as I jump inside the rear to get the nuts on.

Removed everything put in the rear for last springs Moab trip.

The dirty replacement glass, and the fancy 3M seal stuffs

Panel removed. 2nd gens has 8 studs/nuts for the 1/4 glass

About to remove the temp window repair and get this job done. It has held up all this time, but the rig has just sat too.

I think the seal tape will be the hardest part of the job, with getting it lined up in one go. That and I am doing this injured after a hard impact with the asphalt, that resulted in a Bruised shoulder, and an infected wound on the knee. Ack.... Wish me luck.

 

[Turdle]

Wish you luck. I kinda think 2" green frog tape around the whole edge of window would hold it , and leave no sticky stuff. It's my fav for stuff like this. Duct tape will work for sure but it leaves a mess.
Just don't hurt yourself worse. No jerky motions trying to catch falling glass, etc.
Maybe a pile of moving blankets on the ground in case it does slip. Just let it drop.

 

[gmanpaint]

Wish you luck. I kinda think 2" green frog tape around the whole edge of window would hold it , and leave no sticky stuff. It's my fav for stuff like this. Duct tape will work for sure but it leaves a mess.
Just don't hurt yourself worse. No jerky motions trying to catch falling glass, etc.
Maybe a pile of moving blankets on the ground in case it does slip. Just let it drop.

Thanks Jon, It's appreciated! I was careful. Last thing I want is to get this leg amputated. LOL I put down cardboard and a moving blanket below too. I had some blue painters tape on hand. Never needed it.

I put the 3M seal on the rig itself. Then positioned the glass carefully at the top to get the studs inserted, then like a hinge, pushed the bottom in slowly and lined it up as I went. Once it was seated, it was just a matter of going around the perimeter and pushing it in snug. That 3M seal is sticky! It held it just fine as I went inside and drew the glass in tight with the nuts. There is actually 9 of them, not 8. I counted with my glasses on this time.

Took me a total of 7 hours to get that done. Clean up on the replacement glass, and the rig itself ate a bunch of that time. I had some 12v power accessories on that panel, that had to be removed and installed too. Broke out the shop vac a few times to clean glass shards. Bet that will never get cleaned 100% unless I do the dyno mat sound proofing.

All cleaned for the new seal.

The Good:
Window is in, and the rig can get it's safety inspection done now. (I need a new awning cover too. The rocks kind of grated on it)

The Bad:

The C Pillar is slightly dented in the center from the flop. If you go back and look at the window out pic above, you can see the dent. There is a small gap between the window plastic trim, and the body right there as a result. I might add some silicone there just to be safe.

The paint is like sanded off in a spot to the bare metal. I need to take care of that before winter hits. You can see all the duct tape residue in the pic below too.
I really am not well enough to be messing too much with this thing yet. It's frustrating as hell to spend all that time on my ****box junk, and then can't use it, or work on it.

 

[Paul]

Just keep pluggin' away. . . It'll all get done in time.

Paul

 

[410Fortune]

This thread is 193 pages
Let’s see another 193! You can do it!

 

[traveler]

This thread is 193 pages
Let’s see another 193! You can do it!

LoL No one can accuse Greg of not keeping us up to date on his build!

 

[gmanpaint]

Felt bad hogging up so much of the forum with all my posts. I think I waited long enough tho. Maybe?

I almost pulled the trigger on a nice set of IceCo made drawers and top slides as they had a sale last weekend. I seen that two of them side by side I wanted weighed in at 150 Lbs. That killed the deal for me. Was all excited to have something not home made, but they was 50 lbs heavier than the heaviest setup I have made, and 100 lbs more than what I have now. Went from excited to bummed very fast. Ahh well...

So I got an email from RockAuto that gave me links to warehouse closeout parts for both the 94 & 95 Ex's. I filled my cart with all kinds of goodies for $100.

This rig had an AC malfunction where it leaked the coolant after the engine swap. I charged it many times since to get some use out of it, but the last time was before last springs Moab trip. After the flop on it's side, I was burping the cooling system as one of the last things done, and getting it up to temp was taking forever. I thought hey lets turn on the A/C, that should help. The second I turned it on, the entire system evacuated instantly. Made a mess of the engine compartment. So now, I need to address this issue, and try to get it fixed.

What I am struggling to figure out is just how I should go about it. I will need to hire a shop to do this work, but how far to do I go with it?
Replace every single part in the system? Replace some of it? Let the shop supply the parts and make $$ off them, or find someone willing to do the work if I supply the parts? If I supply the parts, should I just flush the condenser, or replace it? Replacing it will be a ****! Besides the normal parts, Should I replace the compressor too?

I hate not being able to physically do this stuff to figure out what I need as I go.

 

[BKennedy]

I did it myself, then had a shop charge the system. I bought a kit off RockAuto. It had the tank, orifice, compressor and new O-rings. I removed the old parts and sprayed two cans of AC flush through the system, then blew that out with compressed air. The orifice was nasty. Coated with black gunk.

When I eventually engine swap mine, that's going to be one of the big hurdles is working AC. I rarely use mine anymore as it robs power, and the temps go up, on a already gutless engine. It would be nice to close the windows and crank up the AC like a civilized person.

Maybe you could have a friend help you while you supervise? It should be a relatively easy job. None of the parts are hard to access as long as you don't replace the condenser. AC work is stupid expensive through a shop.

 

[gmanpaint]

I did it myself, then had a shop charge the system. I bought a kit off RockAuto. It had the tank, orifice, compressor and new O-rings. I removed the old parts and sprayed two cans of AC flush through the system, then blew that out with compressed air. The orifice was nasty. Coated with black gunk.

When I eventually engine swap mine, that's going to be one of the big hurdles is working AC. I rarely use mine anymore as it robs power, and the temps go up, on a already gutless engine. It would be nice to close the windows and crank up the AC like a civilized person.

Maybe you could have a friend help you while you supervise? It should be a relatively easy job. None of the parts are hard to access as long as you don't replace the condenser. AC work is stupid expensive through a shop.

I was looking at the kit on Rock Auto. Last time I did A/C work was on the 94, and I bought everything but the Compressor and Condenser, and flushed them. Had a friend come over with a pump and manifold to charge it on a barter deal. Lasted 3 months. Because of that fail, I have been reluctant to work on these things myself. Now I can't do it if I wanted too. Well I might be able to do it a little at a time, but who knows how long that will take. If I tried and got to a spot where I was stuck, then a tow to a shop willing to finish the job would be just as hard to accomplish.

I had the 94 rig in for a muffler, and I asked them for an estimate to replace the system. They asked for a few days to put it together, and would let me know. That was almost 2 years ago. Haven't heard back about it, and I was there since for something else. I didn't even bring it up. figured they wanted nothing to do with it. LOL

 

[CDW6212R]

The AC drier is the main part that needs to be replaced when the system is open, moisture gets into that and too much reduces its effectiveness. The rest you can clean or flush out, and reuse depending on what debris gets into the system. So a system kept closed, but old, can be reused if the drier is replaced.

Replace all of the o-rings, those green things leak when they get old and deformed. Any external quick connect lock/clamp is a great idea, the connections vibrate and it creates leaks. The clamps hold them tight which almost stops the leaks which are from o-ring wear. The aftermarket type have come in aluminum, plastic, and fiberglass I think. Any are great, they are sized for the connection sizes. I used to install those on each new used car I bought, with new o-rings. That and a professional vacuum put on it, fresh freon, and they last for ages.

So not counting defective AC items, the parts are not bad, do your own labor, and pay a shop to suck it down and install freon and oil.

 

[gmanpaint]

The AC drier is the main part that needs to be replaced when the system is open, moisture gets into that and too much reduces its effectiveness. The rest you can clean or flush out, and reuse depending on what debris gets into the system. So a system kept closed, but old, can be reused if the drier is replaced.

Replace all of the o-rings, those green things leak when they get old and deformed. Any external quick connect lock/clamp is a great idea, the connections vibrate and it creates leaks. The clamps hold them tight which almost stops the leaks which are from o-ring wear. The aftermarket type have come in aluminum, plastic, and fiberglass I think. Any are great, they are sized for the connection sizes. I used to install those on each new used car I bought, with new o-rings. That and a professional vacuum put on it, fresh freon, and they last for ages.

So not counting defective AC items, the parts are not bad, do your own labor, and pay a shop to suck it down and install freon and oil.

Sounds great, but like I said, I am not able to do the work myself in a timely manner currently.

Never seen these clamps your talking about either. Got a link or Pic?

If I could physically do it.....The Accumulator, orifice, lines and compressor is what I would replace. I would just Flush the Condenser, as their is so much involved to removing it, it's not funny. I am going to make some calls around town, and start asking what people might or might not do.