Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread

As some of you know, I am working on building a parts list for a shortened Dana 44, long radius arm with coil overs SAS. 5:13 gears to match my rear axle and an ARB, maybe an electric locker. I have a pretty good list so far. At the same time, I am going to swap out the rear drum brakes for discs off of a 99 Explorer.

Please note: The plan is to keep this project as simple as possible with mostly off the shelf parts. I am not a fabricator, just a decent welder with a what I would consider the minimum required tools (chop saw, cut off wheels, air tools, welder, etc.), who likes doing his own work. Your opinions are welcome, but what I really need is technical advice. I have been thinking about this for several years and now have the time and cash to make it happen. Please keep on topic with your advice and don't go off on a side track about how you would do it as a four-link, or caged arms, or leave the axle full-width because that is not what I want. I want a simple-ish set up that works.

 

[Stic-o]

I went down and looked at mine, since I'm basically running the same setup. The Banjo bolts are on top, and it looks like you got that figured that out. I remember the bolts being super sensitive, and I pretty sure I had to order a 2nd set because I messed up the original ones I bought by over tightening them. I remember I got 2 left calipers or something to, so I have a spare for one of the sides.

My braided line I think came from summit, it has a normal fitting where it goes into the metal line. I left my ABS alone and just kept running the whole mess. So I have a left and right line that goes up into the ABS setup. No problems with it.

Pics of my lines

 

[BKennedy]

Yeah, like that, only cleaner.

Mine came with the kit from BC Broncos. The T-Bird caliper kit worked well for me because I did not have the original parts. They were a rusted mess.

I must spend too much time on Pirate, because I have been waiting for the onslaught of funnies about me having the calipers on the wrong side. There should be at least a full page of "that's because you are an idiot" type responses. I must say, that I have never seen calipers that had the bleeder valve even with the hose fitting. It was such a rookie mistake that I did not even consider it being possible.....
Again, thanks to everyone. I am off to get new lines.

 

[4pullingGM]

No bashing here, if we are all honest, we ALL have over looked simple stuff. Takes a big person to admit it. Good job getting it figured out

 

[BKennedy]

I must admit, I had all kinds of stories going through my head, but I am honest with myself. I am just happy it got sorted out. Got the new brake lines in and have great pedal pressure.
After that, I pulled the transfer case to clock the front output down. Guess what?? The drive shaft will interfere with the transmission cross member, so I just put it back the way it was. Fun stuff to spend a couple hours bench pressing a transfer case while ATF is dripping in your face for no gain. I am worried that the front driveshaft will bind at near full droop. I pulled out some limit straps I had that were two inches shorter than the straps I used in mock-up. Should get me through the weekend. When I get back, if we don't have any trips planned for a few weeks, I will make a new cross member.
All I have left is to fill the transmission back up with fluid, set the turning stops so the tie rod doesn't bounce off the pumpkin cover, and wire up the locker. I am going to do a quick job on the locker wiring because the plan is to re-do all the wiring that I have put in over the years. One look under the dash will tell the tale, what a mess. Oh, and a test drive, oh, and I need to drive it up on the wall in the back yard for a picture for T-Bars.
Then pack, get the RV ready, shop for the weekend, AAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Rick]

Pheww... so glad you've got it figured out!

BTW... I am just about out of firewood and haven't been able to get anymore delivered yet I'm going to try and pick up some packs at the grocery store, but if you could bring extra that wold be great...

 

[BKennedy]

The steering did not match the track bar like I had hoped. I can either get a stock pitman arm, or change the track bar frame mount for more drop. I like the angle of the drag link better than the track bar. I am going out to Truckhaven and see how it runs as is.

Obligatory flex shots. This would be about max articulation for my old suspension. It did not even get anywhere close on the new:

Drove it around town today. It drives pretty good. Felt real sensitive to the road until I let a few pounds of air out of the tires.

 

[BKennedy]

Then, I decided I did not like it and put it back to stock.

 

[kanuck15]

I can see why you put it back to stock lol. Clean is mean!

 

[4pullingGM]

Looks real nice, well done!

 

[Rick]

Then, I decided I did not like it and put it back to stock.

LMAO!!!

Great work Brian!! Can't wait to get out there and see it

We'll be seeing you soon!!

 

[Tbars4]

..:scratch:..I like that wall in the middle of the backyard..It's a foundation...For something..but still...I like that wall..

 

[Turdle]

That came out real nice!..

I would run the steering-trac bar as is , I think for how you use the Explorer it will be fine.

 

[BKennedy]

..:scratch:..I like that wall in the middle of the backyard..It's a foundation...For something..but still...I like that wall..

At first, I thought it was a foundation because its solid brick under the stucco, but there is no posts, holes, threaded metal rods, etc., on the top. I think some previous owner had a hot tub and wanted a low wall around it, or used it as a seating area with cushions on top because it is at sitting height. I was thinking of sand blasting the stucco off to expose the red brick, getting some nice redwood and topping it with bench seating.

Back to the SAS. I have three more tasks to conquer before I consider the SAS finished:

1) Clock the transfer case to reduce front drive shaft angle (requires new transmission cross member, linkage mount for transfer case cable shifter).
2) Get the track bar and drag link on the same plane (either dropping the track bar or raising the drag link).
3) Wire front locker (self explanatory).

 

[BKennedy]

That came out real nice!..

I would run the steering-trac bar as is , I think for how you use the Explorer it will be fine.

I do drive it on the street quite often, but we will see how it goes. Due to my German engineering ancestry, I don't like it when stuff is not as good as I can get it.

 

[Tbars4]

Back to the SAS. I have three more tasks to conquer before I consider the SAS finished:

1) Clock the transfer case to reduce front drive shaft angle (requires new transmission cross member, linkage mount for transfer case cable shifter).
2) Get the track bar and drag link on the same plane (either dropping the track bar or raising the drag link).
3) Wire front locker (self explanatory).

..You are leaving for Truckhaven in a couple hours, correct?..and you are planning to do all this before you leave?..

 

[DB_1]

Awesome Brian Looks like all your planning and hard work paid off. Can't wait to see it in action this weekend.

 

[BKennedy]

..You are leaving for Truckhaven in a couple hours, correct?..and you are planning to do all this before you leave?..

Ahhhhhhhhhh, no.
I will use this weekend as a shakedown to see what else I need to work on, and do it all an once. I limited the front suspension with limit straps that are 2" shorter than the straps I used for mock-up. It should keep the front drive shaft from binding until I can clock the transfer case. I will just go on trails that only drop the passenger side...........
Besides, the coil springs seemed to be loose in the cups at full droop with the longer limit straps and I don't want them slipping loose. I might need a triple rate setup, or just get longer upper springs, whichever is cheaper.

 

[gmanpaint]

Congrats on getting it rolling! Looks fantastic!

 

[FR-425]

Here's my "BONE HEAD" move this week while getting prepped for Truck Haven.

Hope this cheers you up:

Changing the transfer case ATF turned into a brake problem!

In the morning I backed out and RAN OVER THE STINKING DRAIN PAN! ;

splashing ATF all over Phoenix and my right front brake! Arrrrrgrhhhhaaa.

Brake cleaner, brake cleaner, brake cleaner::: and it still pulls left!

All Brand spanking new Ceramics.

Gonna run it up to 100 mph and burn it off!! !!! !!!! ?????

Fire Explorer - Extinguisher in hand of course.

 

[BKennedy]

SAS is working well with amazing flex and stability. I really like the lack of body roll in the twisty stuff.
Only a few issues. Partly the reason I need to clock the transfer case to reduce the front drive shaft is it looked like it might contact the exhaust cross pipe. It does and it melted a hole in my drive shaft boot. Hits both fenders at stuff. Needed to bend a little sheet metal. Need to add an inch to the bump stops. Need to adjust the slide stops in the coil overs so the upper coils only have a few inches before the main coils take over. Way too much sway on off-angle trails. I am figuring out that the upper coils should be mainly for a few inches of up, then mostly droop.

Also need to redo the track bar frame mount to drop the track bar a few inches. Got some bump steer. I was going to take the easy route and get a stock pitman arm to raise the drag link, but flatter is better and the steering setup angles look great.