4.0 Remote Turbo Buildup

[Xan]

Its looking good so far. I was going to copy what you did on the FMIC, but hopefully my truck will be sold in about 5 days (It's on ebay)

Were you joking? I'm looking for a new car, i looked for it and couldnt find it

 

[justin146]

Were you joking? I'm looking for a new car, i looked for it and couldnt find it

Not kidding; I had it on eBay but it didnt sell sell. If you are interested in it, PM me. I even bought a new set of headers for it http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=202889

 

[jah81592]

Okay - A little update here..


The cold side has been completely mocked up. I then pulled it back apart and sent it to Dad to weld up. It's actually been there for awhile because we had a death in the family. Also, I order the STS PCV evac system. What this does is; once a certain boost level is present, the system vents to the atmosphere. When not in boost, everything is normal (Goes back into the engine). Lastly, I ordered the SCT BA 2600 MAF meter and picked up a autolite boost gauge.

I still need some other parts but I'm slowly making progress. I was planning on taking next week off and finishing this up but that fell thru. I hope to have this done in the next couple of months. As soon as I get something worth posting, I'll post pics. When I get it running, I'll post a vid. Maybe I'll take a vid of James tuning it?

Looks like progress is going good. I haven't been able to surf the forums lately due to income tax time being my busiest of the year. When you get everything installed and able to do some logs, we will get you started so you can drive down the road just to ensure everything is good before I come to your location to tune. Your driveability will be complete before I get there so all we have to do is wot tuning. -j

 

[Xan]

I got the SCT BA2600 meter from Hensonperformance and all I can say is that thing is pretty dang big. Bigger than I expected....

Lets see some pictures compared with something, How big is it?

 

[justin146]

And since the BA2600 has a built in IAT sensor, it is a direct swap. If you would have gone with a Lightning MAF, you would have had to install an IAT sensor bung and splice some wires.

 

[rocket 5979]

Hey James and Robert. I have one concern about where I'm mounting this MAF. I can only get maybe 12" of straight pipe right before it. I'll post some mock-up pics of it soon. Please let me know if you think it's going to cause any problems.

12" of straight pipe before the MAFS is not bad. I think you will be just fine with that. I do suggest that you transition from the smaller pipe to your 3.5" tubing as far before the MAFS as possible; maybe even coming right out of the FMIC. That will also minimize turbulence going into the MAFS. With the room in your engine bay I think you will probably be just fine with the MAFS placement and intake tube configuration.

 

[justin146]

Hey James and Robert. I have one concern about where I'm mounting this MAF. I can only get maybe 12" of straight pipe right before it. I'll post some mock-up pics of it soon. Please let me know if you think it's going to cause any problems.

And remember, it needs to be after the intercooler.

 

[rocket 5979]

And remember, it needs to be after the intercooler.

Hehehehe. I would really hope he already knew this. Also, it would be a pain in the rear to route the charge pipe up to place the MAFS in, then go back down to the FMIC, and then back up on the other side to the intake. If Jakee didn't already know that then he would have no place doing his own custom turbo system.

 

[rocket 5979]

Wait. I thought the MAF meter went in the exhaust?

All is good but I've already got 3" coming out of the FMIC. Also, the 3" to (4" actually) is happening right when entering the engine bay and right before the MAF. The transition is very gradual; like around 6" maybe? If you get the picture, will this work okay?

I ran into one snag with the wideband. Can you run the LC1 with an autometer air/fuel gage? It's not working to good for me right now and I'm not sure what more needs to be done; Or, if there's anything that can be done to make this work. I still have the innovative gauge but I don't really like the looks of it. ANy suggestions?

What exactly is "right before the MAF"??? It is good to have the transition be gradual so airflow has a better chance to follow the contours of the tube and cause less turbulence but it is best to place that 3"-4" transition as far away from the MAFS as possible.

You should be able to easily hook the LC-1 to the Autometer gauge or any other AFR gauge. Are you sure you have the Autometer gauge hooked up to the right analog wire and have the subsequent analog output configured correctly? For the first 20-30 seconds while the O2 sensor is warming up the gauge will incrementally read rich at first and then go leaner and leaner and so on. Once the system is warmed up then you will see the gauge much more responsive and moving around when the engine is started. Also, did you do the free air calibration yet? How far with the wideband have you gotten? I suggest that you just concentrate on the turbo first and get all the construction for it buttoned up and then just have an electrical day dedicated to your gauges, PCV bypass, oil system pump, warning buzzer and so on. I find it better for me if I am in one mode only. I am either in metal fabrication mode or electrical mode or so on. Attempting to concentrate on more than one thing will make you lose focus and screw things up.

 

[Turdle]

I'm very interested in how you make this work with the autometer gauge. I have one also and would prefer to leave it be.
How did yours act when wired straight into the upstream sensor? Once James got my driveability tune dialed in, Mine started behaving just about right. Before it just bounced around in a pretty light show--

 

[rocket 5979]

I got the wide band hooked up complete but I have to program output 2 for 1V = AFR 7.7, 0V = AFR 21.7 for use with the autometer. I need to re-do the calibration routines.

I'll shoot some pics of what I have planned. I may have to start over with this section but oh well.

Programming the LC-1 is easy as pie. Input your numbers for the Autometer gauge voltage/AFR inputs into 4 different boxes in the corresponding analog #2 tab and you are done. I also suggest that you go into the advanced analog settings and change the response time to something slower like 1/3 second or even 1/6 second. That will minimize your gauge having a light show and jumping all around hell's creation. Overall easy day bro.

 

[rocket 5979]

Okay plan B.

What I can do is switch sides from the intercooler and that will enable me to have almost 2' of straight pipe before the MAF. The MAF will have to be under the truck; right below the e-fan on the passengers side. I will need to extend the MAF wires.

Robert - James? Do you like plan B more?

I think you will likely be ok with plan A but I do suggest that you step up to the tubing that is the same size as your MAFS housing further than 12" before. I suggest the piece of tubing that is shown in one of the last pictures that has the MAFS stuck on the top of it be reconfigured a bit. I am attaching a picture of what I am talking about. This way will allow you to minimize air turbulence that the MAFS see's because you now have a fairly straight piece of tube going to the MAFS and it also doesn't change diameter for a while before the MAFS also.

 

[rocket 5979]

I want to mention another item on a more cosmetic note. If I were you I would cut the flange off of the MAFS housing and weld the housing to your intake tube so that it is all one piece. Otherwise you have that ugly big flange and its adapter there that kill the sexxy lines of the tube. Then get it all powdercoated to a color of your choice. It will look like a very professional install that way.

 

[rocket 5979]

Okay - Stick with plan, move the transition, and continue on with 3.5" pipe to the same general location where the MAF is in the pic?

Yes.

 

[jah81592]

MAF under the truck will work.

 

[Sams01XplrSprt]

jake is ur sport turbo charged now and do u got video clips of it so we can hear the turbo

 

[frickea86]

Just got threw all 8 pages, sounds like you've done your research and looks like its going to be a kick a$$ set up once completed. I hope I will be soon to follow in about a year or two. Have to get out of school first before any real money will be put towards the truck.

I have a few questions, I am very much a noob when it comes to the charged setups. I was wondering, why do you use a PCV bypass setup, is it needed, why is it needed? Just wondering, at WOT is there too much pressure for the PCV system?

Thanks guys, lots of info here, learned a few new things. Going to have to buy a welder sometime and start practicing up. Whats the best way to learn, mig or tig?

 

[Richie18]

MIG is more the standard, it's easier and faster compared to TIG and probably what you'll find most people know. TIG is for thinner metals, is harder to master but can be more precise in it's application.

So you would start off with MIG most likely.

 

[Turdle]

Don't they make a crank case vaccum pump for this?

 

[Turdle]

Ah-
Visual stimulation would be nice