5.0 2to4wd 4406 and tons

[Scotts96sploder]

Does it throw a code ?

I do not have indicator wired in our 2000 , runs fine in 4 lo

Pondering this for a minute.

I haven’t run a code check, it flashes o/d off which I believe is limp mode.
Maybe the 2wd PCM is different? This is a conversion. I’m pulling the speed signal off the transfer case, and I know I never got enough speed for it to register, max RPM probably 3500 maybe. I wasn’t paying that close of attention, just happened to notice the flash when I drove out. I cycled it and ran 4/2hi the rest of the day with no problems.
I have to check over all the steering and suspension when I get home tonight because I said I would drive it to work tomorrow, so I’ll run a code check also.

 

[Turdle]

Gem can't know if 4wd selected or not.

Pcm might see no overdrive, or, torque converter lock though.

 

[410Fortune]

The 5.0 pcm has no idea if you have a transfer case or not

All 5.0 are either awd or rwd no connections to the 4wd system were made, the 5.0 pcm does not know or care about high range or 4wd low it will just think you are driving slowly

Your dtrs (digital trans range sensor, or neutral safety switch for Chevy dudes) should be be adjusted with your shift linkage in neutral, there is an arrow on the switch that points to neutral so you can line things up
The pcm does want to see that 8000 pulses per mile (Dakota output) on the vss grey/black speed sensor wire… it needs to know your moving and road speed for shifting the 4r70w

Something fishy

I’ve never had a light from being into 4wd
Pull the trans codes, flashing od light will tell you what the issue is
Maybe p0500 the pcm may not know you are moving? That’s my guess for now


Is that saltwater??? Get out the power washer!!

 

[Scotts96sploder]

The 5.0 pcm has no idea if you have a transfer case or not

All 5.0 are either awd or rwd no connections to the 4wd system were made, the 5.0 pcm does not know or care about high range or 4wd low it will just think you are driving slowly

Your dtrs (digital trans range sensor, or neutral safety switch for Chevy dudes) should be be adjusted with your shift linkage in neutral, there is an arrow on the switch that points to neutral so you can line things up
The pcm does want to see that 8000 pulses per mile (Dakota output) on the vss grey/black speed sensor wire… it needs to know your moving and road speed for shifting the 4r70w

Something fishy

I’ve never had a light from being into 4wd
Pull the trans codes, flashing od light will tell you what the issue is
Maybe p0500 the pcm may not know you are moving? That’s my guess for now


Is that saltwater??? Get out the power washer!!

First thing I did wash wash everything when I got home. That’s why I haven’t had time to do anything else.
Could maybe having the Dakota set too low not send enough pulses? I’ve driven around in 4lo before I had a front drive shaft, and before I got the speed setting adjusted properly. I actually got it to shift all the way into overdrive reading 15 mph with no issues. I never did it for very far though. My Speedo could actually bump up just a little, it’s about 5 under at highway speeds, so maybe the pulse count being sent is below a recognizable range in 4lo at actually low speeds?

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Ok boys I’m officially confused.

First, the clunk I thought I was hearing in the steering yesterday seems to have self healed overnight.
Second, no codes, of any kind, with a legit scan tool…
So I locked the hubs and drove around the neighborhood in 4lo skipping tires all around to make it fault out. Took a minute but it did it. Nothing odd seemed to happen other than the light flashing. Decided to see what worked and got it to shift into overdrive. Shortly after hitting top cruising speed in 4lo it stopped flashing. Pulled over and hooked up the scan tool, no codes. I don’t know why I wasn’t already watching live data but I decided to try that. Tried a bunch of different combos, load goes way up with the front locked in obviously, and the only other thing that sticks out is it does not register a speed in 1st gear, at all, 0 mph up to maybe 2500 and I didn’t want to push it past that. After that first limp mode flash I couldn’t get it to do it again, even tried turning tight up a hill in 1st to get the load way up with 0 speed signal and no result.
Maybe temperature?
Does it pump more fluid in higher gears? I have three coolers so you would think that wouldn’t be a problem but I don’t have a trans temp gauge yet. It’s coming.
lol any ideas? It seems like I can ignore it because it preforms just fine.
One other thought, I’m using the cluster out of a like 2002ish sport trac, that might not be the same flashing light. The fuel cap light is actually the door light I’m going to switch it back soon because the CEL doesn’t work either.

 

[410Fortune]

Hahahahahah
Okay with flashing od light it’s a trans code you need to check manufacture specific codes you won’t get it with a normal code scan

Anywhere around 8000 pulses per mile will work it doesn’t have to be exact for the pcm to know your moving and figure out approximate speed

My guess is you will get a p0500 which is a speed sensor code, no big deal it’s not gonna go into limp mode for that but you will get a flashing light

If you get p0500 code we need to look at your speed sensor and Dakota wiring make sure the pcm is only getting the one signal it needs not multiple to confuse it

You need to compare 02
Cluster wiring to your 97 truck and you are gonna have to move some wires around they changed locations of some indicators.
I often update the older trucks clusters with the 02-04 ones because they just look better: but you can run into some issues with coolant sensors otherwise everything pretty Much swaps over 96-04 can be used,
But you for sure have to move some wires

Try pulling manufacturer codes with your scanner.. if the light is flashing there is a code in memory I promise you that

You are getting close now!
If the trans went into limp mode you would notice it to w shifting would be very harsh and firm because it’s running at full line pressure, with a simple speed sensor code it will still shift okay just with preset parameters instead of using live data

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Ok so they must be hiding in the menu that won’t automatically populate, I have to put in a bunch of vin information. I’ll get around to doing that.
Yeah shifts just fine, up into OD and goes away. Idk pretty sure I’m wired correctly.
Yellow and blk/red are the sensor and the blue is spliced into the PCM wiring. Like I said it doesn’t register a speed according to live data in 1st gear-4low, but the speed is fairly accurate up to about 45-50 and then it reads about 5-10% low. Basically won’t see anything under 5 mph. So I think I’m going to try to adjust it up slightly and see what happens. It’s about 450 pulses per 100 yards so at 3 mph that’s not many pulses per second.

 

[410Fortune]

Spliced in maybe the issue
The vss wore goes many places
It should only be leaving the Dakota and feeding the speedometer and the pcm that’s it
You are manual shift 4wd and no cruise control so no need to feed the gem or anything else the vss signal from the Dakota

Do you still have an abs pump in place? I can’t remember if so you may still have a vss signal to and from that which is no longer needed since the Dakota is supposed to take its place

On my scanner I just choose “scan” and then pick “ford USA” and then it communicates and gives me the option of what modules I want to talk to, pcm, gem, and abs are the options. You want pcm and then be able to see trans codes

If you need a v8 vin for a 97for your scanner
Let me know I have a few of them outside

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Drove it to work today, turns out I left the scanner in here. I took pics to prove I’m not crazy No codes. Other than airbag stuff. I do have a cruise control, not sure if it works. Be kinda cool if it did!
I think something weird is going on with the cluster maybe. Im going to switch that back asap and see what happens then. I also bumped up the ratio by +.2 to see what happens. I’ve got two more days of work then I’m off till next month so I’ll have lots of time to fiddle.

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Going to go test the 4lo in a usually dry retention pond by the house tomorrow. Haven’t been in the mood to tear up tires for troubleshooting.
But speaking of electrical wizardry, I need to figure out these mirrors, and I think since I deleted the rear wiper I might make the push button part of that switch into a hidden start switch.
Mirrors, none of it works. I thought the heat did, but I tried it this morning and no dice. Think I’ll order some complete assemblies after a little troubleshooting. It’s not a fuse as I just tested every single one, and it’s not either switch since I replaced the switch and the defrost works on the back glass kind of.
Switch should be easy, just need to find which wires are for start and extend them over to whichever pins are for the wash. I think that would be kinda cool. Still requires a key, but slight anti-theft protection kinda.

Any super common issues with the mirrors that I don’t know about? No motors, no heat. Pretty sure one of them worked in only one direction before I started this, I may check again to see.

 

[410Fortune]

Mirrors are pretty tough in these rigs not really any known weak spots? I’ve never had issues with a switch or the wiring to and from them

Only thing that is common is the drivers door boot wiring, the factory did not give enough slack on those wires and we often find broken wires in the door to body connector

I would start by checking fuses and then check for power at the mirror switch /‘drivers door

 

[Scotts96sploder]

4lo dirt test drive:
OD/off flash came back, played around a bit to see if it would go away like before, it didn’t. Couldn’t get fast enough where I was to hit OD, so I don’t know if it would, I was definitely in third for a bit. Pulled over and ran codes while it was still flashing, P0500 speed signal fault.
Since it doesn’t seem to actually affect anything, I think I’m going to ignore it for now, but I believe the suggestion was to remove the splice and only send the signal to the cluster?
I’m waiting till I have my other gauges to rip the dash apart, I’ll be switching back to the original cluster at the same time.
Interior:
Got the driver side plastic reinstalled. Same as the headliner, stainless 4/20 and nutcerts everywhere there was a pin and where the coat hook used to be. I think I’m going to probably cut the clip plastic out and do the same thing on the a pillar piece because it now has a gauge pod and will get gauges soon adding a little weight, so I think some extra rigidity there might be a good idea.
I think I want to replace the headliner handles (whatever they are called) with some stainless ones, and add a few in the spots shown to make it easier for passengers to get in. I’ll have to find a way to secure them to steel obviously, but the one under the passenger airbag spot will be easy.
Electronicals:
Mirrors don’t have heat because it’s a 3 wire… I could have sworn they had heat but I have a lot of cars so that must be another one.
12vdc to the mirror switch, nothing out, obviously nothing at the mirrors. I do know they were both broken in some way so both mirrors and a switch SHOULD fix that problem. I really wanted the heat but I’m probably not going to spend the time to figure out how to get power out there to run it. Unless that’s super easy? Doubt it.

 

[410Fortune]

Only Send signal to Cluster and pcm cutting out signal to anything else ( like abs pump, cruise, at least for testing purposes)

Can calibrate the Dakota box to be a bit more accurate? That might help

My 03 sport trac has a p0500 also.
Likely due to 5’speed manual transmission? Not sure… been driving like that for a year now. I’ve tried to fix it twice… might be part of the pcm tune

I knew it would be a p0500 often have to deal with this on converted trucks

You can put 06+ ranger square mirrors on that thing and add signal and heat… that would be a nice upgrade muth mirror systems makes heated glass with turn signals in them for your mirrors… running wires to them is fun! I did it on the 07 ranger and plan to on my sport trac

How to: - 410customs - Square Mirror Mod

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[Scotts96sploder]

I happened to be driving by Ford so I swung in and asked about the shift sensor, they found one for me and it’s on the way. So I guess I’m going to make that work.
Grabbed a FOB while I was at it, no idea what happened to my other one. Can’t get it to program. Battery is at 3.1V, did the key cycle x5, end in run, locks cycle, press a button and nothing happens. What am I missing?

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Finally got around to building some stops. Drove it up on some tires to test everything. I’m not mad about it.
I was able to shake the rig around up there so there is plenty more.

 

[Scotts96sploder]

I’ve been daily driving this crazy thing. Everything is working fine. Steering is kinda noisy, drive train is super clunky and that buzzer from behind tbe glove box likes to go off randomly. But other than that, thing is sweet!
I ordered the gauges to populate this pod. It’s from Glowshift and you can mold them like Kydex. Going to go oil pressure, coolant temp, and trans temp in and out with a toggle switch.
Trans temp is easy, just inline sensors in two of these T fittings. I think I know where a 1/8 npt plug is in the manifold, anyone have a good spot to tap the oil pressure? I found a port on the 5.4 off the driver side head, haven’t really seen one on the 5.0.
I’ll be going back to the original gauge cluster when I install these extra gauges. I’m hoping that the buzzer from the passenger side stops after that since it didn’t start till after I installed the 01 cluster. Maybe some kind of communication error I hope. If not I’m going to find it and poke a screwdriver though it

 

[allmyEXes]

Tap extension for oil pressure gauge. Also, I deleted the heat exchanger piece from oil filter adapter and used 3/4x3/4" filter adapter.

Copper line that hooks to the tap part.

 

[410Fortune]

Oil pressure port doubler

eClassics 1964-1967 Ford Galaxie Oil Pressure Sending Unit Dual Port Extension For V8

Buy this Engine Oil Pressure Sensor for 1964 Ford Galaxie, 1965 Ford Galaxie, 1966 Ford Galaxie, 1967 Ford Galaxie

eclassics.com

Glowshift hit or miss on quality
I installed a set years ago including a clock. A year later only the clock still worked
I swore off glowshift after that

Bosch has some
Decent cheaper mechanical gauges
Otherwise get the good stuff

So glad you’re driving it! Must be hella fun

 

[allmyEXes]

5.0 stainless fitting adapter

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Oil pressure port doubler

eClassics 1964-1967 Ford Galaxie Oil Pressure Sending Unit Dual Port Extension For V8

Buy this Engine Oil Pressure Sensor for 1964 Ford Galaxie, 1965 Ford Galaxie, 1966 Ford Galaxie, 1967 Ford Galaxie

eclassics.com

Glowshift hit or miss on quality
I installed a set years ago including a clock. A year later only the clock still worked
I swore off glowshift after that

Bosch has some
Decent cheaper mechanical gauges
Otherwise get the good stuff

So glad you’re driving it! Must be hella fun

Only issue I’ve had with them is a sticky color change button. Hopefully they will work for a while because they are already in the pile of parts to install, and I’m going to start that this afternoon.

Yes very fun. Absolutely love seeing jeep dude do a double take Also I still haven’t found anything that it will get stuck in. I’m sure I will, just haven’t yet.