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Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread

As some of you know, I am working on building a parts list for a shortened Dana 44, long radius arm with coil overs SAS. 5:13 gears to match my rear axle and an ARB, maybe an electric locker. I have a pretty good list so far. At the same time, I am going to swap out the rear drum brakes for discs off of a 99 Explorer.

Please note: The plan is to keep this project as simple as possible with mostly off the shelf parts. I am not a fabricator, just a decent welder with a what I would consider the minimum required tools (chop saw, cut off wheels, air tools, welder, etc.), who likes doing his own work. Your opinions are welcome, but what I really need is technical advice. I have been thinking about this for several years and now have the time and cash to make it happen. Please keep on topic with your advice and don't go off on a side track about how you would do it as a four-link, or caged arms, or leave the axle full-width because that is not what I want. I want a simple-ish set up that works.
 



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You got a ton of work done. Isn't self isolation great :rolleyes:

I finally finished fabricating the dash in my '70 Dart today. It's been sitting unfinished for three years. I sure hope they end this covid thing soon, I can't run out of projects or I'll go nutz 😱
 



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warning.........
Only 9 un used fuse positions left!!
I love the diagram! I did a diagram for the wifes FJ as I added a power dis box from a 93 explorer to her yota, mine is just a piece of cardboard with some scribble on it! LMFAO you'rs has its own excel file! Well done, good show!
 






Actually, its a Visio CAD drawing. I used to use that when I was working patrol for scene diagrams. I don't really see anything else that I would need to wire into a fuse panel, but you never know..
 






One more bumper pic
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I bought a set of LED license plate lights off eBay and they are way too bright. I would not want to be behind someone with these, so I need to figure out how to tone them down, or repair my OEM light housings that fell apart when I removed them. Stupid BRIGHT
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I bought a set of LED license plate lights off eBay and they are way too bright. Stupid BRIGHT

Try a few passes of black spray paint over the lenses. . . It'll help tone down the bright.

Enjoying following along, great effort during the Whu-Flu. . .

Paul
 






They make a tint spray you can put on those led's or you can use some black paint and cover more of the bulb up so the light is not so bright from behind the truck....
The lockdown bumper looks awesome, well done!
 






The seller or the license plate lamps suggested I use a resister when I asked for a refund. I replied that was not acceptable and they sent me a full refund. I ordered a set of OEM type replacement lights off Rock Auto.
We took the Explorer out for a long drive yesterday. It was nice to get out. Due to the recent rains, everything is lush and green where its usually brown. Lots of water flowing in the part-time streams. It was all 2wd trails and I only put it in 2Low so I could lock out the torque converter up a steep grade in 3rd to keep the trans temps low. Went down a road I had never been down before by the Three Sisters Falls trailhead and it was a nice, long drive along the side of a very steep and deep canyon. On the main dirt road through that area, some clown in a Tacoma was looking at the view coming around a blind corner and on my side of the road. I slid to a stop and he finally looked just in time to avoid a collision. Explorer performed very well besides being gutless on the highway. I noticed one of the rumbling noises at 60-65 on the highway is gone, so that must have been coming from the rear bumper.
Few scenic shots
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We covered about 150 miles, approximately 40 in the dirt so it was a good day.
 






The Explorer is going for another day drive tomorrow. I am thinking of seeing if I can sneak into the Anza-Borrego upper desert areas, or maybe going out to the Valley of the Moon area. Either way, its going to be hot out there, but not Ocotillo or Borrego hot.

Today, I spray painted over 90% of the license plate light lenses with 4 coats of black. They still might be too bright, but need to wait until dark.
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I have always thought my stereo didn't have enough power while cruising down the freeway with the windows rolled down (my favorite way to travel in the Explorer). The speakers I have are good for 300 watts each, so with that in mind a few weeks ago I purchased this amp.
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It was a good price (not too cheap to be crap, not too expensive to get trashed in a trail rig) is weather resistant, is smaller than most, had good reviews and should provide plenty of power. The issue is where to install. It won't fit under the passenger front seat. It could go under the passenger side rear seat, but that's where I store most of my recovery gear. Looks like I'm stuck with the OEM amp location, but that's going to take some work to get the plastic interior panel out to check if it will fit there. I have to pull that side of my raised floor, which is screwed and glued to its frame.
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I think the amp will fit in that space, but don't remember what it looks like in there. I set the amp against outside of the plastic and it clears. I do know the factory wiring for the OEM amp will make installing the new amp much easier. I left all the OEM wiring in place and used a bypass adaptor many years ago. Will not have to run speaker wires all over the place because they all go through there. I can also have a very short power cable coming from the auxiliary battery, which is almost directly below that space. The only long run wiring will be the 4 RCA hookups and the remote switch power from the head unit in the dash. I know that to get the best performance out of the amp I should run all new speaker wires but I think it will be fine for me using the OEM wiring. I'll probably get into that next week.
Edit: Just realized the RCA 4 channel cable I have is too short for this run, so I ordered a longer one. Might not show up in time for a next week install.
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Today, I spray painted over 90% of the license plate light lenses with 4 coats of black. They still might be too bright, but need to wait until dark.

If still too bright, spray a light coat over the remaining unpainted part - - it'll knock the illumination down a bit more. . . Great job.

Paul
 






If still too bright, spray a light coat over the remaining unpainted part - - it'll knock the illumination down a bit more. . . Great job.

Paul
They are still too bright. All they are supposed to do is make the rear license plate visible during darkness. I bet one of the LED's they have inside the housing would take care of that. I think there are ten. I'm going old school and installing the new OEM type replacements that came in the mail today.

Drove about 200 miles in the Explorer today, maybe 30 in the dirt. It was good dirt though. Went to Valley of the Moon area. Its high desert, but it was still hot out there today. Lots of big rocks and off-camber stuff. It was good enough to freak the wife out several times and just about as difficult as I would want out on a very hot day alone. Went in through the main road which is mostly paved, then up to the Elliot mine for lunch.

While up there I pull two bonehead maneuvers. First, I noticed my bumper mounted gas can appeared to be seeping fuel at the lower seam. It does that sometimes when under pressure. I loosened the cap to relieve the pressure. It was taking a long time so I turned it one more turn and baam, cap blew off shooting premium gas all over the back of the Explorer and me. Luckily I was wearing sun glasses. Wetted down my shift with water to get some of the smell out, but still spent the rest of the day stinking like gasoline. I think the 4,000 elevation and 96* day built up a lot more pressure than I have ever experienced in a gas can before.

Second, I installed my cheepo eBay awning for the day because it was going to be hot and there is limited shade out there. That wasn't the bonehead maneuver. I opened up the awning and set it up. I walked to the rear of the Explorer to grab my guide lines because it was breezy and watched the awning flip almost upside-down. Luckily, it only tore the end out of one of the thin aluminum poles used to keep the sides rigid. I rolled it back up, sans the one pole. I think I can repair the pole, maybe figure out how to make them a little stronger at the ends while I am at it. So stinking of gasoline with no shirt while sitting in the hot sun made for a unsatisfactory lunch break.

After lunch, we took a couple of side trails, then took the wrong trail and ended up in a canyon driving along the original barb wire border fence for a few miles. Found a abandoned late model Expedition parked in the sand at the bottom of this canyon. It was obviously a Border Patrol vehicle, but all the equipment, stickers and plates were removed. It must have driven down into the canyon, which has two access trails but both require a very steep climbs over big rocks to get out. No way it was making it back out of there. Didn't look to have been there very long. I forgot to take a picture. The way we took to get out was the most challenging part of the trails of the day. Lots of turns around boulders, up and overs, and off-camber stuff. Luckily it tied into the trail I was looking for that drops down to a wide dirt access road to the big border wall. The trail down was fun, tight with some good drops over big rocks, with no room for error due to a several hundred feet drop on the driver side. As soon as we hit I-8 westbound, I noticed my driver window was jammed and wouldn't roll up. Its happened before but its been a while. I think I am going to order a new power door motor because it was a warm drive home. It would have been nice to crank up the AC. Got home about an hour ago. Explorer worked very well. Transmission never got over 180 on the freeway pulling a very long grade, mostly in 3rd with the converter locked. Engine usually stayed around the "N" in NORMAL unless I was running the AC, then it went up to the "M". It did start creeping past that after about 30 miles of up hill on the way out so AC came off.

Some Pics
View from Elliot Mine
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We got buzzed by a Homeland Security helicopter right about when we stopped. They flew past level with us and close enough that I made eye contact with the pilot. The entrance to this area is right off the In-Ko-Pah exit of I-8. They are always BP cars parked in this area. I think one of them asked the helicopter to see what we were doing up there alone, on a Thursday, on a very hot day.
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Side trail in / out of valley (reminds me of Chutes and Ladders board game)
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Solar farm and the big mean border wall.
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I need to remember to toss an extra shirt into the cargo area after I clean it up, maybe a pair of socks too.
 






good idea with the shirt and socks
Smelling like gasoline sucks, been there done that!
We used to live at 9000' its funny to see a bag of chips when you bring it to 9000' they are about ready to explode
Glad the trip was a success and you and the wife got some wheeling in!!

In my old 96 Explorer I mounted a 5 channel amp using the factory wires from behind that cargo panel. It worked out very very well, not having to run speaker wires all over is the way to go!
I went through a similar thing with the LED license plate lights, most of them are just too brite, especially from behind the vehicle. I finally found one that has 6 led's, is diffused, points down and has a black shade over the exposed area from behind. This is what I am running on the bronco and wifes FJ cruiser.


Tooooooo hot to be out there with no awning!! Get that sucker fixed.
 






Oh, the Atlas II is awesome. With the NP231, I would have it in low range, trans in 1st and still have to stand on the brakes while descending a steep grade. With the Atlas in the same scenario, I usually have the trans in 2nd with the converter locked and it slowly cruises down the grade with no brakes and a cool transmission. If its real steep and real slippery/bumpy/scary/etc., I put the trans in 1st. Going up, I put the trans gear selector in 3rd to keep it out of overdrive and just let it shift. The 3.8 was a good choice with the 700R4 transmission.

Redhead steering gear box was a great investment. Nearly all the drift I used to experience on the highway is gone. Explorer cruises down the highway at 60-70 all day long and is comfortable to drive long distances. I think that's great for a trail rig. With the new custom leaf springs, most of the sway is gone (except for slow speed right or left turns on the highway, but that's more of a lean). I think what is left is mostly the tire side walls flexing. On the trail the leaf springs are very stable, so stable that I don't mind the off-camber stuff as much. My suspension would seem too stiff to most people for a rock crawler. However, for a rock crawling, drive down the freeway for 100's of miles, expedition camping, multi-purpose off-road rig, the extra stability of a stiffer suspension that is still very flexy is just right.

I ordered a new power window motor. I think I cracked one of the screw mounts on the driver door panel pull handle so I need to pull that apart and glue it back together. I almost purchased a new regulator (track) for the window, but I will just clean/grease the OEM regulator so I don't have to mess with the glass.

Every off road trip gives me a few things to work on when I get home.
 






I pulled the inner door panels off the front doors. Both of the pull handles have been repaired a bunch of times and there is nothing left to repair. I found a set on eBay for 22.90 shipped. The old pull handles are melted on to the panels. I remember Brian1 did this repair a while ago so I will need to look up how he did that.
Edit: Found it, he ground them out with a burr. Seems the easy way to go

I have had an issue with the driver door handle for many years. I thought this might be a good time to fix it. When you open the door from the outside handle, the locking post drops, locking the door. No big deal if the window is down and/or I remember to unlock the door before closing it again. It looks like a spring holding the post up and down inside the latch assembly has failed. I really don't want to purchase and replace the entire latch assembly, especially since the three screws holding it to the door have stripped heads. Anyone ever had this happen and if so, how did you fix it?
 






Oh, the Atlas II is awesome. With the NP231, I would have it in low range, trans in 1st and still have to stand on the brakes while descending a steep grade. With the Atlas in the same scenario, I usually have the trans in 2nd with the converter locked and it slowly cruises down the grade with no brakes and a cool transmission. If its real steep and real slippery/bumpy/scary/etc., I put the trans in 1st. Going up, I put the trans gear selector in 3rd to keep it out of overdrive and just let it shift. The 3.8 was a good choice with the 700R4 transmission.

Redhead steering gear box was a great investment. Nearly all the drift I used to experience on the highway is gone. Explorer cruises down the highway at 60-70 all day long and is comfortable to drive long distances. I think that's great for a trail rig. With the new custom leaf springs, most of the sway is gone (except for slow speed right or left turns on the highway, but that's more of a lean). I think what is left is mostly the tire side walls flexing. On the trail the leaf springs are very stable, so stable that I don't mind the off-camber stuff as much. My suspension would seem too stiff to most people for a rock crawler. However, for a rock crawling, drive down the freeway for 100's of miles, expedition camping, multi-purpose off-road rig, the extra stability of a stiffer suspension that is still very flexy is just right.

I ordered a new power window motor. I think I cracked one of the screw mounts on the driver door panel pull handle so I need to pull that apart and glue it back together. I almost purchased a new regulator (track) for the window, but I will just clean/grease the OEM regulator so I don't have to mess with the glass.

Every off road trip gives me a few things to work on when I get home.

Don't ya love it when a plan comes together :chug:
 






I pulled the inner door panels off the front doors. Both of the pull handles have been repaired a bunch of times and there is nothing left to repair. I found a set on eBay for 22.90 shipped. The old pull handles are melted on to the panels. I remember Brian1 did this repair a while ago so I will need to look up how he did that.
Edit: Found it, he ground them out with a burr. Seems the easy way to go

I have had an issue with the driver door handle for many years. I thought this might be a good time to fix it. When you open the door from the outside handle, the locking post drops, locking the door. No big deal if the window is down and/or I remember to unlock the door before closing it again. It looks like a spring holding the post up and down inside the latch assembly has failed. I really don't want to purchase and replace the entire latch assembly, especially since the three screws holding it to the door have stripped heads. Anyone ever had this happen and if so, how did you fix it?


This is why I upgraded the Navajo to newer door panels. I was trying to figure out how to adapt newer switchs and repair the broken door pulls. It was easier to pull a set of newer door panels for me out of the JY, and solve the problem going forward.
 






I like my old school first gen Explorer. Besides, the door panels are all notched for the cage.
 






88 is even better, no plastic door pulls to come apart like the Gen I and the rangers up till 97 sheesh Ford!

Glad you like the red head box, it makes a world of difference in these Fords.

For the stripped screws try an impact driver screwdriver with a HUGE phillips bit that fits those screws perfectly, otherwise = strip

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Im a door doctor, whenever these trucks have a door lock or latch issue everyone seems to bring them to me. You will likely have to pull the entire drivers door master switch and rods all out, have a look at it and see what kind of mcgyver spring/ lever fixes you can come up with.
 






I'll have to pull screws out of the extra passenger side doors I have stored before I try to remove those. I was just looking at a hand impact that I found at my dad's shop. Might have to take that home.
 






I grabbed the impact driver I found in my Dad's shop, which is the same place the extra Explorer doors are stored. I pulled out the latch assembly and the actuator, along with the three screws. Getting that one out made me realize that maybe I don't want to mess with it right now. I haven't seen a 25 year old door as pristine as this one in a long time. My inner door seals are mostly duct tape at this point.
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I got the door latch assembly out this morning. Had to cut new slots into the screws, and knock on them with the hand impact to get them to loosen. Spent an hour or so trying to figure out how to make it work and ended up ordering a new one. Its a tiny little spring that has broken. I got the same spring out of the right side door latch I had, but could not get it into the left side and have no reference because that one was broken. I think its installed, then the unit is riveted together. Anyways, waiting again for the UPS dude. Ford must have had a contest to make the most complicated door latch mech in history, and some engineer won. I took a few pictures so I can hopefully get it back together.

Edit: I used some gas tank sealant on my two 5 gallon old school Blitz gas cans. I looked at the new cans, but they all suck compared to those. I'm also going to repaint them with some engine enamel because they are a little beat. I'll see how it turns out. Repaired the awning, and made it better than new. I cut off the end of the aluminum tube where it tore out the bolt holes. I sleeved all four tubes with some 1" conduit that was a near press fit. Knocked it 1.5" into each end. Then drilled out new holes in the conduit. I also got longer bolts and sleeved them so the bolts use three holes instead of two. It took a lot of the floppiness out of the frame.
 






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