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Project Vulture

Update: Drove the Vulture to work to day. Started like a champ with the new EGR charcoal canisters, vent valve, and purge valve installed (and actually connected the way they should be). Didn't hint at stalling at any time. Looks like she'll be in good order for upcoming trips.

Now, to wait for an other day off to begin the other tasks.
 



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Dropped the fuel tank, replaced the fuel pump with the new DENSO unit, and took a drive around the block to make sure that every thing is working as it should be.

It started and ran flawlessly, easy driving and hard driving. However, when shifting into reverse gear to back into my usual parking spot, it stalled and didn't want to start again. Cycled the key a few times and heard the fuel pump every time, and it would crank, but refused to start.

Not sure what the deal is with that.
 






Line came off the pump or split
Did you change the filter?
 






@donalds I had the fuel filter changed very recently (last year) and didn't figure it was a necessary measure at this time, given that the inside of the fuel tank was extremely clean, but I am aware that these components are ideally replaced together.

This morning, before work, I went out to it in exactly the same condition it was in yesterday (without investigating any thing) and turned it over and it started up first try. Left it idling for about 10 minutes (to do some thing else) without issue, but once again, when put in gear, it stalled and refused to start back up.

After work, I decided to crank it again just for funsies. Only at this time when entering the vehicle did I smell gasoline (although I cannot know if the smell might have been coming from the old charcoal canisters sitting in the truck overnight). It sputtered a bit at first, but quickly returned to crank no start.

I am inclined to suspect that your diagnosis is likely correct, there is most probably a disconnection between the fuel pump and the injectors. I will not have time to investigate until at least Monday, but when I check things out, I will update once again. Thanks for your thoughts!
 






Geeze! Check your work! Something on top of the tank is my guess
 






@410Fortune I would have thought so, but getting around the block successfully before having the issue doesn't add up there. But I did have time to drop the tank again after work to day and look at the connections, they're all clean and dry and tight.

With the tank partially lowered and every thing connected, I was able to repeatedly start the truck just fine, but it would not idle with or without throttle applied. It got dark before I finished my session, but I noticed while packing up that the keyless entry panel on the driver's door did not operate to day. It worked fine during my last session, so I am inclined to suspect that there is likely one or several loose or blown fuses or some such disconnections at the fuse panels. Dumb, shouldn't have overlooked this possibility the first time... will look into it at my nearest convenience (not likely before Thursday).
 






Got back out at it today, found 20A mini fuse #9 (fuel pump) in the distribution box blown. Whee, replaced it and it blew again after idling for a few minutes. Fortunately for me, I was underneath the vehicle when it happened this time, and observed a few things.

Firstly, the new DENSO fuel pump is LOUD. You can hear that sucker working when you're underneath the vehicle, even while the engine is running.

Secondly, I went to move the fuel tank a bit on its bracket with the engine running (since the strap is unsecured), and both heard and saw sparks on the wires behind the transfer case. Immediately afterward, the vehicle started running roughly and then stalled within ten seconds. That's when I checked 20A mini fuse #9 in the distribution box again, and found it blown again.

Suspect short to ground at location of sparks. Will clean and inspect wires and harness, and investigate further.
 






And ran it around town a bit. Stalled twice, once on shifting from Drive to Neutral, and again when idling immediately after the first stall (never shifted out of Neutral). Tried every thing I could think of to replicate the conditions that blew the fuse the other day, and again to day, and could not make the fuse blow a third time.

The first fuse was in there when I bought the truck 8 years ago. It was probably the original.

I really wanted to tear apart the intake manifold and replace the fuel injectors today, but with to day spent retracing steps from the other day, and having finished too late to get it inspected, I think I'll get it inspected in the morning before making it undriveable for an undisclosed period of time. The rest of the work can wait until after registration renewal.
 






After spending most of the day toying around with my beloved Explorer, I managed to get the intake manifold gaskets changed and the new injectors installed, had the oil changed, passed state inspection, and renewed the registration. It's been a busy day, but the Vulture lives on, and that makes it all worthwhile. I can honestly say that I do not intend to do this job again, although if my Explorers serve me as well as others' have served them, I might change my mind in an other 25 years.

The old gaskets were crushed very flat, but each came out in one piece. The Fel-Pro gaskets seemed a bit taller and narrower than the ones which were removed, I assume just because the old ones had been squished in there for so long. I'd say they were good gaskets, they hung in there for over 20 years without leaking.

There was a good bit of sludge inside the intake manifold (not altogether surprising) but the K&N intake pipe and throttle body were super clean, which tells me that nearly no gunk has been added to the internals since I installed that intake 7-ish years ago.

She choked a bit on the first startup with the new injectors, and both felt and sounded like she was running on 5 cylinders for a tiny bit, but she came through and started running like a champ after a few seconds. I probably should have primed the fuel pump a few more times before cranking.

The new fuel management components really woke her up. I've said it before, and I'll say it again... never settle for less than the best parts. They're expensive for a reason.

If all things continue as they are currently, she's in good shape for some heavy action later this year, including Uwharrie (posted in the Off-Road 4x4 Runs Planning and Discussion forum).

Drive what you love, and love what you drive. Life is too short to own a car you hate.
 






Is that the 4.0 OHV that you have?
 












@allmyEXes DemonMudder speaks the truth, it is indeed the SOHC. No timing chain rattle yet, at 197k!
 












The 4.0 SOHC is a powerhouse. Maybe lower to midrange torque than the 5.0. It's great that you have no chain rattle at 197k with conventional tensioners. multi chain servicing issue is really the only problem that I've found with them.
 






Yes if you are proactive about your chains and tensioners That engine will last a long time

I also noticed that the engine likes to be warmed up
Not just started and go

lastly i Think that changing the oil is the most important thing for this engine it will keep the tensioners clean and operating Smoothly
Which is the 1st problem that leads to all the others
 






I change the oil once a year (some times don't even put 2500 miles on her in a year) for good measure, at registration renewal time. Synthetic deteriorates sort of quickly.

I absolutely love the torque control on the SOHC + 5R55E setup. I drove a 302 + 4R70W once and really didn't care for it. Just kinda felt heavy. Might have done well towing, but it wasn't fun to drive like the SOHC's are.
 






What was blowing the fuse?

I actually own a sohc engine now and a 5r55e lol my son who turned 16 yesterday will be driving a “lightly”‘customized 98 stepside ranger I built for him lol it has a 2004 b4000 drivetrain in it…..
I’m gonna install manual tensioners in this bad boy
His grandpa gave him a jeep, a really nice low
Mile jeep… and we have been driving it for 6-8 months now while training our new driver… the jeep has proved to be unreliable (wireless start module issues, 4wabs module issues,’starter issues again, tire pressure Module will not communicate… each time a dealer visit and a thousand dollars. I actually had to fix the abs module
Myself put a used one in there for $900 after the dealer had it for 90 Days and could Not get the part) and I don’t think it’s a safe vehicle for teenager so he has agreed to drive the ranger instead ;) smart kid. We will sell the jeep and get a small car for xommuting if he proves to be a safe driver
I never owned a sohc engine before.. because I didn’t have to. Over the years repairing them I have grown to appreciate them, especially after 2002 lol lol
 






And hopefully not for a long while long fix4dirt!
Knock on wood still no rear rattle. The front cassette was MIA at 310, but everything else is all original :cool:
 






What was blowing the fuse?

I actually own a sohc engine now and a 5r55e lol my son who turned 16 yesterday will be driving a “lightly”‘customized 98 stepside ranger I built for him lol it has a 2004 b4000 drivetrain in it…..
I’m gonna install manual tensioners in this bad boy
His grandpa gave him a jeep, a really nice low
Mile jeep… and we have been driving it for 6-8 months now while training our new driver… the jeep has proved to be unreliable (wireless start module issues, 4wabs module issues,’starter issues again, tire pressure Module will not communicate… each time a dealer visit and a thousand dollars. I actually had to fix the abs module
Myself put a used one in there for $900 after the dealer had it for 90 Days and could Not get the part) and I don’t think it’s a safe vehicle for teenager so he has agreed to drive the ranger instead ;) smart kid. We will sell the jeep and get a small car for xommuting if he proves to be a safe driver
I never owned a sohc engine before.. because I didn’t have to. Over the years repairing them I have grown to appreciate them, especially after 2002 lol lol
Happy belated birthday to Baylee!
 



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@410Fortune I can't be absolutely sure that this was the issue, but based on some thing I observed while putting the fuel pump back in after dropping the tank the second time, I am inclined to believe that one of the fuel pump wires was trapped between the "lid" and the gasket, and might have somehow been shorting to ground on the lid. It's impossible to see the driver's side of the lid while the fuel tank is in place, so I don't absolutely know that was the issue, but making sure that wasn't an issue the second time seems to have resolved the blowing fuses.

After reinstalling the fuel pump (more carefully) and the fuel tank, there were no more sparks seen anywhere on the underside of the vehicle, and no more blown fuses.

Incidentally, I checked it out and the keyless entry panel does not work when fuse #9 is unplugged in the power distribution box. Not sure why those two are run on the same circuit, but OK.
 






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