5.0 2to4wd 4406 and tons

[410Fortune]

Should shift effortlessly from 2hi to 4hi just by pulling lightly on the stick

Low range stop and in neutral it should go in and out rather easily
If the drivelines get bound up sometimes I will reverse to get out of low

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Headliner is going back in, and I’m finalizing the breather for everything to get them up high

Headliner has 7 1/4-20s for the main hold downs, to replace the plastic pins. 1/4 because 11mm wrench. Installed the nutcerts with green loctite and ran some anti-seize on the threads of each. Backed by 1-1/2 fender washers, all stainless steel. All the plastic will be going back in with something similar, M6 or whatever uses a 8 or 10mm head. Need to finish clearance on the passenger rear wheel well which does leave a small hole in the body. Once that is all patched up, adding the same sound mat that is behind the headliner.

Not really understanding how the center light is supposed to work. Is it two circuits grounded through the body, one for the switches and one for the doors? They work on the switches only at the moment, and I don’t think they have ever worked. Plan is to get all this working with some either red or blue LEDs, something that won’t blow out your night vision. It’s all going to work somehow, even if I have to modify it.

Breathers are all being converted to 5/16 PTC so I can run airline. The line in there now is temporary until the air brake line shows up. All 4 will be going to a spot under the hood by the ABS module into some kind of filter. Can’t remember where the one on the transmission is, and I’m pretty sure I need to drop it down a bit to get to it, so that may be a minute.

If anyone can clue me in on this steeped center light that would be awesome.

 

[97Sandbox]

Yes, interior overhead lights ground through the body. I believe the bulbs that come one with door open are different from those controlled by the switches, so two circuits. The circuit that comes on with door open is also controlled by the dimmer switch. If your center light is the only one not working and bulbs are new, I'd suspect a bad ground.

 

[410Fortune]

The rear seat dome lamp positive also comes through a screw
There should be a wire in place on the metal substructure ready to accept the screw, this is the + feed the other screw gets the ground through the body

The rearmost cargo lamp just plugs in like you already have

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Yeah the screws are all in. I’ll grab some bulbs and a meter and get to figuring it out.

 

[Josh P]

What glue did you use for the fabric?

 

[410Fortune]

The truck has a battery saver relay, so if the doors are left open for like 3-5 minutes the lights go out… thus saving your battery
So you won’t have power for lights if the battery saver relay has already shut things down

Can make testing fun!!

Love the headliner!!

I use 3m spray adhesive when I do them, 3m products can be trusted

 

[Scotts96sploder]

What glue did you use for the fabric?

Wasn’t paying attention and bought Scotch brand 77 contact spray. You will probably want to use the 3M brand 77. The scotch brand applies more like spray paint instead of ropes, which is actually handy tight joints, but I don’t really trust it for this since you can’t really see it as it goes on almost clear. Also use actual headliner material, it’s so much easier that doing a backer underneath a custom fabric like this. Pretty sure I could have found something cooler and easier if I was more patient.

 

[Josh P]

Wasn’t paying attention and bought Scotch brand 77 contact spray. You will probably want to use the 3M brand 77. The scotch brand applies more like spray paint instead of ropes, which is actually handy tight joints, but I don’t really trust it for this since you can’t really see it as it goes on almost clear. Also use actual headliner material, it’s so much easier that doing a backer underneath a custom fabric like this. Pretty sure I could have found something cooler and easier if I was more patient.

The final result looks good.

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Ok need the diagnostic brainiacs to help me out here.
First, looks like I need to switch back to the stock gauge cluster because the CEL doesn’t work. Not that important I suppose but I would like it to work.
Anyway, trying to diagnose this intermittent idle surge, got some codes finally.
I’m going to assume two of these are because of the deleted cats and the anti-fouler didn’t work. Not a problem. What this looks like to me is either all 4 sensors I just put in don’t work, or I have some other problem. I kinda doubt the sensors are bad, I think I bought a legit brand.
Do the second gens have a similar PCM problem like the 2010 I had to put a brain box in for a similar issue?
What would you check next assuming sensors and PCM are fine?

 

[410Fortune]

Circuit failures basically the pcm
Does not see 02
Sensors

Check your wiring between pcm, trans harness, and 02 sensors… check all 02 fuses

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Circuit failures basically the pcm
Does not see 02
Sensors

Check your wiring between pcm, trans harness, and 02 sensors… check all 02 fuses

This did start after I made that hybrid transmission harness, so I bet I screwed something up. Hopefully just blew fuse 11 but I doubt I’m that lucky. Looking at the diagram, seems simple enough, so I may just have to modify that harness again. Or maybe I just pinched a wire because I don’t think the O2 stuff runs in the trans harness. Not sure, about to go look.

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Ok here’s where I’m at:
I checked sensor 2 for power, I assume the heater is supposed to get 12v and there is nothing in run.
Probably wasted my time, but I pulled my wiring harness and checked 60% of the O2 circuits. They are all individual out there where I was playing so once I verified one completely and one heater and sensor wire on the others I called it good and put it back.
Data through the PCM to the scan tool shows 0s on all circuits so I’m guessing it’s a power problem, not entirely sure how these work.
I need to know where this Lt blu/org actually gets power from, it’s not fuse 11.

 

[Scotts96sploder]

I can tell you the actual sensor circuit, at least #2 works. It jammed a test lead in the back of it and connected my licked fingers to the lead and 12v it showed 1.2 on the scan tool live data. So I just need to figure out where the power comes from.

 

[Turdle]

Page 381 in the link 2 nd post

Hego fuse under hood,
Pcm fuses interior panel

96 Explorer xlt 5.0 V8 need fuse diagram and location

I am new to ford and new to this site . I have been using this since I have gotten the X and found it very helpful on a few things. I bought from and individual and 2 days later the water pump went out.....hmmmmm. Anyway, I need to check some fuses but don't know if under the hood and side dash...

www.explorerforum.com

 

[Scotts96sploder]

First off @Turdle you are the man!
Secondly, I took a meter and checked continuity on the back of every fuse in both spots and somehow COMPLETELY MISSED THIS ONE!!!
I’ll swap it out in the morning and see if it immediately blows, if not I’ll clear the codes and head out to the beach. We’re gonna tool around in the sand and break in the front gears either way.

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Couldn’t wait, swapped it out, didn’t blow. Ran live data, all sensors working. Not much difference between any of them, so the anti-fouler may have not worked. cleared codes, idles fine, test drive went well. Thanks y’all!!

 

[410Fortune]

Excellent!!!

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Shakedown run went amazing. Thing absolutely tore up the marsh that nobody else was willing to dive in.
Only issue I really had was it goes into limp mode in 4lo. I’m thinking the shift indicator might be necessary to let the computer know why the RPM is high with the speed low. So I’m going to work on that, however; I can’t seem to be able to find those sensors new. Are they the same in the electric shift cases? If so I can find one in the yard easy.

 

[Turdle]

Does it throw a code ?

I do not have indicator wired in our 2000 , runs fine in 4 lo

Pondering this for a minute.