The Black Hole

[DemonMudder]

Yeah, kind of guessed yours was too setup for a standard alignment job on, sorry to hear man, the story is a bit funny though! I don't want to know the charge for 40s either! Hopefully they can do a decent job on it

 

[CDW6212R]

For the alignment, I wonder if you could use a camber tool for that truck. You might call this Maximum Motorsports about their tool, I think a lot of their customers do their own. It's only $60 so for that cost you have there, it might be worth a look;

Camber Gauge

 

[410Fortune]

You can do your own alignment??? Way cheaper then $250+ at the off-road shop

1/8” per side is exaggerated with larger tires I’m more like 1/16 per side or just set it at 0

I also set my camber at 0 with half tank of fuel and a driver in the seat

YouTube mechanic for the win!!

 

[gmanpaint]

1/8" in total, not per side.

When I try to dial in camber, the caster is always wrong. Lol

 

[410Fortune]

Here’s how it works
Measure the alignment before you put truck in air
Write down existing and desired
Do the math so you know what you are trying to achieve
Put truck in air
Make carefully measured adjustments on the truck when in air
Repeat until it’s perfect

It can drive you nuts trying to get it perfect, i will often take a break and come back to it later
Ifs trucks are more tricky especially the sla
I have a shop in town they do lifts, suspensions and front ends so I will take difficult ones to them, they are even $100 for front end alignment. Not very often so you find these shops anymore
He does them with tape measure similar to me he is just waaaaay better at it but I am learning. That’s $100 in my pocket everytime

I will sacrifice some caster for correct camber and toe especially with a lifted rig
Keep printout of your last professional hood alignment so you can see what they were able to achieve

 

[gmanpaint]

Have tried many times. I just don't have the patience for this sla rig. Lol

Getting it close, is the best I can do. If it was a local only lifted rig, I could live with that, but it's not. It's a cross country cruiser and hauler.

 

[gmanpaint]

Voted against purchasing new LCA'a, and will just rebuild them, for a fraction of the cost.
I Ordered a new set of Moog Bushings, & We shall see if Rockauto is affected, by the supply chain woes or not.
I will install a set of new BJ's in them, and keep the old for trail spares. Couple ideas for the skids too.

Going to wait until I have the new set of slide shaft CV's, to do that job. Might be a while, but hopefully before the first trip out this spring.

The list is getting long, with all I want to do this spring.

Another Unique Mod on the table.... 12v Electric E-brake conversion!
No more fugly failed drum E-brakes, and cables! This is the brainchild of KurtECV, and both of us are attempting to make this a reality, for the 8.8" and the 9".
This mod will get it's own thread, when it happens. It's not on the top priority list, but wanting to get it done by end of summer. If this one works as thought of, it's going to be one sweet mod.

 

[CDW6212R]

Voted against purchasing new LCA'a, and will just rebuild them, for a fraction of the cost.
I Ordered a new set of Moog Bushings, & We shall see if Rockauto is affected, by the supply chain woes or not.
I will install a set of new BJ's in them, and keep the old for trail spares. Couple ideas for the skids too.

Going to wait until I have the new set of slide shaft CV's, to do that job. Might be a while, but hopefully before the first trip out this spring.

The list is getting long, with all I want to do this spring.

Another Unique Mod on the table.... 12v Electric E-brake conversion!
No more fugly failed drum E-brakes, and cables! This is the brainchild of KurtECV, and both of us are attempting to make this a reality, for the 8.8" and the 9".
This mod will get it's own thread, when it happens. It's not on the top priority list, but wanting to get it done by end of summer. If this one works as thought of, it's going to be one sweet mod.

What kind of change are you talking about the the parking brakes? I had the idea of trying to adapt the late model system such as the Fusion has. I don't really need it now, but the idea was for my work truck. I cannot reach the parking brake from the right seat, so I wanted a button like late Fords have to engage the parking brake. I'd like to see that done, which could be installed on a lot of older Fords.

 

[gmanpaint]

Complete stock mechanical E-brake delete.
It will be a push button, all electric smart system, with Zero battery drain when engaged. It's not a Ford system.
When it's time for the new thread on it, I will link it here. That's all I can say for now.

 

[410Fortune]

Rockauto shipping has not changed in the last 2+ Years every part they said they had in stock that I have order has arrived when they said it would for the most part. There was one package in 2021 that took over a week when it was expected in days… no biggie, no issues just fyi
Rockauto loves me

Your electric e brake news makes me happy. I hate the stock cable setup

Good read about driveline brakes

E-Brake Calipers vs. Driveline Brakes - Pros and Cons | Lugnut4x4

Wondering How You'll Configure Your E- Brake After A Rear Drum-To-Disc Brake Conversion? This Article Will Review The Options.

lugnut4x4.com

 

[gmanpaint]

Went to the salvage yard for Misc stuff, and grabbed a new set of cowl trims. The rubber glass seal on one side had come unglued a bit, and curled up the window. Drove me nuts to see that, so....

Cleaned them up, and shot them with a few coats of clear. Very wet in the pic below.

cleaned and painted the wiper arms too.

Ahhh...... Much better now.

 

[donalds]

Nice looks great

 

[gmanpaint]

Been working 6 days a week, extra long hours lately. Been wanting to get something done to the rig, but just haven't been able.

Well this morning I decided to get a headache job started, knowing I couldn't finish it by end of day. Put the front on stands, and removed the Dr side LCA, to install the new bushings, and ball joint. Wrapped the CV end because we have a weeks worth of rain starting in the morning. I really dislike leaving the rig on stands that long, but it is what it is.

Ball joint came out easily with the BJ clamp. Front bushing was half way out, and was able to remove it by hand. OOOF! The rear bushing is where it got fugly.
The rubber bushing was destroyed.

When the BJ clamp was used, it just pushed the bolt sleeve out (was a little fight). I tried again using a socket to push the bushing out. Nope, just got the rubber out, and the bushing is frozen in place. I gave up trying to push the casing out. I'm just going to have to cut it out, a bit at a time.

Front side is good to go.

Will work on this arm when I can this coming week, and hopefully get it back on next Sunday. Then start the other side. Yep, a month of Sundays, for 4 new bushings, and 2 new BJ's. LOL
OK, now this had me thinking as to why these failed. Is it because they are just old, and they failed like normal after 27 years of use, OR was it old age, and the pressures created by 12 years of coil lift forces? These Coilovers are not straight, they angle to the rear at the bottoms. I use a longer than intended coil for lift reasons. Lots and lots of tension like that. Dunno, but if I get another 12 years, I'm good with it. Best part is I found the mystery clunk!

 

[410Fortune]

Make sure they are torqued after the vehicle is sitting at ride height, otherwise the bushings can tear!!

We have used a torch in the past to get the old bushings out… but I hate that smell and the mess

 

[gmanpaint]

Make sure they are torqued after the vehicle is sitting at ride height, otherwise the bushings can tear!!

We have used a torch in the past to get the old bushings out… but I hate that smell and the mess

I will torque for sure.

Rubber is out, just the bushing casing remains.

I had an idea this morning. Might weld in a round pc of flat stock inside it. Then attack it again with the ball joint clamp.

Another thought was I'm sure hitting rocks while wheeling, stopping the rig dead in its tracks helped cause pushing the arm back. So now I'm thinking of welding on some type of roll over assist skids to them.

 

[donalds]

I used a hacksaw
I put the blade through the eye then put it back on my hacksaw
Worked great

 

[Turdle]

I like Donald's idea. Once you get a groove cut the sleeve will collapse. Glad you are getting it done! That bushing hung in there for a good while though

 

[gmanpaint]

Donald's idea is a good one. Will give it a try. Thanks!!

 

[gmanpaint]

Bushing case is out. Used a sawzall for the meaty cut, then finished it off with the hacksaw.

Got an idea for the skids. Won't be plate.

 

[gmanpaint]

I ran with my idea for skids on the LCA's. I seen why adding plate to these was a nightmare. The front and back walls are different heights, they're angled, and tapered differently. Nothing symmetrical about them!

So.... I had about 16 LF of schedule 80 1" pipe, and put it to use.

The whole point of this mod, is to simply get the front edge to go up and over rocks, Then slide over without catching the back lip or turtle on top.
I got one side welded up tonight. Tomorrow is paint and rebuild.

I have 4 bolts to get nuts on for the coil over brackets, and then the limit strap stud nut underneath. With this setup, all of them are easy to get too.
Can only go so far outward on these as the knuckle swings and bumps them near the LBJ. Inward is the hex hole that extrudes.

A thorough cleaning in the morning, and air dry until lunch, then paint. Should be good to install the BJ, and Bushings after work. I'm happy with it.