The Black Hole

[gmanpaint]

LCA painted and rebuilt with new MOOG bushings, Mevotech LBJ, and new grade 8 hardware.

Have a concern tho. No matter what I did, I couldn't get the rear bushing fully seated. Even the Earthquake impact wouldn't press it in any further. I thought the Ball joint clamp was going to break in half I was putting so much force to it. I even used a 5 lb maul, and brought the thunder on it. Nope, not moving. I filed off the new paint to raw steel inside the holes too. Used some lube as well. WTH man! I checked the old bushing pics, and it's about the same.

I measured the gap on the frame to check the width, and then test fitted it. It's snug, but it will go on with a couple love taps. I'm just not sure if this is going to Chooch or not. To me, it should go all the way in, and sit flush with the arm. Should I let it ride, and install it, or should I take it in somewhere and ask to have it pressed on better?

What say you guys?

Front bushing went all the way flush.

New stuffs, and you can see the gap on that rear bushing better. Kind of concerned about it, but also not that much because the old one was froze solid, in about the same spot. Head scratcher!! What to do, what to do?

 

[traveler]

I like the reinforcers and mini "sliders" you put in there. I'm definitely going to have to copy that when next I have the LCAs out.

 

[CDW6212R]

That LCA bushing should be fine, I have noticed that before on several that I have installed. I also recalled worrying about that when I had my old 91 Lincoln LCA's re-bushed. I paid to have them and the BJ installed($50), I stopped doing CA bushings in the 80's.

I did a set for my 72 Gran Torino at work using their strong press, and the proper safety tools, including a large pipe placed underneath to catch the old bushing. The catch pipe had a small hole cut into it so you could reach in with a hand to remove the parts or bits. Anyway, one of the bushings came out so hard and fast it bounced around in the catch pocket(pipe), and it flew out the hole at high speed. It didn't hit me, but it was a blur going by. I decided that's a dangerous enough task to pay to get it done, or buy new CA's if possible.

 

[gmanpaint]

I used a bigger Hammer and got that rear bushing set further in. Putting it back on was a fight that lasted a few hours. had to use the Jaws of life on the ears, a pry bar, and the kitchen sink, but it's back on, and buttoned back up. One side done! LOL


Before I tackle the other side, I am going to try to figure out why the fuel gauge and the trip OD stopped working. Both are different circuits I believe, but both stopped at the same time. Might be the cluster board broke, the pods themselves, or some other unknown demon. The OD never worked when it came back from that engine swap fiasco, but the trip OD did. The fuel gauge wasn't working either at that time, but that was because of a broken wire on the pump, which was replaced. Only place I know where to start is taking the cluster out, and having a look see. (Yes... the fuses was checked. lol)

The frame needs some paint work, but needs an under carriage wash first. That pesky rear main seal leak might be getting worse too. Ugh....

 

[Turdle]

There is a worm gear to fix the odometer motor drive, however, since there are many cluster functions wacked, I say check all fuses. There are several for the cluster.

Good job on the control arms and bushings, I wouldn't even attempt that.

 

[gmanpaint]

There is a worm gear to fix the odometer motor drive, however, since there are many cluster functions wacked, I say check all fuses. There are several for the cluster.

Good job on the control arms and bushings, I wouldn't even attempt that.

All fuses checked and all are good. Was the first thing I did when it happened, and been in the box many times since, for other gremlins that keep popping up. The Fuel Ga stopped working on our last trip out to Moab in 2021, and the OD stopped working on the way back from there. Had to use the GPS to count miles to figure fuel stops. PITA. Rig hasn't been used much since that trip, only local stuff.


Thanks for the kudos! It was a job, with all the extra doo dads associated with them. I set the coils exactly where they was before I removed them from the arms. Hoping the alignment is still good. Test will be over the weekend to see how I did.

 

[410Fortune]

So the truck must know you are moving at at speed since you do not have a CEL and P0500 code
So the VSS signal is getting through to the pcm
It may be a physical issue with the ODO itself
curious to hear what you find, odd the fuel level is not working same time

 

[gmanpaint]

Yep. Speedo works just fine, but it runs off the atlas. Reason I want to take the cluster out, and see if the gear is messed up. I'm not sure if the OD uses the rear diff tone ring signal. Need to read up and relearn that.

 

[410Fortune]

95 your cluster uses the VSS in the t case
in 98 they went to the single rear axle vss
Your VSS is working, PCM is happy or you would know it with a P0500 code and it would run/shift weird

 

[gmanpaint]

True, but this rig doesn't follow the stock guidelines anymore. Lol

It has been converted to obd2 under the hood, with 98 components with the 302 swap.

The body side was not changed up much for that conversion, just a few circuits changed.

The atlas kept the mechanical to pulse vss like the 95 had. But the 95 also had the abs tone ring sensor.

What I don't know is if the pcm was changed up when it was flashed, to use the abs sensor for the od or not.

Nothing has been, or ever will be simple with this rig. Lol

 

[410Fortune]

lucky for your the PCM has really nothing to do with the VSS, except it needs the signal too, to see that you are moving and how fast so it can command shifts. The PCM is an "end user" of the VSS signal, it receives the signal it does not create it

Meaning all the VSS signal "buffering" is done by a gem module or ABS computer in 98+ that lost the vss sensor...Ill explain

the 5.0 pcm all years 96-01 just needs to see the 8000 pulses per mile, same as your cluster, cruise control, and other systems on board.

So basically way back in the day speedos were driven by a gear on the output shaft via a cable. 8000 revolutions per mile is how you dial them in for tire and gear changes. 8000 pulses or rpm at the speedometer odo = 1 mile
91-94 explorer no different, vss in output shaft, cable to run speedometer. However they added the electronic sensor for the cruise control, engine computer shift on fly, etc...still reading 8000 pulses per mile.
Then 95 comes along and bye bye goes the cable, now we use an electronic speedometer and odo, still getting 8000 pulses per mile via the electronic vss sensor on the output shaft. The RABS and 4WABS system however now have their own wheel speed sensors.
98 comes along and bye bye goes the VSS completely! Instead we are just going to use the tone ring in the rear axle (rear wheel speed sensor) which makes way more then 8000 pulses per mile.....
on those trucks the ABS computer OR the GEM module were the ones that take the pulses per mile from the rear tone ring and use math (buffering) to reduce the signal down to the 8000ppm the speedo, pcm, cruise, and esof want to see.

so at the end of the day the PCM just wants to see the 8000ppm, you are still feeding it using the 95 style vss, works perfectly!
If you did not have the vss because the t case did not have one....well then you would need the Dakota digital device so it can use ANY WHEEL SPEED OR OUTPUT SENSOR and do the math for us
or as some others have done they wire in a gem module from a rwd ranger to do the math, even piggybacking two gem modules!! in effort to keep the truck happy?? no thanks.
I simply use a Dakota speedo interface (or similar) on those trucks, these days they are even GPS enabled so you don't have to do any math LOL

Hope that helps clear it up so you guys know how if and why the VSS sensor works and when it is needed

 

[CDW6212R]

How large is the Dakota Digital device, and does it have just four wires and is used just for the VSS? I have two of the old original speed re-calibration devices, one in my 91 Lincoln and one spare stored away. Those only alter the speed signal, they were made before the mid 90's.

What features does the GPS provide with those latest Dakota Digital models? I'm going to need a VSS device for each of my Ranchero's, with 4R's, those are more simple, cable driven speedo. I'll just need two 2WD output shafts and housings for those. My 92 Lincoln I can aim for more things.

 

[410Fortune]

Dakota device is about 4" long, 2" wide, .5" tall

It has many wiring abilities, and it can also be used to adjust tachometer signals

It can use the signal from ANY speed sensor and convert that number to any output (ford wants 8000 ppm)

Here is a detailed installation thread

Ford Ranger forum

The Premiere Site For Ford Ranger Enthusiasts

ford-rangers.com

the newer Dakota devices (and other brands) are GPS enabled, so you do not even need a speed sensor input

the dakota device is also bluetooth enabled so you can dial in your speed accuracy as you drive. It has + and - buttons so you can dial it in without bluetooth as well

 

[gmanpaint]

This 95 rig has the GEM, and why I refer to it as OBD1.5 stock. 2 wire engine, and 3 wire trans, plus other OBDII functions.
For the purist out there, yes I know there was never an official 1.5, and it's just a generic term I use to describe this ******* transition year.
No Other Explorer had this setup. Add a 98 302 swap, ABS Delete, and an Atlas case, and it gets even more confusing. Nothing was done to the GEM for the OBDII conversion I was told.

The 95 -97.5 4405 T-case had the VSS. It is a digital pulse signal, unlike the prior cable VSS versions. The ABS used the speed senor in the rear axle housing.
Like mentioned, the Speedo works just fine, it was using the Nevada Speedo pulse conversion adapter on the Atlas cable speed gear cable with the 4.0 setup, but has been removed for the 5.0 trans. Now it just uses the rear sensor.

For a while the Trip OD kept working, while the OD wasn't. This caused me some confusion as to why, thinking that the gear in the cluster pod was still good. I figured it had to be something else, like in the circuits/pcm from the 302 swap conversion. With the speedo working and using the rear sensor, and the OD not working, only left me wondering if it was mechanical or electrical, and thus the want to open up the cluster and inspect for any obvious issues with the gear.
If the gear is found to be in proper order, then it comes down to circuit paths.

I will remove the rear axle sensor and inspect for metal shavings on it. The ARB was installed prior to all this happening, but the gear oil swap after 500 miles was relatively clean.

Yesterday the rig was taken on a 50 mile HWY run. The fuel GA needle was just under full, but not trusting it, I put fuel in it. It only took 4 gals, and the needle moved to full. No idea why it is working now. No idea why it had stopped before either. This rig is haunted I think.


The alignment was off. Steering wheel is turned a few degrees even tho nothing was done with the TRE when working on the LCA's. Going to have to get the other side done so I can get an alignment done on it. Always Something!

Oh, and I found out that the Hi Lift brand jack handle keeper block, doesn't last more than 5-6 years. It rotted and broke in half, causing the jack handle to flop up and down at 70 MPH.

 

[410Fortune]

the gem module is just a body computer, it handles the rear wiper, cargo/dome lights, it is the 4wd control module, and other things. But it does not need any mods to accept the OBD2 pcm and drivetrain

The 5.0 PCM and drivetrain is basically a stand alone unit, I can make one run on a stand quite easily

the hi lift parts are not that great, we run the neoprene zip up covers and the rubber handle holders.... they do not last long exposed to sunlight and weather. ended up removing the handle and putting it in the truck. I also coat the neoprene cover with coverall/UV protection every summer

 

[DemonMudder]

No idea why it is working now. No idea why it had stopped before either. This rig is haunted I think.

Not haunted, shes just showing her personality, being moody for ya

Honestly I'm not sure; wasn't working before, now is, maybe a loose connection somewhere? Just happened to bump it back in at some point?

 

[gmanpaint]

Not haunted, shes just showing her personality, being moody for ya

Honestly I'm not sure; wasn't working before, now is, maybe a loose connection somewhere? Just happened to bump it back in at some point?

No idea. I have a new headliner to install soon. When the interior is gutted, I will open the up the cover I installed on the floor for pump access and have a look at the wiring. Tree rats ate away at the wiring on the other explorer a couple years ago, so they might have got to this one too. Who knows. Lol

I don't expect to find anything wrong with the rear sensor as the speedo still works, but again, never know.

410, I used those neoprene covers in the past, but they only lasted a year or 2 before disintegrating on me. Good tip on the uv stuff. I have a bunch of it leftover from the RTT job. Might buy another, and give it that treatment.

 

[DemonMudder]

Man, I hate them suckers, tree rats always getting into everything. We were out camping once found one inside my moms truck, literally inside it, the window was barely cracked. Hopefully I'm wrong, wiring is always a mess. If it's just loose, shouldn't be bad, but if they ate at the cables....wish ya luck man

 

[Fix4Dirt]

This 95 rig has the GEM, and why I refer to it as OBD1.5 stock. 2 wire engine, and 3 wire trans, plus other OBDII functions.
For the purist out there, yes I know there was never an official 1.5, and it's just a generic term I use to describe this ******* transition year.
No Other Explorer had this setup. Add a 98 302 swap, ABS Delete, and an Atlas case, and it gets even more confusing. Nothing was done to the GEM for the OBDII conversion I was told.

The 95 -97.5 4405 T-case had the VSS. It is a digital pulse signal, unlike the prior cable VSS versions. The ABS used the speed senor in the rear axle housing.
Like mentioned, the Speedo works just fine, it was using the Nevada Speedo pulse conversion adapter on the Atlas cable speed gear cable with the 4.0 setup, but has been removed for the 5.0 trans. Now it just uses the rear sensor.

For a while the Trip OD kept working, while the OD wasn't. This caused me some confusion as to why, thinking that the gear in the cluster pod was still good. I figured it had to be something else, like in the circuits/pcm from the 302 swap conversion. With the speedo working and using the rear sensor, and the OD not working, only left me wondering if it was mechanical or electrical, and thus the want to open up the cluster and inspect for any obvious issues with the gear.
If the gear is found to be in proper order, then it comes down to circuit paths.

I will remove the rear axle sensor and inspect for metal shavings on it. The ARB was installed prior to all this happening, but the gear oil swap after 500 miles was relatively clean.

Yesterday the rig was taken on a 50 mile HWY run. The fuel GA needle was just under full, but not trusting it, I put fuel in it. It only took 4 gals, and the needle moved to full. No idea why it is working now. No idea why it had stopped before either. This rig is haunted I think.


The alignment was off. Steering wheel is turned a few degrees even tho nothing was done with the TRE when working on the LCA's. Going to have to get the other side done so I can get an alignment done on it. Always Something!

Oh, and I found out that the Hi Lift brand jack handle keeper block, doesn't last more than 5-6 years. It rotted and broke in half, causing the jack handle to flop up and down at 70 MPH.

as demonmudder said, it aint haunted!!! just givin ya a good kickin in the rear every once in a while! or.... did ya get a dodge? then i could see it misbehaving! or a chevy? "that chevy 4x4 says it all, sittin in my place"

 

[gmanpaint]

Demon, If you read this entire thread, you might change your mind, and question the haunting. Lol

410, thanks for all the info as well.